I have the 53-56 f100 backing plates and hubs on my Speedway spindles. it seems there is a gap between the hub and spindle, about 1/4 inch. Does this look normal? the stock drums have a gap between the backing plate also. Thoughts?
If you got the spindles from Speedway they are the 37-48 style,and will be fine.Theres a special inner bearing to make it work.If its really the model A spindle they are longer than the later spindle.I have seen guys do this with the earlier spindle so it must be ok.
Isn't this because the later bearings have a different radius on the innermost edge that requires some grinding to allow it to go fully onto the spindle? I could be mistaken however. Chris
I believe that's right, I did a set several years ago and remember grinding the inner edge of the bearing to get it to fit the spindle. Was about ten years ago and don't remember the bearing number I used.
If you have access to a lathe and a competent machinist, just machine the spindle radius to match the new bearing radius.
The correct inner bearing is a 14116 Timken.I wrapped the bearing in plastic,and duct tape then radiused the inner edge of the inner race to round it with a dremel.It allowed the bearing to seat completely on the spindle base.Clean the bearing real good in solvent to get any grit out.
Grind the bearing race, spindle fillet radius is critical for integrity. German engines that broke crankshafts all broke at the fillet line of crankpins (journals) where they met counterweights. These hundreds of broken crankshafts had all been turned undersize, (.010-.030) no standard crankshafts had any breakage. These were all VWs and 356 Porsches. Use this info defensively. I rely on it.
Grinding a radius on the bearing is normally correct but I think it does not apply with the early spindles. The seal surface is different on Model A through ‘36 spindles and that is why there is that gap in the photos seen in the original post. If you add the seal surface/bearing spacers from an early Ford hydraulic brake adapter kit I think the bearings will not need the relief ground in. There is a fillet on your Model A axle stub and that is all that is needed for protection against fracture. The spacer has a relief machined in to clear the factory fillet and your bearing will just bump against a flat on the outside of the spacer. The spacer covers the fillet, but it is still there. Pretty bad picture, I should have cleaned that ‘32 spindle, but you can see the difference in the seal area, there is no large diameter on the early spindles.
@Nos1partstore You may want to revise the title of this thread, as it is misleading. If you are using Speedway spindles, they are different than the Model A versions.
Good point @Malcolm, you are correct. In reading the post again I see he used Speedway spindles and one is seen in the photos.
If someone looks at this thread in the future and actually has Model A spindles and F series brakes. Need to knock the stock Model A grease seal off the spindle, use the centering ring and the bearing spacer from a "juice" brake adapter kit, and there is no need to radius the 14116 bearing in this case.
Thanks, Fordors Malcom and Rich B! Clarity now abounds. I wasn't aware of a radius difference on Speedway spindles...Very important info!
It may have been me that muddied the waters Mike, my comments were valid only if using ‘37 and later hubs on the early spindles. I read the heading on the original post and thought the OP was putting brakes on his Model A spindles. If I had read the full post I would have seen that he has Speedway spindles and those are a functional duplicate of ‘37-‘41 Ford spindles.
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