I have to clear the wood bed on a 1929 Ford pickup tomorrow and am not sure what sealer to use. I want to keep the wood the same color as it already is, so I do not want to get a stain. but I am sure I need an exterior type. please recommend a good wood sealer that will be clear and transparent as I am only trying to seal the wood and not stain or change color in any way. Thank you.
I sprayed 6 coats of clear Verathane on my bed wood about 17 years ago. It has gotten wet, but it still looks exactly like the day I sprayed it. I used gloss, but it also comes in satin finish.
I used Minwax Helmsman Spar, it’s a marine grade polyurethane formulated to withstand the elements. There’s 20+ coats of satin clear sanded every 2 coats, with proper care it should last for decades...
Hello, I agree with Dean, Varathane is very strong and virtually weather/water/liquid proof. When our son was a little toddler, we had an old antique, folding high chair. At first, it was given a single coat of Varathane and did well. But when the spoons, forks and other things that go boom, on the wooden surface began to chip the single coat, I took it all off and started over. But, unlike Dean's 6 coats of Varathane, I put on only 3 coats. Each coat supplied another layer of protection. If the eating episode got overly wild, then it went outside for a power hose spray to get all food particles off of the sealed oak high chair. I have been using Varathane ever since on all projects for looks and protection, it seals and protects most anything. Jnaki The chair does not get much used these days, but is resting comfortably in my wife's sister's house. It goes with her decorating better than our current style. It still looks as good as the Varathane coated product from a long time ago. Here is a synopsis of the episode (Choices, too...)and a link to that thread. ↑ I'm working on my 37 Ford Pickup and am ready to stain and seal the red oak planks for the bed. I've fitted everything, still gotta sand the wood, then stain. My question is what is the best sealer to use once I stain it. Any help is appreciated. Hey Clips, There was a similar plank wood thread back in April. There are also many ways to seal and finish wood. The choice is obviously yours and small cans of each choice can be used for experiments. Here is my answer to the wood in the bed thread... Hello, I agree with Los_Control in his explanation of the Sikkens product. I have used that product on Teak with great results in outdoor weather. I have also used Varathane on a folding, oak high chair for my son's first eating area back in the 70’s. After three coats on the drop down tray, it was indestructible. He could bang the surface with his spoon and fork and the surface coating had no scratches or dents. I remembered that my neighbor said to make sure every inch of every nook and cranny was covered with the stuff. If not, one small area allows liquids to get in and start a destructive process underneath the hard surface. Over a 4 year period, no resurfacing was necessary, but it developed a slight dull surface coat. not for outdoor rolling/pushing around, there is very little grip with the steel wheels. but for standing up in the kitchen/dining area, the wood legs prop up the wheels off of the floor. I have also used this stuff called Epiphanes for some Teak boards. It looked tremendous after 4 coats with light sanding between. But, as nice as that stuff looked, one bump against a counter corner made small scratches that were hard to get out and had to be resurfaced again. If I were going to showcase the planks in the bed of a pickup, this would be the stuff…it shines, and looks fabulous. But, it just will not hold up to the normal usage of a pick up bed, or for that matter, any surface that will get bumps or bruises. But for a car show…it looks outstanding when applied correctly. The same neighbor used spar marine varnish on several products that were going to sit outside in the weather. The sun did not do much, but a slight hairline crack developed and water got inside…it looked like a developing milky spot, then grew an inch or two before my neighbor sanded it all off to start over again. That is not my cup of tea for wood maintenance. Plus, it can start flaking off, making it necessary to re-do the whole thing again. Jnaki So, as nice as varnish, polyurethane and Epiphanes are, it takes a lot of work to maintain a great looking piece of wood. Oil on the other hand can be lightly sanded and re-oiled again and again. Sometimes, sanding is not necessary on these products, but just a soft foam brush allowing the grain to soak up the oil. (minutes instead of hours) Taking out each piece of wood in the pickup bed for a 100% thorough coating is standard procedure, but beware of the dents & scratches in any hard surface besides that oil compound. Try out a few small cans of the different stuff mentioned. You will see which result looks good for your application. But as the old saying goes…yrmv…as well as your choice/opinion. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/truck-wood-bed-wood-sealer.1021705/page-2#post-12096603
As long as it is a Spar urethane it will hold up for many years, the urethane's are designed for exterior wood, Marine grade is basically the same as Minwax (name brand) urethane, stay away from the water base types of finishes. HRP
I have friend that used automotive clear urathane on the wood in his model A pickup, he sanded and recleared it a few times and it looks great.
I like to use just plain old linseed oil. It protects the wood and leaves a natural finish, no plasticky coating. I guess it depends on the look you're after.
A good way to go for a sealer is to simply thin down the finish coat. Make it watery thin and apply it to the wood. The thinned finish coat will soak deep into the wood that way. I keep applying it until the wood won't soak up any more. Let that dry then apply the top finish coat. Sealing it this way really helps to strengthen the wood also, by deeply infusing the fibers with plastic.
what do you all think of Thompsons Water Sealer? I was thinking of putting that on a rag and rubbing it into the wood. it seems to be a clear sealer.
I don't like linseed oil for anything other than maybe an old piece of furniture. Linseed oil never dries completely and gums up instead of drying.
Some of the best spar varnish is Rust-Oleum Marine and McCloskey Man-O-War. Thin it super thin and use it as a sealer, allowing it to soak into the wood until no more will soak in. Then use it for the top coat without thinning it.
The finish that is on there now looks to be a on top of the wood sealer. If so, you may not get a thinned finish to sink into the wood.
I have to keep the wood stakes on the bed, I guess I am going to have to tape off the bed and either rub or spray the wood. my plan is to pressure wash off the bed, dry it with a leaf blower, then apply the sealant with a rag. thought
Boiled Linseed Oil works well and is cheap and easy to apply and re apply down the road. Cut your first coat w a little mineral spirits to help really penetrate the grain. Wipe it on thick let it set overnight, wipe off the excess oil on top and repeat a few times with just the BLO and your good to go. Its a simple finish and doesnt have a "clear coat" look like a urethane or automotive clear does. It Just looks like a fresh cut piece of wood when your done.If you get any on your paint it should wipe off easy. Far less time involved than any other process in my mind. Sent from my SM-J727T1 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've used linseed oil on many wood projects, from wooden fences, & gates, to the wood in the back of my A pickup, to guitar necks and bodies, and other projects. The advice that it doesn't dry is not correct. Apply it properly and that is not a problem.
Here is the finished results of the 1929 Ford Model A bed rail's I sealed. I used Thompsons Water Seal and it worked great. my client was very happy with the outcome.
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