Technical Clutch Setup - 4 speed conversion on 57 Chevy

yep

 

TimCT. I sent you a PM about the 57 Chevy clutch linkage parts I have for sale.

 

If you are using the 57 clutch linkage, you'll need a 57 - 60 clutch fork. It uses a pin where the clutch rod attaches to the fork. The clutch fork in the photo is a later style.

 

Yup, I got one, will swap it out this weekend and hopefully get everything mocked up.

 

Swapped out the clutch forks, but I'm not wild about the adjustable pivot ball's fit into the trifive clutch fork.

I pulled it all down, then put the new clutch fork onto the pivot ball. It didn't seem to engage real positively, but I soldiered on anyway. Pried on the fork while turning the output shaft, and the clutch disengaged. Felt like I was good to go. Bolted the bell back up to the block and slid the trans in, and apparently the act of wiggling the trans into the bell was enough to disengage the clutch fork from the ball, slipped off just enough for the TO bearing to bind on the shaft instead of slide. I was able to give it a yank and re-engage it, and went on my way.

Fast forward a few hours, and the engine and trans are now in the car, and apparently the fork has slipped off the ball again. Now I'm worried that this is going to be a regular occurrence. The adjustable ball has a flat ground on the top, its not rounded all the way around. I'm thinking about ditching the adjustable ball and getting an OE style replacement in the hopes the fork will stay put on the ball.

 

you didn't happen to take some pics of the fork, where it fits onto the ball, did you? could be it has some issues....

 

Of course I didn't, that would have been the smart thing. I need to crawl back under anyway, I'll see what I can do for pics. The spring clip didn't fit particularly well around the back side of the ball, the opening for the clip was too wide for the ball and the ball wasn't snug in there.

 

I wonder if it's just bent, or if it's a repop part that was made wrong, or like you say the aftermarket ball is the wrong size/shape?

 

The spring clip seemed to be bent somewhat - one side of it sat higher than the other when the ball was fully into the fork. I'm kinda leaning towards the OE style stuff just not playing well with the aftermarket stuff. When I yanked the fork back onto the ball, I actually pulled it TOO far, and the ball slid out of the fork to the inboard side. That sorta tells me that the shape of the ball isn't a real good fit for the fork.

 

You need to pop the fork onto the bellhousing on the bench. Make sure the ball is all the way seated in the fork, take a good look at it before moving on.

 

It all seemed good on the bench (floor) and I thought when it popped off the first time that I probably didn't have it seated all the way the first time, and double and triple checked the second time, when the trans was bolted up, but I guess I was wrong.

 

there was a different style of clutch fork that was forged, not stamped, and had a strange circular clip in it...that's the type that you need to press onto the ball, with the bellhousing on the floor. Those clips break, too. That type fork was used through 54 I think, and also on the 6 cyl cars and pickups for a while longer.

 

The Fork Jim describes was used until 59. then the trucks go a cast fork with the retaining clip Jim described. They stay in place. However on my 55 wagon I use the stock fork that was in the 235 six cyl bell and haven't had any problem at all. Ive also used a 55 thru 59 six fork in a V8 truck bell without any troubles. Possibly the ball in your scattershield is the problem? Can you swap it for a stock GM one?

 

If the t/o brg. is on the trans shaft correctly, the fork will not go inboard enough to come off of the ball I don't think. Peek in there and see if the t/o brg is still where it should be or if it is forward or aft of the fork. D

 

Check your pilot bushing for that one half inch intraney problem






Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I'm thinking that is my next step, toss out the fancy aftermarket crap and get a stock replacement. Funny how I ended up with that one to try to eliminate any issues I might have down the road, and it turns out to be a (potential) problem itself.

 

I would think the same thing, that just by virtue of the fact that the TO bearing is on the front bearing retainer, there shouldn't be enough slop to allow it to move that much. I'll check that too.

 

Exactly!

Pat

 

I might be coming in on this a little too late, but Danchuck offers a kit that has all of the components to set this up correctly, the 57 part number is 15899A, it's a bit pricey @ $599.95, but it does have all heim rod ends and a fully splined pedal shaft instead of a partial spline among other upgrades. I also agree with Southcross2631, there are two indentations in the frame for the pivot points for both the manual Z bar, and the column shift linkage, which you can see in the first picture below, most frames have both in place, I took my column linkage pivot out just to clear the area. The Danchuck kit has the same idea as I see you were doing with the flat bar bolting up to the Lakewood bellhousing, but it is longer with no pre drilled hole, giving you a choice on where to put the pivot on the engine side in case you moved it back some as I remember. I Hope this helps, seems like you already have things moving though.

 

Just adding further info for OP. All three years had their own parts from under the dash to all the way out to the trans. Some crossed over and some will not. 55 set up is really one off (light duty as compared to the next two years). Getting all three years of parts and assuming they'll work together leads to frustration as there is also some geometry changes as well. Don't ask how I know.

 

Thanks for the heads up @Johnny Gee . I think everything I have is '57 only - the pivot balls in '57 are bigger than 55 and 56, right? I think?

 

For the bellcrank yes. 56 and 57 are the same size.

 

I'm using a '55 Chevy belhousing in my car with the forged fork. The truck retaining clips work well with it, it may even be a truck fork. I've had it for years. I got clips local and did I get clipped at $9 per. Online they go for under $2.

 

Just putting this up. Tri-Five style.

 

for reference--1950s Truck fork

 

Thats the one that I got - Danchuk #342.

 

I have the truck fork on mine.

 

I'm pretty sure that's a 60-72 Chevy/GMC pickup truck fork. ...

 

Did they use that with the hydraulic clutch in 60-62? I forget. But it was used from 63-72 for sure.