Technical 38 ford front suspension positioning?

Ok thanks , I just thought that if I was extending the frame then I would need to extend the wishbones, but I’m loving all this info , as I said first build so don’t know that much, and thanks for the info on the preferred steering box for my size of vehicle.

 

Agreed with above, just extend the frame right behind the front cross member as this gives you a nice somewhat straight section to play with.

Just move the bones mount forward which should be real easy to do, maybe just build a little box/mount off the frame rails to mount bones too.

Also agree with changing out to the bigger gear, and it shouldn't be a problem to move up here gear forward.

Once you splice the rails just run a nice little fish plate to the inside of the rails for strength. Finish the outside of the rails and if you do it right no one will know you lengthened it

 

Looking at the pictures of the front of the frame it seems to me it would be easier to cut the rivets on the front cross member and move it forward the 5 1/2".

 

What if you took the front suspension from a spring in front of axle, 46 Ford for instance, and turned it around so it was axle in front of spring?

 

Send a decent picture of a side view with the wheel straight ahead to the photo shop thread and let them do their magic with the fender before you mess with the front suspension.

 

While I don’t know the specific amount of change that would make it also requires cutting the split ‘bones off the axle and fabbing something to connect them back on the axle. Then there is the loss of correct Ackerman, so the spindles have to be switched side to side. The simple way is new frame mounts for the ‘bones as suggested before.

 

Since that is a double frame up front; I'd cut it, then trim the outer frame back an inch or two on each side, bend up and weld in the longer inner piece, then bend up and add the outer piece. Overlap frame stretch is the right way.

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As you're in the UK you might want to keep in mind any issues that chassis modifications might have on the registration status, whether already registered or not. Stock looking and undetectable welds etc would help if you're going that route.

Chris

 

Thanks for that , the truck has already been registered and I have my v5 , I wanted to make sure I had this before I started my build, had to wait almost 4 months for everything to come through and get sorted.

 

Thanks to everyone that has commented on this thread , has set me up with what I’m going to do and I have focus now. Extending the frame Is the route I’m going to go down and will be updating my build thread when work starts. Happy building everyone

Cheers , Benedict

 

If you make a measured center punch mark on each side of your cut line; you can use them as reference to keep both sides equal; lot easier than measuring bolt holes or other points.

 

Simplest and strongest: Move front crossmember forward appropriately...looks like minor trimming of bottom would be the maximum hacking, and maybe not even that. Hold it in place with vise grips (Mole grips in English??) until it eyeballs right in wheel opening visually, drill and rivet...pay attention to level angle spring perch area.
Do not cut radius rods...those are potentially subjected to more violence than you want to know about if you hit a pot hole or rail track at speed.
The general location of ball will be dictated by axle. You need to get height of ball right for your basic caster setting...
you could just copy level of ball in relation to level of spring perch as one route.
Mount ball as done on '42-48 Mercury, which used a Ford frame with axle moved forward! That used a simple flat plate bolted into crossmember structure with a depression for the ball and a normal ball cap. Either get an actual merc plate or use two ball caps to make socket and cover...bolt this stuff together, if you want it welded wait until engine is in and all is together so you retain ability to set your caster just right.

 

@Bruce Lancaster, OP has mentioned that wishbone is already split, but nevertheless, your point about not welding before caster is finalized is good advice.