Hot Rods Locking caliper mystery game

Squirrel nailed it way back up in post #7. No free play between the master and rod.

The leak is secondary to your original problem, but also nice to find and fix. I'd really be leary of a professional shop that missed a flare on a line and let it leak dry. Also what kind of shop doesn't build an access hole in the floor to the master?

 

Yep... sure did. I can overlook the not properly flared line since someone may have replaced it but no access hole is just ridiculous! I have to fill the reservoir with a shallow measuring cup...

 

I have that problem of no access,,,, and I have to pour BF until it pours out of the MC.
What helped me fully bleed our system was a little plug. The proportioning block has a little electrical plug in for the warning light,, if the MC looses a circuit, empty port in MC, it moves a tiny switch/valve to shut off the dead circuit, when bleeding you need to remove the switch, inset a dummy plug, after making sure the switch/valve is centered, its little and tough on old eyes. The dummy plug holds the valve in place while bleeding the different circuits. I got my from POL. once done, unscrew the plug and reinsert the electronic plug.

 

I have a question related to the bleed tool shown by typo41. I like the idea of not letting the valve move while bleeding the system. I use it when working on Factory systems. How many of us actually connect any kind of light to the actual switch? My thoughts and a decision from clear back sometime in the 70's is that without using the idiot light is that it's just a manifold. I never ever install them in anything unless a customer actually wants that stupid light. So far no issues from deleting them all together. The real up side is less flairs and less chances for leaks.

 

Think squirrel nailed it. Drive a bit, brake fluid gets warm and expands. Seen in several times. No hole to fill is crazy and I have seen a few that way-what a pain in the butt. Neighbor had his brakes redone by some shop on his Nomad. Drove it a little-no problem. Called me after he had driven it around one day as his car had locked the front brakes. Went there and the brakes were HOT and locked up-he said it stopped the car-Yep no slack in the rod.

 

A wash bottle makes filling masters with no access a breeze. Cheap too. (a wash bottle is a squeezable bottle that feeds from the bottom and doesn't need to be inverted and above what you're trying to fill. Scientific, medical and tatoo supplies. But a proper access hatch is preferable!

Chris

 

My brakes were locking up. I would drive for 10 miles you would have to stop it was an adjustment problem between the power brake booster rod and the master cylinder. The rod had an adjuster on the and I turned it down a full turn and it corrected it. I noticed lately when I start the car the pedal is not that great but after I drive for five minutes I have a full hard pedal. Not too long ago my brakes would hang up pulling out of the garage. I have a line adjuster on the fronts I played with that and that solved that problem.Good luck I hope you solve it

 

Follow up post... used a Motive power bleeder and finally got a pedal however I noticed I was still getting air out of the left rear bleeder. The pedal came up and the brakes worked pretty good. This morning went out to hit the pedal and it went to the floor but then pumped up and held pressure. Finally found the culprit! The line that comes off the master cylinder to the rear residual valve wasn't sealing because the flare was on a slight angle so it wasn't leaking (brake fluid) all but sucking air, see pic. Replaced the line, bled the lines (again) and adjusted the rear drum adjusters. Stops good now. thanks for all the help.

 

Thanks for the follow up post and picture on a very interesting find.

Years ago I had issues getting a good pedal after rear brake line repairs on my DD pickup. No leaks but after much aggravation finally noticed I was getting very tiny air bubbles when bleeding. Went back and re flared the splice I had put in and issues solved, never figured out exactly why. Now I know where to look closer before (re) assembling lines/fittings again.

Ed