Hey Gang: Given that I'm building a new banjo rear for my 32 - really an upgraded variant - and the fact that I managed to somehow "collect" a few late 32 - 34 rears . . . am wondering if anybody needs 32 rears these days, what "options" you might want and if it is worth my time building a few. I hate to have parts just sitting here - when they can be of use . . . maybe I'll build a few??? 1) Early 32 Rears: These have the round torque-tube flange - and are really a carryover from the Model A days. You definitely don't want these - and neither do it (so I'm not building any). 2) Late 32 - 34 Rears: These are the ones that you want and that I'm working from. The rear are the same for these three years (starting late in 32). The torque tube has the scalloped flange, the driveshaft is tubular and slips over the pinion splines. The 32 torque-tube and driveshaft is roughly 8 inches shorter than a 33-34. So - if using a 33-34 rear as the basis for a 32 rear, have to shorten the 34 torque-tube and driveshaft. 3) Weaknesses: The single biggest weakness is the whole "tapered axle" situation. Not only are they weak and prone to breakage, it is impossible to find good quality NOS ones these days - just not many out there. The second would be the bearing surfaces (the integral bearing in the side bell) - so modern bearings would be a big plus. The third would be the brakes -- even 39-48 brakes are not the best and replacing everything with "Lincoln Style" backing plates, drums, etc -- lots of money will be spent . . . 4) Improvements: What I'm thinking of building are as follows - and 'cheap' is not my style, so exit now if you're looking for junk stuff. a) New 3.54 Ring and Pinion b) Late style 28 spline slide-in axles -- you won't break these with a flathead or most typical hotrod engines. Will use the HotRod works side-gears and bearing plates for Big-Ford modern bearings. c) Setup for Early Ford Brakes (not included) . . . or maybe late 9" style stuff??? d) Using stock 32 - 34 bells: So they will still use the stock 32 curved spring. Questions: a) Rear Spring: Are you guys running stock 32 -34 curved springs . . . is this the most typical in your builds? Or, are you more inclined to use a straight spring - like the straight 32 springs from P&J b) Tapered Axles or Strong 28 spline modern stuff: I'm tired of tapered axles - how about you? Would you prefer to go to the modern stuff? I can't find originals in good shape and if I do, they cost as much as modern 28 spline axles. c) Brakes: Early Ford (for the traditional look) - or modern 9" style brakes (much better than even the Lincoln/Bendix stuff). It is important to know in that the center drum-register on the axles has to reflect the brake package as well as the backing plate mounts, axles flange offsets, etc.. If I use the stock 32 bells, then there is a lot of work to rework them for the HotRodWorks adapters for modern axles. - Bells and Spring Mounts: Do you want the original outer spring mounts and original 32 bell ends? Another option is to replace the bell ends with modern Big-Ford ends, modern style spring hangers (welded to the tubes), etc.. Wouldn't look exactly "stock", but easier to do, less machine work, etc.. d) Bolt Pattern: You guys still running 5 x 5 1/2 . . . or would you want a different bolt pattern? How about multiple patterns? e) Would you be up for a Quick Change instead of a 32 original banjo? If so, this changes a bunch of stuff - starting with the spring hangers and side bell work. Quick Changes orient the side bells like later Ford Banjos - meaning you can't just bolt 32 side bells to them and have things in the correct locations - you have to modify the side bells (cut off the ends and weld them back on) - this will narrow the rear by about a 1/4" - meaning you have to go with late 28 spline axles anyway. Price - Not Cheap: Regardless of the above options and considering that these will have a new ring and pinion, new axles, etc -- there is no way I can build these for cheap . . . just not possible. I've not done the math yet, but my guess is that we're talking close to $3K. That is a lot - but so are the parts, so is the work and so is the fixturing and all that jazz . . . Thanks for any replies and considerations you might add! B&S
First off, if a guy isn't using a curved spring there seems to be no reason to start with a 32-34 axle. Go with a 35-36 or a 37-40. I think the extra inch of width on each side actually places the wheels (Ford steelies or wires) nicely under the fenders. And grinding a straight spring to fit into a 32 crossmember seems to be a common thing. If a guy is using a curved spring, he won't be using a quickchange, so no need to worry about that. I have a late 32 under my sedan because I wanted it to be an early looking hot rod. If I was building a later 50's hot rod I would have started with the 40-style axle. My 32 axle has stock housings, axles, wishbones, and spring. The brakes are 40, and the R&P are 48 that have been cut to fit the housing. The driveshaft was shortened because of the later pinion.
I've posted many a stupid post, here ... but as a muscle car guy, essentially gone from hobby for the last decade ... ( fatherhood ) ... I've continued to learn and budget collect parts here. I have a few 37-40 banjos, and none of the 32-34. I've picked up some mismatched bells, one of which is 32-34. The others between. I want the strengths of a 250 hp minimum banjo. The more I investigate that, my pile is lacking. By the time I cherry pick, and invest in machine work and better technology ... definitely a little bit of $$$. Cheaper to go nine inch or whatever ... but no charm in that. I like early looking hot rods, pretty much verbatim with Alchemy and assorted, probably, you too. Regular spring, regular appearances from the rear. Nine inch ends are interesting. Guess I'd have some Lincoln and Ford stuff to sell, if that were the road travelled. Maybe better for it. No quickchange for me. Unless it was a Cyclone, of course. Those are killer, and I wouldn't be in this post then ... problems solved. Multiple bolt patterns would be full tits. (.)(.)
Right or wrong, I just picked this up from Dennis in Concord, NC a week ago. I am going to try to use it on my next AV8 build. Steel center welded up QC.
In many cases, I'd run a modern Quick Change - probably a Winters V8 with a wedgelock differential. Then I'd take their "bells" (which are pretty close looking to Ford's) and cut/splice in the 32 Ford bell "ends" on to the Winters tubes. This gives me the look I want, a real differential (posi), modern gears, a Q.C, 28/31 spline axles, etc.. But - I'm also looking at $4000 - $5000 . . . and that doesn't include all the time/cost and mods to the car to put one in. Also, a problem for many of us is that we don't want to switch to a Model A rear crossmember and spring, then have to modify/ruin an original floor pan and/or if we already have a rumble seat (like I do), not planning on taking that out. Given this, the challenge is how can we keep something traditional looking, yet have a decent rear end ratio (say 3.54), and also not have to worry about the strength issues of tapered axles (or trying to find a good set of new ones). We rapidly run out of options . . . as I did with my 32 Cabriolet.
I started working on my AVATAR in 1969 so I have been around the '32's for a while. My advice would be to sit on the parts and wait until you get an order. I think you will find there is a very small market and the market is not moving very fast. Guys like myself are, I hate to say it, dying off or sitting at home watching television. Most of the cars showing up were restored in the seventies and the rear ends should forever at the rate they are driven. If someone was restoring one they would probably want the early rear end as the late rear end would be "correct" for only a short time at the end of the production. If someone was "HAMBING" one, even its a flathead they would probably want a later rear end. Charlie Stephens
I did put a "later" rearend in my sedan. It's an early production 32 car, and we used a late 32 axle.
I am going to run a flat 8 with the quick change above. The way I will drive it I will never twist a axle. But I can see your points on wanting something stronger
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