I recently bought this truck with my heart instead of my head. I bought it from a broker so I knew that everything he said I had to take with a grain or even a shaker of salt! It’s a 53 Ford F1 hundred with the original six cylinder and three on the tree. It’s been lowered and a lot of the work that’s been done has been done pretty well. The body is decent and the paint is a 20 footer. I was hoping that I could enjoy driving it the way it was while making improvements over time. But my first drive made me realize that the front end was not just a little loose but downright scary! It has the original steering column, which I like and want to keep, but the box is shot. I was wondering if there was another manual box (Borgeson, OEM) that would work. I saw the Toyota power conversion option, but that will not let me retain my three on the tree shifting capabilities as the bottom of the steering column must be trimmed. It also has a drop axle and the steering linkage looks like some kind of cobble together homemade stuff with heim ends and welds where I think they probably shouldn’t be. The front (and rear) wheel tire package is way too big also, so putting a smaller set up on that would probably help out a lot with the steering. I did a search and got some info there, but I thought I’d ask in a new thread. Thanks-Andy
It's too bad they ruined the steering arms and pitman arm with those cobbled studs and heim ends. There is probably no fixing those. Best to find good original parts and do proper dropping of the spindle arms. Then use automotive rod ends like it should have. If the spindle arms are dropped correctly you might not even need a goofy dipped tie rod (unless the oil pan is really in the way). A properly rebuilt steering box will work great once all the hokey crap is removed. I can also see your upper steering arm has been rubbing on the bracket on the frame. You will need more clearance there. Kinda looks like a mini trucker built his first hot rod truck. Some ideas that we in the old Ford world don't really approve of.
Wow... Looks like a 4" Dagoed axle welded on and perched on TOP of Monoleaf springs! Steering arm reshaped, welded ball on bottom...all to disguise ultimate 'bumpsteer'... Say one thing, though...it IS low! Remedy: Reversed eyes and flattened 'original' spring pack, axle placed underneath as OEM position would make for more 'solidarity' under there. Axle should also be moved forward 1-1/2", centering tire in wheel well. (redrill spring center bolt hole in main leaf, shorten #2 leaf in front) Tie rod can then be a straight tube, with the dropped ends. (dropped tie rod ends, NOT 'spacer tubing'!) Drag link should be a straight link, bends aren't going to change the stations. Steering arm at spindle should be changed, stock one heated and reshaped to match the deep drop in axle. Make the arm 'parallel'. VERY nice truck, I have to say (mine's a '55) Look at the whole package: this truck is worth it.
I was hoping to be able to go back to more of the stock steering components without raising the front too much as I do like em low. The front wheels do seem to be centered pretty well already though. These trucks are new to me so I’m ordering catalogs and trying to learn as much as I can so I can get it going quickly and hopefully without reinventing the wheel! Good info guys, thanks.
I installed a Toyota power steering box in a 57 F100 and retained the three on the tree. Had to modify the bottom of column and shortened shift tube but it worked out great, I may have pics somewhere. I will look. It was also a 6 cylinder.
All the parts to rebuild your box are available. Like others have advised, you need to put the spring on top of the axle, drop the steering arms or see if Willy's tie rod ends will clear and work from there....
Yeah I was worried about posting pictures of the truck here because of the possible backlash and ribbing I might get. So far so good.
Alt is on passenger side low with fabricated bracket. Also fabricated a second pulley on crank balancer as double pulleys are hard to find for 6 cylinders. That lower second pulley drives the alt.
If I remember the bracket came with the kit the owner had purchased. It had a ford ps pump and was pretty messed up. I modified with adjustable ac brackets welded on bottom and then added tabs for GM power steering pump. I like the new pumps because you can adjust the pressure very easily with shims under pressure fitting.
Ok I just went out to the garage in the sweltering heat and did some measuring. It look like if I swap the axle to the bottom of my leaf springs that will give me a 2-3/4 lift. So that and a box rebuild and some new steering arms and center link with or without dropped tie rod ends, if necessary might get me on my way.
Wish I had photos of my 56 project from back in early 70's. At that time I used a Bronco complete Tie Rod unit including the cross steer link and then mounted a 1967 Galixie power steering box. I then connected the stock column and shift unit back in place. My fab skills were pretty fair and I drove that Truck for several years. It all started with a new from Moredrop 4" axle and an idea. Cross Steer wasn't a common swap back then but I wanted Power Steering more than the cross steer and the Bronco unit made that come together pretty easy. At least that's how I remember it. Just food for thought.
Speedway Motors has some dropped tie rod ends that basically fit in the stock tie rod but have a built in drop. Those, combined with you heating and dropping the stock steering arms might be just enough to get below the pan without the bent tie rod. I have a pair of the Speedway dropped ends, but haven't used them yet. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...MIwM-SxtPI4wIVBdvACh1IZAEZEAQYASABEgKYafD_BwE If you can drop that steering arm on the spindle for the drag link a bunch you will help your bump steer. I doubt you can ever get it perfect unless you raise the steering box, but every bit helps. Too much uphill adds to the bump steer problem.
As others have said, that's a nice truck. All of the front end stuff is pretty straightforward nuts and bolts kind of stuff to fix.
I'll add this also. To use your stock steering column on a late box is a very minor job. It requires cutting the steering shaft off the gear box. You then get a hardware store flange bearing to insert into the column tube that is 3/4" i.d. for the shaft (there are other options for this part). The shaft needs to have two flats filed or machined on it for a D D style u-joint. You then connect the other end of the U-Joint to the steering box. Everything still looks stock as long as the hood is closed. I'll tell you this also, cross steer on your I-Beam is a 200 percent improvement over the Drag Link style you have now. I see these in rebuilt on line from $80.oo to $125.oo in power and if you wanted to go manual you can still buy a brand new one under $300.oo. You'll spend more than that on just the parts for the F-100 box.
I love that truck! I had a 53 F100 with 6 and 3 on tree also, it drove great, turned on a dime. Wish I'd have kept it.
Thanks I saw those dropped arms when I was doing some research. I believe I saw a centerlink too. I’m thinking if I put the axle back on the bottom of my spring it might get it back up far enough so I won’t need such a drastic drop on my drag link. I’ll also need new steering arms and I haven’t seen anyone reproducing those, but I have a buddy in Texas with the parts I need if I can’t find them local. Trying to figure out what I need so maybe I can get some of the stuff brought to Louisville and I can pick it up directly from the vendor. I know Midwest Early Ford will be there but I haven checked with anyone else.
The mating of the column to the Toyota box is not the problem, I’ve done those before. I “built” a chrome steering column for my 40 Ford using the Borgeson 525 box. The problem with the Toyota box is one, it’s a Toyota box and two, if I use that option, I lose my shifter linkage on the column. Do you know of a box being used in the F100’s in a cross steering application? You mentioned boxes available for that but I don’t know of any. Thanks
You have my post mixed up with the one from AngleDrive. I used the Toyota box in my 57 Ford car but in the Truck info I'm talking about a full size Ford car box. These two projects of mine were 35 years apart.
"if I use that option, I lose my shifter linkage on the column." Not saying you should use the Toyota box, but I made the shifter linkage work. The reason I used the Toyota box was the owner had already purchased the kit and wanted power steering. If you don't care about power steering than make the stock parts work as I had 50 hours in engineering and fabricating to make it all work.
Andy, this is from a 70s article about installing a cross steer setup. It's for a mid fifties Chevy, but the kits are about the same.
You know the truck I said I had that had a cross steering on it - I remembered I had this left over from it.
You can cross steer it by using a tie rod end from a Jeep , it has a hole for the drag link to attach . I have done 3 Toyota power Conversions . Do it and don’t look back , it will be there for ever without one issue . I’m not to fond of your linkage and axle dropping method , it’s yours and it you are ok with it I suppose it is ok . Just no way for me . Safety is a big issue welding and modifying steering and brakes. It looks bad azz , but I’m not sure I want to see it approaching me with your family in it .
I’m not OK with it either, that’s why I’m here looking for ideas. If it was an early Ford, I’d be all over it, but these F100’s are new to me. Thanks for your input. P.S , you have any pictures of this cross steering set up?
This is factory Bronco parts, not a Kit. ^^^^^^^^Much better with the connecting link mounted inboard a bit.
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