I just noticed a nice5/16" chip in a rear fender-black base coat with clear coat. I did a search but most repair threads involved using an airbrush and repainting. I don't have that equipment or skill level. I'm looking for other suggestions for a"pretty good" repair. Are any of those kits in the car mags, Autoweek,etc. and good at all? Thanks
I had a chip in my black Harley tank and I just used 600 about a 1 1/2" area around the chip, put a drop of black paint in the chip and waited a day. 600 the black paint and a few drops of clear over the black paint on the chip and waited another day and 600 followed by 1000. Then used polishing compound and chip disappeared.
If you want cheap and easy, try this. A black Sharpie for the basecoat, let it dry, like for a day, then use clear fingernail polish in light coats, letting them dry thoroughly so as to not disturb the "basecoat". It won't be perfect, but it won't be a big chip with primer showing either. You can build the fingernail polish up, with patience.
You can carefully dab it in with black and clear to build up the divot...knock it down with a nib cutter or fine paper...repeat as needed until the chip is at the same level as the paint....wet sand and polish. Black is an easy color to fix and the clear is very forgiving. YouTube and alot of patience are your friends. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
What Big Chief and 1946 caddy said. Have done this many times on black cars (have 3). Just be patient. Done right it will not show. Had a nickle sized chip in top of rear fender of wife's 55. Did as they mentioned and it doesn't show. Took a few days but worked well. Have done many chips since.
For me, at least, I find the biggest challenge of Chip repair (I have a black Car too that is clear coated) is the sanding/finishing after repair-you can easily make a divot in the clear sanding the Paint flat- I use the old Razor Blade trick (score one side of a Razor Blade on something Cast Iron that is 'as cast"-I've also scored it on Sandpaper, but it can get very aggressive), put masking Tape on both ends (some people bent the Blade, but I sand the ends round), and carefully cut it down, keeping the Blade flat to the Panel- (or it will dig in)- Then it's a matter of carefully sanding the surrounding area flat (if it's on a flat part I'll use a Paint stick or something flat) then use increasing small circles (to keep it uniform)-I finish to 3000 Grit- I then use a Milwaukee cordless 3" Buffer with an orange Foam Pad, and, I really like Chemical Guys Compounds (they offer 4 Grits-coarse to fine, and finish with a white Pad (with V38)- If you are going to own a black Car, you will learn your preferred method (I've tried many-for me, the Airbrush thing didn't work well, as the Paint had to be reduced too far to spray, causing it to not cover (even with the smallest tip/needle in the Gun)- I find that if I use these to put Paint on it doesn't put too much at one time: https://www.ezmix.com/images/thumbs/0000094_dabbers_600.jpeg
I would recommend just leaving it. It’s part of the road scars you get if you car is actually a driver. It also gets glossed over at shows and would be way more obvious if it is a crappy fix. If you are trying for points and your car is a show car. Then you should not be driving it as much. People will understand if your car actually gets driven then your cars will have chips.
If it has no chips, it's either a trailer queen, or it never gets out of the jewelry box (garage). Phil
Chips can be a badge of honor but I have repaired many that were undectable when done. It really depends on where it is and as mentioned patience when building it up and finishing it off.
looks like more than one? I was hoping to see a photo of it's location, there are different ways to "hide" the repair depending on wether it is on an edge, around a corner, in a divot or in the middle of a flat or curved panel. first start by cleaning it really well. do you have any of the original base? or clear?