Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Need advice of how to correct the door gap.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Do it Over, Jul 3, 2019.

  1. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    IMG_9910.JPG
    Pulling the cowel forward at the top and adding a shim under back of the cowel to the frame should help make it line up. If there is any shims under the front of the cowel try takeing one out. But you are still fighting the roof because it to short over the door wher they put a piece in it. It looks liked the overlapped the roof panel. Do you have a thin cutoff wheel?. What does the other side look like? And do you have access to make another roof skin that one looks pretty rough. This will determine the next step.
     
  2. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    IMG_2312.jpg You can take a small cutoff wheel and cut the insert loose across the front and down the side to get the length and correct the splice. But be sure to brace as you go. Also you may want to take the striker out so the door does not give you a false fit. It doesn't take the striker much being off to affect the alignment, I always like to fit my doors this way because you can get a real fit and no bind. Once you get the belt line lined up then all you have is get the upper door frame aligned. You can take a welding rod across the top opening to tell you where your at. I just gave my dog a haircut and bath am now inside because it's 101 and the humity is high.
     
    tb33anda3rd likes this.
  3. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    I was always on a low budget. No way I'd pay lots of money for used pricey 32 hinges, so I used 31 Dodge rear door hinges that I already had. On yours, I would use any hinges from mid 30s to 40s that work similar to stock, but does not need to be Ford, or the same year Ford.

    My suggestion is change your mindset to "I'm going for a perfect fit", then even if it's not quite perfect, the results will be worth a bit more labor/time (if you try to fix more basic mistakes now).

    What I mean, is that if you start trying to get the rough fitting done with thick frame/body shims in certain places, then you are starting with what most of us know, is not a good thing. It's just realizing that if you "back up a bit more than I wanted to.." and get off to a correct foundation & plan, then the results will pay off faster/better.

    I'd try to put some clear thoughts on finding out that it might save lots of time and frustration if you have to back up and do more cut/weld corrections now, instead of fighting harder in long run to come out with "just good enough".
     
  4. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,710

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    It would be great if you would make the images full size when you post them instead of the thumbnails that people have to enlarge to see them, it is easy to do when you add them to your post, just click on making all images full size. Thank you.
     
  5. Do it Over
    Joined: Dec 25, 2017
    Posts: 478

    Do it Over
    Member
    from NYC, NY

    That area in the yellow circle seems to me to be the edge of a bad idea on how to close the roof section. I hammered it up some before I cut the door and it looked much better from the outside though the innards are still befuddled. 20190720_161308.jpg 20190720_161317.jpg 20190720_161324.jpg 20190720_161308.jpg 20190720_161308.jpg 20190720_161317.jpg 20190720_161324.jpg
     
  6. Do it Over
    Joined: Dec 25, 2017
    Posts: 478

    Do it Over
    Member
    from NYC, NY

    That is my mindset when I start a job however since I started with crap the best I can make is a crap sandwich. I accept I dont have the skillset to cut this out and start over. That would kill this project. I cant turn this rowboat into a speedboat but I can install a motor on it and enjoy it. I'm cutting my teeth here and on my next project will shoot for the stars. At this point in time I'm still trying to get th ed gun to shoot :)
     
  7. Do it Over
    Joined: Dec 25, 2017
    Posts: 478

    Do it Over
    Member
    from NYC, NY

    Got lots of tools and equipment as it's easy to buy those. MIG, TIG, plasma, gas welding, English wheel, shrinker stretcher, bead roller ect. Only thing I dont have is a porta- power to push the A-pillar with. 20190720_162401.jpg 20190720_162440.jpg My plan was to redo the roof last as I didn't know it would be involve in the door solution.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. The metal roof skin is the girly part that follows the door jamb and support structure.
    From the inside It should be a smooth contour and gently curved not that herky jerky dilapidated roller coaster ride youve got there now.
    Like this ,,,
    There’s 3 curves there
    The door jamb the door frame the window opening
    EC73F6CC-A65F-4517-A3AD-38A2F63CECAD.jpeg
     
  9. Do it Over
    Joined: Dec 25, 2017
    Posts: 478

    Do it Over
    Member
    from NYC, NY

    Here the other side of the roof. 20190720_163447.jpg 20190720_163438.jpg 20190720_163433.jpg 20190720_160642.jpg 20190720_160628.jpg 20190720_160613.jpg 20190720_160609.jpg
     
    kidcampbell71 and tb33anda3rd like this.
  10. Do it Over
    Joined: Dec 25, 2017
    Posts: 478

    Do it Over
    Member
    from NYC, NY

    Now off to pick up dog poop, cut the lawn and service my daily driver.
     
  11. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    IMG_2313.JPG Do you have access to a friction jack, all the older VW Bugs came with one. My 40 Sedan Delivery came with one. Some people call them Monkey on a Stick and they don't leak off. You can buy them on line or at a body shop paint store.
     
  12. Do it Over
    Joined: Dec 25, 2017
    Posts: 478

    Do it Over
    Member
    from NYC, NY

    I bought this one just for this purpose but it's too darn big and bulky. I have some lolly column jacks I use to lift floor joists on the house. Maybe I'll cut one of them down and give it a try. 20190720_171225.jpg
     
    31Vicky with a hemi likes this.
  13. Do it Over
    Joined: Dec 25, 2017
    Posts: 478

    Do it Over
    Member
    from NYC, NY

    I decided to wait till tomorrow after church to do any cutting. I'll separate the roof filler back to the part where the filler was added. Cut from the drip rail across and through the tack strip on the drivers side. On the passengers side I'll cut through the tack strip to the drip rail but I'll stop short of cutting through at the gutter. Then push forward on the cowl. If things line up I'll tack the roof filler downtown hold thing in place until I can fabricate new door jamb and weld em in place. Anybody got pics/info on how to fab proper jambs, door frame and roof filler panel ?
     
  14. Do it Over
    Joined: Dec 25, 2017
    Posts: 478

    Do it Over
    Member
    from NYC, NY

    The fun has started 20190721_172520.jpg
     
    31Vicky with a hemi likes this.
  15. Do it Over
    Joined: Dec 25, 2017
    Posts: 478

    Do it Over
    Member
    from NYC, NY

    OK, so this is happening. Seems the roof is under some stress. I could presume it could be from the roof filler panel being welded over top/overlapping the roof or it could be from the 1/2" of shims at the A-pillar or most obviously the the car wasn't bolted to the chassis during the chop and is under the stress of being pulled down to it. Either way I'm gonna go cut the lawn and reflect on this. 20190721_173124.jpg 20190721_173124.jpg 20190721_173130.jpg 20190721_173136.jpg
     
  16. that is from not aligning it on the chassis before it was chopped. the more you cut the easier it will be to put stuff into alignment and the bad/problem spots will really show.
     
  17. Do it Over
    Joined: Dec 25, 2017
    Posts: 478

    Do it Over
    Member
    from NYC, NY

    Well I got this far. Now I'm gonna study my Tex Smith How to Chop a Top book and some YouTube and HAMB chops. It seems like I'm gonna end up rechoping this top. I'm aiming for the stars :) .

    I see the roof filler strips are not in the same place. They're 1/2" further back on the bad side. Maybe the builder was cross eyed based on some of the metal work. What parts am I missing to do a stock type filler and where can I get them?

    20190721_191817.jpg 20190721_191825.jpg 20190721_191833.jpg 20190721_191904.jpg 20190721_191921.jpg 20190721_191939.jpg 20190721_192033.jpg 20190721_192039.jpg 20190721_192049.jpg 20190721_193522.jpg 20190721_193530.jpg
     
    tb33anda3rd likes this.
  18. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,730

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    This is getting interesting. It looks like you’re going to learn a lot from this car, whether you intended to or not.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Do it Over likes this.
  19. Any chance you have non fish eye lens camera?
     
  20. Do it Over
    Joined: Dec 25, 2017
    Posts: 478

    Do it Over
    Member
    from NYC, NY

    What do you mean by non fish eye camera? I'm using my Galaxy S10 phone. Are the pics looking distorted? All or some? I do have a real camera I can use. Cannon G9X.
    Do these pics have fish eye. I see two options on phone screen. 20190721_232044.jpg 20190721_232024.jpg
     
  21. Do it Over
    Joined: Dec 25, 2017
    Posts: 478

    Do it Over
    Member
    from NYC, NY

     
  22. Do it Over
    Joined: Dec 25, 2017
    Posts: 478

    Do it Over
    Member
    from NYC, NY

    Seems my thoughts are getting closer to cutting out some of the previous work on the roor. I plan to X-brace across the B-pillars and the pass door with a horizontal bar on top of both. Also a brace from the pass A-pillar to the drivers B-pillar. Any thing else I sould do ?
     
  23. only brace what is in alignment, you will be moving everything else.
     
    Do it Over likes this.
  24. Do it Over
    Joined: Dec 25, 2017
    Posts: 478

    Do it Over
    Member
    from NYC, NY

    Do you think I'll need to cut both sides of the roof completely or can I get away with wedge cut the passengers side or should I just wait and see what the metal does when I push on it?
     
  25. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,335

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    You might also make some adjustable bracing.
     
  26. You can take a look thru my build thread and see how I did the jambs.

    I like to use turnbuckles and 3/4” conduit for adjustable braces. Cheap easy good and adjustable on the fly
    B06B5B52-9523-4CD5-B3CB-44D10976A506.jpeg
     
    s55mercury66 likes this.
  27. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,248

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You're getting plenty of help from some good guys here so I won't be tasting the cookie dough on the metal surgery. I will add that I use 2 final adjustments on all these old bitches, body bolt tension and body to frame pad compression. As long as the lock washer is compressed it's secure but tightening in whatever sequence required for door alignment is the final step. The only other method used to dial it all in happens at the hinge. I had no door adjustment on my 39 but the backs were sagged out. Maybe years of leaning on the doors, bouncing down the road, who knows. My final solution was laying a nice strip of 3/4 plywood in the jamb and gingerly closing the door on it so as not to buckle anything but raise the door at the striker area. My hinges are part of the body (or door, I'm not by the car to say). For even more finite fit the dovetail and recievers get adjusted. Just be glad you're not dealing with a wood framed body. Talk about wet noodle shit...(!)

    I think the best move you've done so far is get that filler out of the roof. Now you're in charge again. All the best, kool coupe.
     
  28. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 1,904

    Happydaze
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Exploring that roof is rather like an archaeological dig, not that I know anything about that stuff! I've had your cars slightly better twin brother, from the same state as well! Separated at birth? I can see that that roof has suffered multiple injustices as the gutter in the cut out isn't stock, it looks like a previous hack job that's then been aborted and skinned right over, but you've removed that part. The original metal has been exposed to lots of welding and will probably still be stressed. Cut it all out back to factory metal and you won't be fighting it. A replacement roof insert will go in as the very last thing.

    Chris
     
    Do it Over likes this.
  29. Do it Over
    Joined: Dec 25, 2017
    Posts: 478

    Do it Over
    Member
    from NYC, NY

    I've been out of service due to my jacked up back but I had to get back to this project. I've been thinking what to do, trying to understand what the metal wants to do and how to let it do it. First thing I decided I had to do was cut the roof completely to see just how stressed the roof was. This is the result. The roof moved forward 1/2" at the outside and 1/4" on the inside. I see the butchery at the eyebrow is distorting the roof skin. I've come up with a couple options

    20190726_094412.jpg 20190726_094416.jpg 20190726_094441.jpg .
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2019

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.