Projects 46 Ford Coupe

My 46 Ford convertible has a dropped front axle, GM 605 power steering and a Chevy 10 bolt rear and a Chassis Engineering spring kit. One of the best riding cars I've owned.

 

First things First.....
Do not worry about the body right now. Lifting the body means a "frame off". Personally, I do not think you are ready for that.
There's plenty to be done. Plenty of simple things.

Let's talk about the stock '46 Ford Coupe for a moment.
Stock, it pretty much is a hot rod. These were smaller cars. V8 powered they were very peppy.
Stock, they can keep up with traffic.
Stock, they drove pretty well.
Stock, they stopped pretty well.
It's a Early V8 Ford. You already have everything need.

An old car is a different experience. They have to be driven. You do not ride around in these, you drive them.

The basic platform is good even for OHV power.

Get a factory shop manual. It covers just about everything. Vern Tardel has a series of booklets for the steering gear, distributor, brakes, transmission and banjo rear axle. Mac Van Pelt has a great transmission book and has new and used parts.
Mac's (Ecklers) is a resource for some stuff, especially upholstery.
Dennis Carpenter is great.
Bob Drake is good.
CG Ford is great.
Even your local box stores have a lot of stuff with NAPA having better quality.

It's going to take a great amount of effort just to get the car drivable as it is. When your talking changing engines and major stuff, this only compounds the issue.
My advice....keep it as close to stock as you can. Do not take it all the way down unless you want a years long project. Do small things....get that done and move on.

Now to your project.....
1. Get it to yard or shop roll. Since it looks like it has 4 good wheels and tires, this pretty much done.
2. Get it in your shop. Chock It!
3. Clean, box, bag or wrap loose parts. Use note cards with a hole punch and wire or tape these labeled note cards to the box or put them in a bag. Use a sharpie as ball points will fade away after a few years. If you have a part you do not know what it is....label it as such. Keep a photo record of these loose parts on your phone. This can help identify the mystery parts later.
4. Find a safe, clean out of the way place to store these parts.
5. Clean the car up. Sweep it out .Vacuum it.
6. Now it's time to start evaluating what you two have.
A. The engine.
Is it stuck?
If it's not stuck you are way ahead.
B. The transmission. Can you work the shifter? You may want to oil or WD all the friction points of the shift mechanism.

Mash the clutch. Try shifting through the gears. Do you know the shift pattern on these?
It's a H.

The shift pattern with you sitting in the driver seat.....
Neutral is the middle of the H.

First...
is towards you through neutral and down towards your lap at the bottom of the H.
Second...
Up from First to Neutral....the shifter slides to the front of the car through neutral, up to the windshield at the top of the H.
Third or High...
Open palm....straight down through neutral to the dash or floor.....the front bottom of the H.
Reverse....
From Third.... back up from Third to neutral slide back through neutral and up.
Reverse is easy to remember as you go back and up...
From 1st.....it's straight up.
From 2nd it's a U through neutral.
I post this as it's been nearly 40 years since 3 speed Column shift has been produced.
Anyway......
You want the car in neutral (and Chocked!) to check out the engine.

The engine status is the first major factor of the build. Basically the car is built around engine choice.
If the engine is stuck bad....you can count on a rebuild. If it's cracked bad through the valves, you'll need a new block.

A flathead V8 is really not that expensive to build if you have good parts like the block, crank, rods etc etc.....
The big expense on these is finding good blocks or repairing bad ones.
Another giant expense on flatheads are all the speed goodies.

If the engine is Bad.......
These are early OHV engines that fit well.

1. The Small Block Chevrolet. With ramhorns....it fits. Mounts are available and it can be adapted to the present transmission. It is great for a mid 50s to 60s build.
2. The Early Cadillac 331-390. Can fit your transmission with adapters...
3. Early Olds 303-394 very similar to Cadillac.
4. Buick Nail Head.....
5. Early Hemi.....wide engine with the heads on.
6. Small block Ford.....60's era....adapters are available but pricey. Exhaust and mounts can be problematic....
The Chevy, Caddy and Olds really fit better with less Headache.
All above can be adapted to your '46 transmission.

I recommend that you use the flathead or use an engine that can be adapted to the flatheads transmission if possible and keep your transmission and torque tube.

If you go with say an open drive with auto.....it requires a lot more modification.

 

Just picked up my 46 a few days ago, good post to stumble on. Thanks for the info F-ONE.

 

You'd be surprised what you can do with a handful of tools that you have laying around. You don't have to blow your budget getting gobs of high end tools. Most of mine are from Harbor Freight or something I picked up used on FB for next to nothing.

 

Anyone venture to guess what his horn ring is from? Doesn't look like 46.

 

Looks like it came off a Mercury

 

One more thing about this car. It's drawn a fair amount of interest from some serious guys here. Please keep posting your progress and ask questions. We are all here to help each other.

 

This one that Chris just sold was just about perfect IMO. Check out the pics for inspiration
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1946-ford-super-deluxe-coupe.1145829/

 

Great advise , been doing rods since mid seventies , the most enjoyment was Back when I had little money, drove car while I saved and worked on it.

 

Don't do what I usually do. I usually find a project and quickly proceed to tear it all apart to repair everything thats bad. Along the way, finding more stuff to repair which means it will take me years to finish it.
The last car I bought was a 48 Ford coupe and I went against my usual process and just messed with it til I got it running, then stopping and driving. Now that I have it driving, I don't want to tear it apart to redo anything, I am just going to enjoy driving an old car that drives like an old car.

 

I have to agree with most if the replies on here. Get it running, driving, and stopping. You can enjoy the heck out of that car just the way it is. I tore my 57 apart when I got it and it took me 19 years to get it roadworthy! Good luck and ask any questions, we are here to help

 

My kids only 2, so my inexperienced advise would be beer and patience.., lol. Good luck. Bet it’s going to be a blast. It’s gotta run, stop, then move. After that it’s all down hill, you’ve gotta car.


Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Thanks. Will take that advise. Would really like to hear that original flathead run! Gonna put some PB Blaster in the heads tonight and let her soak it up for a while

 

I know I need to replace the running boards. They are rusted through

 

Also need glass for doors and windshield.

 

Ordered the shop manual and fl

Thanks for all the info. Great advise. I'm gonna print it and hang it in the shop

 

tshoptransmission seems to run through all the gears very easily

 

ZD,

Sorry, I don't have the parts you are needing. I do have the rear window glass though.

 

Is the paperwork clean and does it match the number on the car? If not, THAT is the place to start. If you have never done a brake job on the rear of an early Ford read up and then ask before you start, they are a little different. Ask first, hammer second. Looks like it will be a good project.

Charlie Stephens

 

Just realized there are 16 inch tires on the car. Shouldn't they be 15?

 

Original from factory tires & wheels were 16 inch for the 1946 Ford's.

 

Charlie brings up a good point. I found the rear brakes on my 48 to be the most challenging repair. Luckily, someone before me made the brake drums separate from the hubs. If not, you need a special tool to remove the rear hubs.

 

Not to be a smart ass but would you consider jumping onto one that is quite a bit further along than yours? Rust free body, engine rebuilt with all NEW parts, chassis completely rebuilt, new radiator, alternator, electronic ignition, new exhaust, and much more. The story is my life long friend and I decided to relive our college days car and bought a 46 long door coupe at the end of 2013. He died in 2015 and at 82 I can't handle finishing it myself and plus the incentive is gone. If you would consider this option PM me and bring at least three trailers because a 46 2dr parts car and a heaping trailer of flathead parts goes with it. 6k for all includes 302 with early Ford trans adapter. One set of pics is mislabeled "48" and I put 41 trim on it because I like it better. 46 trim included. Many more build shots if interested.

 

Looks like a pretty good start to me

 

Sorry about the double entries.

 

Coilover,

I'm sorry about your misfortune.

With that said, I think it is in poor taste taste to market and post an add on someone's build thread.

ZD46Ford coupe,

Coilovers posting is timely though and it does bring up a point. There will always be a better deal. There will always be a cheaper car somewhere that seemingly will require less work. Sometimes there will be a running and driving car ready to go for much less than what you have now.

I have seen enough of your car to say you have a good example. You have a builder. If it was a piece of junk parts car I may feel differently but it really is a good start.

You gotta love this....
Your car is junk....mine is much better. After that is a very sad story.

Coilover I'm sorry but you kind of asked for it. Just how is a guy with a one car garage in New Jersey going to get three trailer loads of 46 Ford from Texas? If would be difficult for Z if your car and all the parts were free.

ZD46Ford coupe,

There will always be a better option, a better way and a better car.

A project is a commitment. In a sense it's like a marriage. The key to having a happy and healthy union is to....
not shop around for a better one. Because sure enough you will find one. So stay focused on repair. Stay out of Craigslist and the sale sites. Stay committed to your project.

Just think what that 6K could do to your project. What about the several thousand it would take to get it....10K....12K total?

I post this because it's real easy to get distracted by these " better " deals that may not be better at all.
The worst thing you can do for a project is getting another one. That's a sure path to failure. It's real easy to find you have a garage and yard full of them. It's real easy to find yourself buried....
One at a time....One task at a time.

 

You guys are right, I should have put it in the Cars for Sale section. My line of thought was one can't be brought to this stage for that amount of money and as a couple pointed out a long project could cause his son to lose interest. This one is an "on the road project" in way less time. Learned my lesson and it won't happen again.

 

To remove the rear brake drums you need tool shown in first two photos.. Similar tools are on Ebay.
DO NOT use any tool that looks like this..https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Steel-Drop-Hub-Drum-Brake-Puller-Screw-Wheel-Lug-Remover-Tool-Bearing/133036589847?

 

I'm not insulted by Coilover's offer guys. The situation I am in would actually warrant a car that is further along but my finaces are not. But thanks for the suoport. I appreciate everyone's support