Technical Clutch Setup - 4 speed conversion on 57 Chevy

Further proof you can't fix stupid !!

 

Gives a whole new meaning to the term "limited slip"!

 

Probably a DANA Arma-Steel Positraction; that's what they were stock. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

That would be "NO Slip". I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

@squirrel - you're correct, I'm using the bearing that came in the clutch kit, which is a bent finger/diaphragm, not the borg & beck style. I measured it last night, wrote it down, and left the measurement on the workbench. So, perfect. But if I remember right, one of the uses of the adjustable pivot ball is to compensate for multiple TO bearing heights. At any rate, I'll get the measurement off the bench tonight.

I pulled it all apart (it came apart smoothly, no prying) and removed the pressure plate. Checked out the pilot bushing and it looked fine, no mushrooming or any other damage to speak of. Line up tool slid in nice, and the test fit of the input shaft went in smooth as well, so at least I know I didn't wreck anything.



I thought I had this figured, because it looked to my eye like the TO bearing wasn't centered in the opening in the bellhousing.



Looks off, right? I immediately thought I needed a longer fork, but then took a second (third, fourth, fifth) look and I think it was just the angle. I squared up the bearing face with the bell and took several hundred measurements around the bearing, and they were all about 0.010" within each other, which I think counts for centered.

Next step is to get my dial indicator out and see how far off the bellhousing is. Is it all that common for these to be made so far off that they require the offset dowels?

Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate the advice. Sometimes a project has you stepping out onto the ledge...

 

the TO bearing is upside down in that picture...I hope you installed it properly when you had it all together?

 

Well, isn't this embarassing...

 

Actually it's to get the best fulcrum ratio possible for either throw out bearings. In other words @ mid travel of fork it needs to travel to same amount to full release as back to rest. This removes binding issues and off centering as well.

 

Kinda dry in the pilot bearing. You need a bit of chassis lube on it.

 

It did initially, but I wiped it clean to check it out.

 

sometimes being embarrassed fixes a problem

 

Fingers crossed that was my issue. Loose nut behind the wheel...

 

I put a Lakewood in my 55 last winter and it was about 0.007 out. I think the instructions that came with my TKO wanted it to be within 0.010, but I cant really recall now. I do know that it was within the specs so I didn't install offset dowels.

 

the problem with offset dowels is then the bolt holes attaching it to the block are not lined up. I waller the alighnment dowel holes in the scattershield until its centered then weld a small patch with the correct size hole to the outside bellhousing. Still sometimes have block to bell bolt hole misalignment a bit of filing with a round file takes care of that so it fits. my block plate is 3/8 thick. so I drilled a couple of holes thru the bellhousing flange and partially into the block plate. welded a fixed nut to the bell and installed a bolt that had the end beveled. then the 4 holes at the bottom are enlarged to where they line up and a tight fitting bolt installed to hold the block plate and bell together.

 

Also keep in mind the correct way to attach the fork to the t.o. bearing.
People have been doing it wrong for years.

Short, informative video below.
Pay no mind to the sleeve promotion.

https://www.google.com/search?q=che...i57.48716j0j4&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

 

If this is the case ,while I feel your embarrassment ,I can't help but laugh !!
While your checking , is the fork all the way on the pivot ball ??

 

Not that big a deal, a very little amount of grease can't hurt, but the bearing is oil impregnated.

I never had a problem with bolts not lining up with offset dowels, won't say it can't happen, just has been a problem for me. That said, check this out: https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/42515100.pdf

 

I laughed too. If I didn't, I'd cry.

The pivot ball is indeed all the way into the fork, I checked that a handful of times, you know, trying to eliminate the obvious, dumb mistakes...

 

at least you understand the importance of keeping your sense of humor around

 

I once installed the clutch disk facing the wrong direction. The springs in the disk rubbed the flywheel bolts. Nothing to do but pull it apart and turn the disk the proper direction.

 

Thanks buddy,It has been a long time since I did a clutch install.

 

Took a set of .014 offset dowels to get mine right.

 

^^^^^ I like that you used only 3 9 then 6 12 o'clock position to take measurements. I never understood measure all around.

 

At almost 40, I've gotten really good at making myself look stupid. It would sorta be weird if I didn't.

 

Yes indeed the older I get the dumber I am. Why couldn't all of lifes great problems happen when I was a teen and knew everything.

 

We're finally smart enough to realize how dumb we are!

 

Yep , the older you get , the dumber you get , just imagine how you feel at 71 .!!

 

Good news. I turned the TO bearing around the right way (thanks @squirrel ) and it all slid together with a little wiggling. No more binding on the clutch fork.



I'm confident enough now to drop the assembly back in the car to get the crossmember set up and start to put the linkage together, which I'm sure I'll need help with. Thanks again guys!

 

put the tranny in gear and while someone tries to turn the out put shaft, pry back on the fork. at some point the clutch will release and the out put shaft will turn.

 

To make sure the clutch does indeed release?