Technical Hacked Off and Boxed In

I've been having steering box issues, too. '55 F100, did the popular Toyota 4X4 P/S box with Chev. P/S pump. (Yeah, I'm old, and on my second SBC in a Ford...)
Anyway, I decided to rebuild my F100 box, so ordered everything I needed...shaft w/screw, all bearings, roller, and gaskets.
Got an email 3 days later...my shaft is back ordered. (the shaft was $199.95) so that was the brunt of the cost. Rest was $80...
So, I wait! But when I do my old box up, it'll be good as 'new'.
Toyota had a leak at the top seal, finally got the genuine Toyota seal...$24.00...Yikes!
But the adapting bracket loosens up in the frame...uses 3/8" std. bolts! (Ford box used 1/2" bolts) Could drill thru adapting bracket and use 1/2" bolts and aircraft locking nuts...Naaah!
Steering was great before the box wore out. Lotsa miles, steering got loose, adjusted and lubed, loosened again (months) Finally got to the 'binding' stage.
Worm was pitted, Ford steering parts were hardened to the point the surface would 'flake' and 'pit'.
Lesson learned...Should have dome this in the first place.
BUT... "Just think...Power steering! And my cool 4 spoke Bell wheel!"
Bell wheel'l fit the stock steering just fine. May have to shorten the shaft 3"...to be cool.

 

Okay, so I made a Command Decision yesterday, let's see what you all think. And if you disagree with my thinking, well, just keep the comments clean.

We've determined that my main problem is my FUBAR steering shaft. Yes, the box is a bit sloppy, but not so bad as to be undriveable. In fact, just last week I did a mostly freeway 80-mile round trip to my in-law's, and the truck did great; I averaged 70-75 the whole way there, and while you have to pay attention to what you're doing, it wasn't some white-knuckle adventure. Was actually quite enjoyable.

After much searching these past few days, I found a reputable used truck parts dealer on eBay who, as fate would have it, was selling an F100 box AND shaft. Definitely used, but complete. The box has some surface rust but appears to be solid. Dealer indicates that it feels a bit loose, but infinitely rebuildable. The shaft is in great condition, splines and threads all present and accounted for. Ninety bucks plus fifty-five for shipping. Done. Sold.

Now, I've never rebuilt a steering box before, but I've got my Ford shop manual, a clean work bench, and most importantly, RESOLVE: I WILL do this. And if worse comes to worst, I still have the box currently residing between my frame rails to have professionally rebuilt, or, buy a remanufactured unit. Let's hear your thoughts.

 

Wow, I've stunned you all into silence either due to my brilliance or my idiocy. Here's hoping for the former.

 

When you get your new eBay box delivered, I would try adjusting it like the factory manual says. Who knows, it may take the slop out of it. If it does, fill it with corn head grease and you are good to go.

 

Make sure the shafts are the same length as I said before. Otherwise, it's just simple parts. A bearing/bushing and gasket/shim kit doesn't cost too much. If the worm and sector roller are good it won't cost too much to rebuild.

 

Will be the first thing I do. Thanks again for the info.

 

Make sure you have all the tools you need, pullers, Big Hammer. it may not have ever been off the truck before. Is hard work but well within your grasp.

 

Most important tool, beer.

 

Having owned and driven those straight axle fords My opinion even with all brand new parts they drive and handle like crap. The 60 thru 64 chevys out drove and out rode the Fords so much it wasn't even close. Forget the stock steering. Do a frame clip or anything to get independent front suspension and maybe power steering and disk brakes.

 

All Wish List Stuff, but also When I Win the Lottery Stuff, as my current funding don’t allow for such extravagances. And I’m honestly already looking for it’s replacement, as I’m desirous of getting back into a passenger car, so who knows how long I’ll even have the truck.

 

Extravances? heck I can buy a tombstone welder and a Camaro subframe for less that the new parts to rebuild the stock front end. I had a 56 ford panel truck. welded the frame clip fron a 65 olds F85 on it. put a Camaro subframe under a 42 ford truck. used a firebird subframe under a 58 ford truck. put a F100 twin I beam under a unicab like yours. None of them cost a great deal of money. With a frame clip you get a entire assembly that is designed to work together. all you need is U joints to couple it to a steering collum. I use a tilt collum. And once you get a independent front suspension the Bump steer is gone forever. I once bought a sawmill from a old guy. He gave me some good advice. He stated sawmilling can be as cheep or as expensive as you want it to be . Ive learned that applies to most other stuff also.

 

I wish I could do that, but here’s the difference between me and most of the rest of HAMB: I don’t own a welder. Or an engine stand. Or an air compressor even. I’ve never welded in my life. I din’t take shop classes in school, I took Physics and Calculus. I was (and I guess still am) a Nerd who happened to like cars. None of my friends knew anything about cars. Hell, I STILL don’t have any friends that know anything about cars. Bottom line, it’s not even in the realm of possibilty that I could take a sub-frame and graft it onto my truck. And I don’t know a soul who could help me do it, either. Anything beyond what I’m talking about doing, ie, rebuilding and replacing a steering box, would have to be performed by a Profe$$ional. I WISH I had the skills of the craftsmen here on the HAMB, what they can do with literally a rusty pile of parts is amazing. But sadly, that ain’t me. I do appreciate the suggestions, though.

 

A lot of getting something no matter what is the want too. Im well aware im in the winter time of my life. and Im still attempting new stuff. Ive learned a lot watching U tube. There Is a Guy Jonathan W. He does unbelievable things with almost nothing.

 

I would suggest you purchase Tardells little book on how to rebuild the F1 100 series steering boxes. You will be surprised how easy it is.

 

You have a box and shaft coming, great. Boxes are rebuildable, just take your time; and pictures. You may need a welder, or someone to weld, to shrink races out. I don't know with your box.
The rebuild is another one of those lessons for the future. Both for building the box, to the realization you can take something apart, and then make it better.
Good luck with the rebuild. I like Old Wolf's suggestions, so get some confidence with these repairs, and get ready for the next modifications.

 

Skills are learnable. How good you can get is limited by innate talent and practice. Equipment and tools are attainable one dollar at a time as you need them or they become available at your price point.

Before you could take Physics and Calculus you had to take Arithmetic and Earth Science in grade school, then Algebra and Geometry in high school. Right now it sounds like you're ready for long division but a little short of fractions. Every skill you learn readies you for a new one, whether it is linear or it takes you sideways. Not becoming "world class" at a skill in no way lessens you.

To get friends who know something about cars you need to go places that car guys go to, cruise-ins and shows. Everybody likes to talk to someone who shows a genuine interest in there stuff. You can stay by yours and talk to people who show an interest. Try joining a club. You will meet people who can help you and provide knowledge. Even if you don't have particular skills you can help them by being the guy who will come and lift or hold the far end of the tape, etc.

In the end it is your truck to enjoy at what ever level you care to. If I were to hazard a guess, I believe most of us do what we do because we enjoy it and/or we are the best we can afford.

 

It’s being purchased today. Thank you for the head’s up!

 

Not until clean up time!

 

Nothing ventured, nothing gained..

Most of us are probably not mathematicians. I know I’m not anyways. Owning and working on our old vehicles is something that we do as a hobby, a passion, an obsession, or maybe a calling.. There is continuous tinkering to be done to thes old relics to make them our own.. You too have stumbled into this field of interest with a desire to have something that most modern people don’t have an interest for.. Welcome to the club brother..!

I just wanted to offer a couple of possible options and or resources to you with regards to your steering shaft issue.
1. Most steering shaft material is 3/4” diameter and there are all kinds of ways to rework a factory column to make it suit your needs. I have early Chevy Nova’s and there are multiple ways to change the front suspensions on these vehicles.. The factory steering boxes probably share more then a few similarities with your F 1 box.. Probably nothing that is directly interchangeable with yours but the concept is the same.. When we modify our front suspensions we need to address how to connect the new steering system to the column and steering wheel. I prefer to retain my factory columns. This means I have to reconfigure the steering shaft to adapt to the new steering box or rack and pinion unit. There are column saver kits on the market to assist with this type of swap. I have not personally purchased a kit but rather I have made my own to accomplish the same objective.. A column saver kit usually supplies a new 3/4” steering shaft, a bushing or bearing to stabilize the new shaft, a collar with set screws, a universal joint, and some sort of column anchor bracket to secure the devorced column to the floor. I have used Timken ER204 bearings or a similar type of bearings in my columns as they are the perfect outer diameter to fit inside my steering column tube and the inner bearing race is 3/4” and has set screws to keep them in place on the shaft.. I have come up with my own methods for supporting the column to the floor.. The Timken bearings I have used are perfect for my column tube but may not be the right diameter for yours as I do not your column tube dimensions.

If the used column you have found is the exact match to the one you have you’re in business.. If the shaft to not the correct length you can consider the information I’ve provided above to asssist with the repairs you need to be operational again.

2. There is a shop here in SoCal called “The Early Ford Store” located in San Dimas, Ca. They are not cheap but if you have a need and they have it sometimes you’ve got to do it to get what you need so you can make progress..

3. I have a couple of go to steering gear rebuilders here to get rebuild boxes and racks from. Both are familiar with older vehicles.

1-C&J Automotive in Southgate, Ca.(562)806-6464

2-All Star Products in Baldwin Park, Ca. (626)954-0095

Best of luck to you.

 

You could also have a professional welder spince the good end of the Ebay shaft to your shaft if the length is not the same.

 

Thanks for the information, I will file this away for future reference.

 

And so it begins.

 

This is a good write up and may be of some help to you. Good luck!
http://www.classicperform.com/tech_articles/TechFordSteeringBox.pdf

 

If you have a Physics background you halfway there; Sheldon Cooper stated, " I'm a physicist. I have a working knowledge of the universe and all that it contains!".

 

Okay folks, I’m stuck. Literally and figuratively.

How the hell do you remove the worm bearing adjuster locknut? Is there a special tool? A trip to the google proved fruitless.

 

Nevermind. I just used my head (and a large hammer and punch) to break it loose. Onward.

 

That’s exactly how I do it


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Guessing some new bearings are in order.

 

If all it needs is those bearings you should count yourself in the luckiest 1 percent. Please keep us up on your progress. Ask any questions you may have.

 

I will, thanks. Now then, these look pretty clean and reusable to me, what say you all?