Technical *** July 2019 Banger Meet - Time 4 Driving ***

Checking in have not been here for a while still put heaps of miles on the old girl

 

I know what ya mean! I feel like small potatoes when I see what these guys're doin.

 

Just came in the mail. I feel like I just got a secret decoder ring.

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You did get the magic decoder ring
Jim does a great job of explaining the main points and reasons for the mods
Jim also mentions some of the influential people who were around Bangers that are not as infamous as some of the others

J

 

I surely admire the work on here. What some of you guys are able to do with a humble flathead four is just amazing. I'm too poor to do that kind of stuff. Mine's all homemade and slapped together. It's running really well lately, though. Any of you following my Shadetree Speedster thread will know I had a time getting a suitable mixture from that 1 3/4" SU carb, finally had to custom make a new needle for it, "by guess and by God". I chucked the right size rod in a cordless drill and roughed out the taper by turning it against a belt sander, then threw it in the lathe and finished it with a file and calipers. It's very similar to a stock needle for a b18 Volvo application, just the least bit larger diameter all along the taper for a little leaner running. Works like a charm so far with the Model B distributor.

 

I do have a short video of it running, but these computer things aren’t old and metal so I’m not good at driving them.
It says the file is too big when I try to post it up.
Sorry.

 

You don't have to go through all the trouble but I usually just upload it to YouTube and then share it from there. If you ever do, I'd love to see and hear it run.

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Hope this works.

 

It did nutrocker and thanks for sharing! Seeing that really makes me want to keep learning about these bangers. It seems the sky is the limit with these things.

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I’m still learning lots about these motors too. This is my first 4 banger, having preferred the V8 flatty in the past, so have made a few mistakes along the way.
I’m not an “engine guy” just a welder, but despite it costing a fortune and still not working properly, I’m really enjoying messing with it.

 

Yea my V8 buddies are always ragging me about it being a waste of money trying to get power out of these bangers when I could just put a V8 in for a lot less and parts be more convenient. But I find the banger a lot more interesting and I believe people who see me out and about also find it more interesting.

Just from my short amount of reading me running a rebuilt motor with V8 clutch and lightened flywheel.
• Touring Grind Camshaft
• Insert Main Bearings
• NEW Insert connecting rods with bearings
• New 6:1 Hi Compression Head
• Larger Intake Valves 1.730 Head Dia.
• FS 6V distributor
• 6V PowerGen
My options of downdraft intake/carb would best be a single Stromberg 97? Running duals on my setup would be too much?

 

Just checking in, have lights now, high and low beam seem to work great, but for some reason the switch won’t go into the park position,(clockwise from off position.

Any thought? I have a new repo loom that I have filed down the connector plate to the thickness of the original. And I’m using a good original switch.

With out the plug install the switch on the steering wheel has full motion but when plug is installed will only go from off round to high beam with positive detent in all positions.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Cheers Craig


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What do you mean by "plug"?
Wiring in an A is very simple, and it helped me a lot, when I did a simple, schematic drawing of it - I have visuel memorative skills, so if I draw somethin, I understand and remember it better. And the positions on the switch is easy to understand too, if you take it apart.

 

I'd go dual with that setup, and make initial adjustments by vacuum, and long term by spark plug colour.

 

Craig,
Had similar problem with mine. Light switch spider P/N A3643 has to be set up properly into switch or it won't turn both ways. Had another that light rod was broken at bottom and wouldn't turn both ways, but did work one way. Good luck. Love the Ute?

 

I can see that the car is a 28-29, BUT do you know what year steering column it has? There are two different length light switch rods for 28-29 and a few more for 30-31, if you don't know you have a matching set you have to carefully mess with the switch and the bale and the rod etc to get it all to work together...mix and match can be a real pita.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/lightswitchrods.htm

 

Was hoping to get the Roadster on the road over the 4th of July but the starter went up in smoke when I tried to start it (literally),my backup had a bent shaft and I couldn't get to my spare motor with the extra starter.

So this weekend I finally got it running and took it around the block. It runs really well. Since this was an unknown motor I am pleased that it doesn't leak any oil or water the first time out.

Now since I am not running in TROG I will be replacing the magneto with either a '32 distributor or a Mallory dual spark I have. The OG powergen generator is not charging through the voltage regulator so I have to go through that and the gas tank is leaking around the gauge slightly. I have the special wrench and a rebuild kit ready to go and I will probably put on a known good alternator until I have time to fool around with generator and regulator, they are both untested, I just threw them on and crossed my fingers.

Working on getting the headlights mounted and wired and I also need to find a windshield frame and stanchions.

 

Hi Dannerr, first of all thanks for the reply.

I’ll clarify on some naming first, I’ve been calling the switch at the bottom of the steering column that is held in with the bail a “plug” and the switch on the steering wheel a “switch” to differentiate them.

So what was doing was splitting the plug and removing the contact disc to ensure I was getting full motion with the switch (park, off, low and high) and I am.

Leaving that half of the plug installed, I fit the contact disc, and back half of plug locking it into place then checking switch and I have (off, low and high) switch feels good going into these positions. But will not go anti clockwise back into park...

Hope that explains my problem

Cheers Craig


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Hi midnight rider, thanks for the reply. Yep it’s a 1928 RPU, which had been cut down from a pheaton well before I go it.

I did wonder if the spider was catching on something... it’s a head mess when it will go one way and not the other... I have checked the light rod and it looks all good and horn functions sweet.

I’ll look at the spider abit closer with half of the switch assembly in place.


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Hi 97 thanks for the reply.

Good spotting, you bang on it’s an early 28 or some call them an AR, and abit of a basket case at that too.

So what I’ve done so far to make all work.

Steering column is original to the car, to the best of my knowledge. As it seems to be with this car the light rod length isn’t listed on your chart... but because I’m using the column and steering box that’s matched to it will it be a problem?

Removed original switch as that was for the single light wiring loom,

Have a new two light loom as well as a good two light switch (plug at bottom of column)

Bail was to short so have removed that, need to order or make a new one.

Horn works fine, low beam work fine and high beam works...... so strange it won’t flick back to park..

Thanks again everyone for reply’s I’ll keep ya posted

Cheers Craig




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Made a 249 mile trip yesterday, roadster ran flawlessly. It was 95° the last couple hours so I stayed around 55 to give the engine a break. Boy, I really need to finish covering the holes around the pedals, etc...it felt like someone was running a heat gun up my legs haha. It was freakin' hot! Oh yeah- got 22.9mpg to boot! I was very happy with the way it performed.

 

https://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/T3643.html

 

Thanks Dannerr for the response.

Well I've always liked speedsters and after reading through rwrj's thread Shade tree Model A speedster kind of thing I decided to pull the trigger on a project. I bought the chassis from under a 1928 Tudor yesterday. The Tudor is getting hot rodded. I have included some pics of the progress of the Tudor now.

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Out driving last week.....

 

Hi Guys,
Making up a little header and intake for my otherwise stock model A, can someone give me dimensions on the carb pad height and distance from the block, towards hood side, from an aftermarket manifold? Any ball park jetting settings for a 97 on a stock banger would be welcome too. Getting my roadster together for racing at the Red Dust Revival at Lake Perkolilli, near Kalgoorlie, Western Australia. Two months to go!

 

Hey Dedsoto- my Burns measures 3-7/8"from block face to center of carb. . 4-1/2" tall from center of port opening to carb pad. If you're near to sea level I would say stock 45 jets and 65 PV is going to be pretty close. Cool header, you'll likely get lots of opinions about which cylinders to split and why but that configuration looks cool....

 

What's the best 12v hi-torque starter motor for a B motor? Thanx

 

I put a 12V set of fields in the '29 'B' starter, it's a B engine. Got them from MAC's. Had to take the torch to heat the screws holding them in to get them to loosen up. Got to pay attention to make sure nothing electrical is touching the thru bolts. It takes a little massaging.
The brushes I took out looked better than the ones that came with the conversion. Reused them
Been using it awhile and starter works fine.
BTW...a 6 volt starter on 12 volts pulls more amperage than a 12 volt on 12 volt.

Good luck

 

Exactly what I was after, Cheers Jet96!

 

My 6V starter on 12V shorted and seized a couple of weeks ago so I bought a Terry Pittman mini starter to try out, not traditional, but at 7lbs it will make a good spare after I get my original back from being rebuilt.