The cup plug in the trans with the threaded hole beside it is where the kickdown cable would go ...what are you doing with the socket ? The cable bracket is reversed , way to close to the throttle shaft ...you've cut your throttle cable to short .. Normally the cable ends up in an "S" shape........AND.......it appears that the top of your tunnel ram is on backwards .....carb base pads are angled to the rear , should be to the front ,....still don't see the inaccessible bolt. ?? You've been waiting for months already , slow down one thing at a time....... Its not real smart to piss off people who are trying to help you , remember that in this case , when it comes to hotrods , YOU'RE the dumbass !!
What a coincident, just last night I started working on my throttle cable. Seems the PO cut the end with the 'nipple' off. I may solder a new one on. I have an rpc s6054 cable. Looks same as Lokar, but is around $30 here; https://butlerperformance.com/i-25678511-universal-throttle-cable-assembly-24-rpc-s6054.html There are a couple others cheaper than Lokar .
i just went through this with my old lokar throttle cable. Seems like once that cable gets frayed, its time to get a new one. i spent way too much time trying to fish that messed up cable end through the tube. I just bought new...done in less than an hour. That "T" brings me back to when i was a little rodder in the 1970s btw-pretty wicked looking car
Hey everyone. I wanted to first appologize to everyone. I wanted to also appologize about the gf comment. I do know i am the Dumbass in this hot rod situation and I apperciate all the input. So i wanted to post a picture up and let me know what you guys think. First i got the bolt out. I removed all the brackets and i flipped the throttle bracket. I flip the throttle bracket and put the throttle sleeve in place. I dont think the throttle cable is going to be able to pull the carbs properly because of how much I had to bend the throttle sleeve. Inside my T is a basic gas peddle. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chrome-Steel-and-Billet-Aluminum-Throttle-Pedal,3410.html I wanted to get your guys input on this. I wanted to know if you think ill be able to get the throttle cable to pull the carbs properly with the throttle sleeve bent as much as it is? Btw the throttle cable bracket is touching the gas line but there's no pressure being applied. Everything fits very snug. Thanks again everyone for all the help and the input
If you are setting it up this close to the firewall, then the thing to do would be to have enough length on the cable to do a loop to accommodate the flex you will need and it will work without the possibility of binding. r Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Just be patient and keep asking questions, don’t rush. It’ll work out. r Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Can you post a shot of your valve covers? Just the corner shot looks neat. r Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Hey guys. Wanted to get an opinion. Do you guys I'm think gonna have an issue with the throttle cable pulling the carbs? Thanks everyone.
As Raven said. Get a longer cable and put a loop in it. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yes, that is way too much kink. A big gentle loop will work much smoother. Or, as said way up above, have the linkage go straight out and pull on the front carb. They are hooked together in unison (or at least should be), and they don't care if you are hooking the linkage to one or the other. Also, once you get the linkage all hooked up and start driving this thing, you may find that is a whole lot of carburetor for a little 283. But that's a problem for another day.
I wired the cable through and it worked out. Even though the hose is bent pretty well. It functions properly. I did have to cut one side down because it was going to far into the fire wall.( screw par) Both carbs completley open at the same time. I drove it . And it worked out. If it was bent anymore i don't think the cable would be able to pull the carbs. To be honest it does feel a little tough but it definitely works. The pedal is kinda tight but it does open the carbs all the way. I started another thread because the coolant puked out of the T after i drove it for about 40 min.
The pedal and cable action should be silky smooth. What you've achieved is sufficient to maybe test the car out but it's not a permanent solution. That tough stainless cable is like a file and it's pressed firmly against the hard wearing but not indestructible ptfe lining of the cable outer. It's going to wear with every single movement of the pedal (you've already felt that!) and this is likely to make it snag with potentially lethal consequences. Hey, you might get lucky and only get stuck at the roadside! A longer cable with a gentle, full circle loop (which will look kinda odd imo) or putting the new bracket to the front carb as have both been advised (and seemingly ignored, or at least disregarded). I'm not buying the bolt accessibility issue either. It's been assembled, it can be disassembled. Sometimes the longer road is the only way, you seem to be a shortest route guy! The Lokar TH350 kickdown cable will bolt to the lower part of your new bracket, but I suspect it might not clear if you don't put the existing bracket on the front carb. A ¬- shaped hook goes into the trans end in the larger hole. That hole looks to be plugged somehow - I dunno if they ever came undrilled, I don't know that much about transmissions - but it looks to be more than painted over. Chris
Well said Happy, Two things the Lokar cable doesn't like: 1) tight bends 2) heavy pull tension Violate either of these and it will fail Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I got to the bolt a while ago* If i make the front carb my main carb do i have to do anything special to the front carb? I know its a tight bend but it works well. Its almost silky smooth. However it does have a slight roughness to it. The Pedal feels a little tight but it opens carbs all the way. Do you mind illustrating this loop you speak about. Its hard to know the loop if you never had an old car before Thanks
Looking at it again the proximity of the cable upper end to the firewall is such that there will be a tight bend even with a loop - but you currently have 2 sharp bends so that would be an improvement! But you'd by getting a new, longer cable, so you'd be better putting that to the front carb. If the carbs work simultaneously together I'm not seeing there being a 'main' carb, just 2 that work together. The fixed link between them will remain - the carbs won't know who is pushing or pulling who! The 'main carb' thing comes from applications whereby the majority of low power / cruise action is taken care of by the main carb, but when it's fun time the others(s) come in to play. A progressive linkage makes this happen. In those circumstances the carbs will probably have different jettings and power valves. Seems you have a pair of identical twins that operate together. Chris
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