Technical Headliner build ‘54 dodge truck ‘how not to’

Hi Gene! I was looking at the A-pillar/windshield posts and it’s funny I didn’t understand the body lines in them until I started studying a photo while thinking about how to make them. I had it in my head that they would need a piece of ABS curved around a buck to cover properly.

Looking closer it seems the A-pillar cover is a flat piece that tucks into the body lines. I think I will make those today or soon and re-drill to keep my stainless screw/finish washer thing going. They will be wrapped in plain black vinyl and butt up snug to the over window pieces.

The corners behind the door/B-pillars I want to leave open I think? It’s a nice spot where I can stash a tool roll or something later, especially since I lost the under seat storage when I channeled the body.

But the area below the roof lip and above the seat I am not sure about. It is a wierd spot because the lip juts into the cab farther than the reinforcement bar behind/above the seat. I’m not sure if I would do the diamond pleat, or plain wrap. The thin pieces above and below the window are tricky too- do I make it in two pieces left and right? Or three pieces with a plain vinyl window surround and a plush diamond wrap for the corners?

I’m open to suggestions for sure but for now I’m just stoked on the headliner, insulation, and lights. Totally changed the ride from raw to more refined but still rowdy.

 

Hi Jazz & thanks!

It looks like you were also fortunate to have intact double structure with holes for buttons? I used a thick clear sheet of plastic (I have a roll somebody gave me) to trace out the shape for the door cards and was able to perfectly mark all the stock screw holes. All the door lip holes for the headliner side pieces were new drilled holes I didn’t re-use the stock ones. So no fancy tricks there.

That shape on yours looks wierd and asymmetrical laid out in the first pic. Is that front notch gone in the final install or hiding behind the sun visor and I can’t see it?

The pattern doesn’t have to be hard if you piece it together with poster board and tape and start by taping pieces up all along the edges- like cutting in when painting a wall. Use plenty of tape so it is one piece when you’re done. That method allows you to use the factory paper edges to get super straight lines when you need them too. Sometimes I’ll use 11x17 typing/copy paper and rub it with a dirty leather glove on to make a rubbing picture of all the holes and details I will need to transfer over into metal or whatever. You can also wrap complicated things in seran or tinfoil, tape over that, and draw your seams in marker before cutting out your pattern like for complicated seat covers or a console or bracket.

Trying to trim a giant piece smaller and smaller until it fits sucks. My ABS panel was close thanks to my pattern of its footprint but since it was curved and had to snap in tight I made it big and had to sneak up on it while trimming. It wouldn’t have been so bad except it’s soo hot and I work mostly in the driveway.

 

Here’s an idea to finish the back- plain wrap around the window with diamond corners.

 

F inished the A-pillar covers

 

The A covers look good. I also like the plan for the B pillars and rear window surround.
Those B pillars are going to be real tough for me, I have the corner windows. The inner metal structure actually curves towards the outer body from the door post as it goes towards the corner window, a couple inches behind the door. I may have to buy an interior kit then cover it. Gene

 

I’m procrastinating on the rear surround. Gonna enjoy driving it for a bit and maybe get busy again next week. The interior lights came out good.

 

Are you using the stock seat?


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Yes the stock seat and frame but recovered with some simple stitching detail to make it a little fancier. The floor and seat pedestal are all not stock- it’s channeled down some.

 

I threw in a chrome strip to finish the bottom rear edge of the headliner. The stock roof lip/flange was kinda ratty in spots. I didn’t know if it would look cheesy but it tucks in good and matches the handles and stainless brightwork.

 

Looks good, nice work


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Thanks man!

I’d love to see your fargo! Is it basically an exported power giant? Do you have a thread on here with build pics?

 

Lets see if this works.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/its-alive-a-1957-fargo-tale.1068494/

 

Oh and the Fargos are the export version of the Dodge trucks, other than the name they are the same

 

Cool. I enjoyed your thread but I’m curious about your little pic by your name on your posts- same green but with flames and a stepside?

I installed doorjam plunger style switches and ran them to my 3 way switch on the dash. Now I can have them on only when a door’s open, full off, or full on.

It was super fancy to take the family to see fireworks in the truck tonight. Beach chairs and refreshments in the back, and lights on when the door is cracked open.

Happy 4th guys

 

It is a photo shop where I was headed, since changed the box still want to do flames when it gets paint again. Your switch is exactly what I did on mine.


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Chrome trim strip looks good, breaks up all the black nicely.

 

Hey I made some more progress- I did the rear surround above the seat and made plain vinyl wrapped flat pieces off the door lip. Not much more left to do unless I decide to finish dressing the B pillars. Kick panels are also a possibility but I dunno the stock area is already cool looking with beads rolled into it.

I’m also considering upholstering the console/trans tunnel/firewall for more heat insulation but I’m not sold on that idea.

 

Where did you get the chrome strips from?


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Hello , would like to know where you purchased the contact in gallon cans , my source now only has five gallon pails .

 

The strips and the DAP weldwood landau were both off amazon. Probably didn’t get an amazing price but hey free shipping. The chrome is ‘good’ cheesy stick on exterior flexible chromed vinyl or rubber- came in a 12’ box for like $20 iirc. It had good 3m tape already on the back and plastic protective film on the front so it’ll be clean after install.

The gallon of DAP was like $50 and a $25 1.8 tip siphon gun to go with it. The gun I’ve kept hanging in the shop full of glue and it hasn’t clogged yet- just connect the air and glue like a pro I love it.