Hello everyone, I am a brand new hot rod owner. I recently purchased a 1920 model T. It was built by a body shop (not gonna advertise the shop's name). The first day I drove the T the throttle cable came out. The throttle cable was threaded at the tip. I spoke with the shop owner, all he said was it might of been his fault and don't I know someone that can drill a bigger hole for the cable so that it can be held down tighter. I then asked him the brand of the throttle cable setup, he said it was Lokar. He also mentioned that he wished he lived closer. I looked up the brand on speedway and found the cable. I then attempted to change the cable. I use to ride motorcycles until I got into a really bad accident, I worked on my own bike and pretty much built a 98 cbr f3 from the ground up. When I put the cable through the holder destroyed the cable. The holder , I believe it was damaged from the inside because it also look like metal came out of it. I was able to cut the wire and try again but some metal came out the holder and destroyed the wire again. I then take a look at the setup on the carbs. I notice that the first carb puller(I apologize I do not know the proper name) was being held by a bent pin. This thing could of popped out at any time while I was driving it. I wanted to know if I could get everyone's help. I think my best bet is to buy a new throttle cable setup, I saw this one on speedway: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Loka...Duo-Pak-Hi-Tech-Throttle-Cable-Kit,97514.html I also needed help figuring out what I should for the back carb pin. Is there a bolt and pin I can purchase from somewhere? Or should I get something like this instead ? https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Loka...rogressive-Linkage-Kit-6-3-8-6-3-4,27990.html I need some professional help with this one. Thanks in advance everyone. By the way I want the safest route so I don't experience the throttle cable coming loose again.
If the housing is kinked, the cable will have trouble going through. Why not install both new? Also, the last photo, the washer is too small and leaves slop, get a bigger washer to flush out the shoulder and then use the smaller washer...something looks bent and cut off there? That needs to be looked at.....
Yes. I'm going to replace the entire throttle cable with the housing. I found one on speedway that I believe will work. Lokar XTC-1000EFI Midnight Series EFI Hi-Tech Throttle Cable https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Loka...-Series-EFI-Hi-Tech-Throttle-Cable,97761.html I wanted to get more help on the throttle linkage. I was thinking about changing it to one I found on speedway. The Part # 491101. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Loka...rogressive-Linkage-Kit-6-3-8-6-3-4,27990.html Would this work on my holley carb 600 cfm setup? Or should i just get a bigger washer to fix the bar thats already on there? Thanks again
I see a whole bunch wrong, where you located? It sounds like you don't have any real experience and there may be a Hamb'r near you to get you straightened out. I don't think there's enough throttle cable to open the carb to wide open throttle and the 'Progressive' linkage rod needs to go to a different hole (on the front carb) closer to the axis so that both carbs come to wide open throttle at the same time. Being the firewall is so close and binding the throttle cable I'd make the front carb Primary, replace the existing hose for the throttle cable and run new cable inside it then you can use the normal lokar mounting bracket, reverse the rod bewteen the carbs and it should all fall in place. Eliminate that unused throttle return spring bracket.
the frayed end of cable is a common thing to happen can happen when sliding cable through the "bullet"shaped end that attaches to carburetor, and tightening down set screw - once it gets screwed up may have to restart process with new wire cable, unless there is enough existing cable - go to lokar.com and look down list under Support heading where there are instructions / contact that should help figure this out - post more pics of your "T"
Thank you for the information. This helps me out alot. I am from orange, New Jersey. The throttle cable definitely looked very short to me. Do you think i'll be able to use the parts that i currently have or do you think i'll need to purchase a new Progresive linkage rod? The progressive linkage rod was being held by that metal pin on the front end. Also is there anyway you can help me out and draw a diagram on how the linkage should look with the front carb as the primary carb? ( Sorry for being a pain ) . Any type of diagram would help me out. I was thinking about reaching out to holley to see if they had a solution to the linkage. I really appreciate the help. I have only driven my T one time since i purchased it June 21st 2019. Hurts my soul. Thanks everyone for the input
I might be able to mock something up, it'll be tomorrow. Perhaps others will be able to post before then. Have a look at the progressive linkage offered by Edelbrock? Its Kit# 7094 (maybe 7904, wonky memory), note how the bars attach at different heights on the carbs, the one in th epic looks backwards to me but you should get the point. What gives me pause and need to mock it up is that the rods may not be long enough to do a pair of Holleys, although it should be the same as Edelbrocks. I'm working on one set now and would send pics of it but the Primary carb is the rearmost carb and has lots of room to the firewall with mechanical linkage. Look up the Edelbrock piece (google it and then check 'images')
Thanks oj. I appreciate the help. I googled the image. It kinda make sense to me . But i would have to get two really long rods. If i did that I think I would run into the gas line. Would it be possible to move the line to the other side? Could i flip that part of the carb somehow so it takes fuel on the other side? My carbs are holley FR 1850-12. If i made the front carb my main carb, does that only mean the throttle cable is connected to it or would i have to do something else to make the front carb my main carb? I only ask this because i don't think i have enough space to make the back one my primary, because the throttle cable would be too short and i wouldn't be able to open them all the way. I added a few more photos to the bottom. Thanks for the help. Hopefully i can get my T going soon.
You can still use the rod connecting the front & rear carbs, its looks simple & efficient. I'd be making the front carb the primary and then things will start falling into place, I think you can use the Lokar SRK4001 cable bracket on the front carb and just reverse how the 'progressive' linkage rod works. Once you get that sorted out then you can work on refinements like making the rod work the secondary carb so they both come to WOT at the same time and redoing the fuel lines so they compliment the carbs & intake. One step at a time.
Hey oj. Had a question for you. I started working on taking the linkage apart. I wanted to know with the lokar bracket SRK 4001 That would mount on the center bracket correct ? I circled it in the picture. And are the current brackets removable? I see different 3 different brackets but they are bolted into the carberator. It looks like it would be difficult to do because i see a bolt that i wouldnt be able to get to. Do you recommended leaving these brackets alone? Or is it possible to remove the current brackets and reorder them so the throttle bracket is in the middle. Thanks I apperciate all the help
Also do I need a kickdown cable? It currently doesnt have one. Where would i attach the kick down cable? Thanks again
Get a new cable assy , it will have to be cut to length , get a new cable bracket , the one you have is mounted in the wrong place . You do NOT want or need progressive , a simple rod with 2 ends will run the carbs 1to1 as they should be , and get return spring( s) that will actually return the throttle shafts , that spring , as mounted , is doing nothing . Come visit the NTBA Facebook page , lots of tbuckets and thier owners there to help ..
Kickdown cable depends on what transmission you have and how you want it to operate ..AND , post the list numbers off those carbs .It helps to know what you have ..
The T has 1963 chevy 283 engine.holly carbs.mallory unilite distributer.the transmission is a chevy turbo 350
Tunnel rams don't work well with primary and secondary carbs (aka progressive linkage) they need to open at the same time and rate. Denny
Denny, are you my girlfriend? You sound just like her..... why don't you help me out with a solution, instead of just telling me what i can't do. Its almost been a month without me driving my T. Come on
Look at Jegs 15795 linkage to connect the 2 carb together Again , what transmission do you have ? It makes a difference as to which throttle cable setup you need .....
Could this work for my linkage ? Edelbrock 7097 Throttle Linkage Kit, Dual Quad, Inline Mount https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Edel...nkage-Kit-Dual-Quad-Inline-Mount-,110580.html
If you want it to " kick down" , then you need a cable , if not, it will shift ok on it's own , personally , I'd rather have it ...you're call..
For the transmission . I was told when i want to pass someone i should push down on the shift knob and put it into second. I was told i can shift it back one more time into 3rd. Its a automatic transmission with a manual choke on the carbs
Ok, sorry about all the questions everyone. I want to make sure I'm correct. If someone could correct me, i would appreciate it. Because of the space that I have from the fire wall to the carbs, i have to make my front carb the main carb. To make the front carb the main carb. I have to purchase a bracket (Lokar SRK4001) and mount that bracket to the first carb but on the rear part of the first carb. Where currently there is a bracket mounted. The throttle cable and the kick down cable mounted onto the same bracket. The throttle cable would be mounted closer to the top where the linkage is and the kick down would be attach to the lower part . My question is. Where does the kick down end go to? How does it connect to my transmission? Could I make the rear carb the kick down carb and make the front carb my main for the throttle? Is that possible to mismatch? Also , how would i remove the brackets if i can't reach one of the bolts? There is a bolt that i can't get any leverage to take it off. So does someone have a good technique to remove the bolt? Just so everyone knows: My carbs : 1850 holley carbs 600 cfm manual choke 4 barrel Transmission: chevy turbo 350 automatic ( 3 speed i believe) small block If anyone needs more information on the transmission or anything else. Please let me know what i need to ask the autobody shop that sold it to me. So please type out the question so i can ask the guy who put the T together. Again, Thank you everyone for all the info
I just did a Google search. Connection at the carb: The top cable would be your throttle cable and the bottom cable is the kick down. The kick down is pulled from the bottom of the carb linkage. Connection at the transmission: The kick down cable is the black one on the passenger side. It goes into the transmission.
Could I make the rear carb the kick down carb and make the front carb my main for the throttle? Is that possible to mismatch? Also , how would i remove the brackets if I can't reach one of the bolts? There is a bolt that i can't get any leverage to take it off. So does someone have a good technique to remove the bolt? Thanks again
I was looking up kick downs for the TH350 and found this article: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/pit-stop-automatic-trans-kickdown-cables-really-needed/ Maybe just get your throttle cable fixed and see how it drives before doing any work on it that might not be needed. Is that you bucket on your profile picture? Got any more pictures?
There is no reason you can't run cables off the rear carb , I've done it as well as many others . Pictures of these in accessable bracket would help . You're making this way too hard ....
Hey Thanks for the input. I will put more photos up of my T once i have washed it and fixed it up. The first thing that i did was try just the throttle cable. The throttle cable was was destroyed by the metal holder for the throttle cable. The main reason i am making the front carb my main carb is because there is no space between the firewall and the back carb. When i cut the throttle cable for the rear carb. The cable was about 10 inches long. I attached a picture to the bottom of the space i have. I put a socket on top of the end of the cable. The socket is a normal socket. It leaves about two inches but that still without the throttle cable holder linkage part that attaches to the carb and holds the throttle cable. So it would leave less then a inch of cable exposed. I am going to do this without the kickdown cable to see how it works first. I was asking about the kickdown because i already have everything apart. And i feel like it would be easier attaching it now then later. I took a picture and left it at the bottom. It looks like the throttle cable kickdown on the transmission is painted over. I wanted to get someones input on this. Is it actually painted over or? Looking at the kickdown transmission on google it shows that the kickdown cable is in the transmission located in the hole. I wanted to get input on this. Is it painted over? Is that the place where the kick down goes? There is a single bolt next to it but i didnt think that was it because of the previous research.
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