Hope this falls in the right spot. I apologize if it’s not. So I’ve decided to try and get into an old pickup. I prefer the mid 30’s. I like the transition between the squared bodies to the rounded cabs. Anyways, I’ve found a few good starters, one of which is a 36’ or 37’ish Chevy cab. Interestingly, of all the trucks I’ve seen, the 36 to 38’s are few and far between. The cab I’m looking at looks straight with little to no rust. It has no doors and no dash, just a bare bones cab and fenders ($300). I’ve also sourced a second set of front fenders, doghouse, and doors that look solid, with maybe a few dings here and there($350). I’d like to build a 50’s style rod from era’ish available parts. Keep her low, clean lines, simple. Not a rat rod, not a flashy expensive hot rod. So my next thought process is trying to decide if I pull the trigger on this (with the wardens permission), do I build a frame out of tube, Chevy frame (can’t seem to find one), or ford frame? What type of front end should I use? Drop Chevy or Ford? I know I don’t like a ton of bars up front ( radius arms and linkages) and want to keep it clean looking (no s-10, no mustang 2). I like it low and mean looking, but driveable (5-6”). I’d like to keep the bed space if I can so no crazy Z frame or L. I’ve read the 37’s already have a nice channel for the frame so no more channeling but maybe, depending on how the rest goes, a mild chop? Trying to get my ducks in a row to see if it’d be worth it or keep waiting. Your guys’ experience and plethora of knowledge is highly respected, so any input (even the smart ass kind) is taken with much respect. Especially since I’m new at this. Thanks in advance
No pictures? I would suggest that you start with a complete truck instead of just a bare cab. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
My advice is if you want a 1936 or 1937 Chevrolet truck start with a complete truck rather than someone else's throw away sheet metal. So save those pennies. When you find the right truck be prepared to get it. It might be 1500 miles away. Seek and Ye shall find. There's no free pass. The more desirable a truck, the longer search.....the more dough.
My buddy when I was a kid built a 37 Chevy 1/2.He ran a 327 backed by a floor shift 3speed,and a Pontiac rearend.He put 49-54 Chevy car spindles,and brakes on the original axle to get better brakes.It sat high in front.You could get the axle dropped to take care of that.As I recall he cooled it with the original radiator.He was 17 when he built it so it was mostly bolt together since he didnt have a long back ground in hot rodding.He did drive it from San Francisco area up to northern Idaho once so it was a cruiser.
Many people have built hot rods one piece at a time. Start collecting the parts and soon enough you will have a full truck. Plus your'e in SoCal....should be easy to find. If those parts are as you describe you can easily flip them for more $ as well......
The '36.5 -'37-'38 all use the same basic sheet metal, from 1/2 ton on up, fenders change when going 1 ton or bigger. Frames change after 1/2 tons. Beds are unique but any step side could be made to work, rear fenders are narrow, front fenders in steel are hard to find, windshield frames rust out and are expensive, original grills in good shape are not available! Finding a complete truck would help, even if it's a 1 ton or bigger. Same year car parts do not interchange, gauges in the basic car about the only parts the two shared.
I would agree starting with a whole truck would be the best way to start. Know your skill level and how much effort you are willing to put into your build. 37 Chevy has always been one of my favorites. I have had several 37 Chevy cars and trucks and still have my chopped 37 Sedan I built in the 80's. After that I built a 37 Chevy Custom Kingcab truck that my Son now owns. To do it I ended up with 3 parts trucks and a lot of miscellaneous interchangeable parts from 36, 37 and 38 trucks. One of the biggest problems with old trucks is if they were used as trucks, the bodies can be in rough shape. It took me a long time and was a real learning experience. I had to fabricate a lot of things I could not find or that did not fit my design and once I got it to a driving phase, I never fully finished it but I did have years of fun and a ton of miles while I owned it. To this day the truck still has most of the red oxide primer I put on when I was planning to paint the truck. At cruises while my friend cleaned there cars with fancy cleaners and waxes, I washed the bugs and dirt off the old truck with dollar store glass cleaner. Best of luck on whatever choice you choose for your build.
36 low cabs still have wood in the A pillars and dash rail. If the cab your looking at is a 37-38 you can transfer the steel structure over to a 36 cab and save a lot of fabrication work. There are a lot of subtle differences between 36 and later cabs so not all parts will interchange. The 35-36 frame is also different from a 37. Like others have said it will be cheaper to buy a complete truck, but its good to have lots of spares so personally I would buy the cab, fenders and doors if they are in good shape. Im building a 36 chevy and started with a complete cab and front clip and so far I have pieces from 4 different trucks (including an almost complete parts truck) and Im still missing a few parts. If you do end up with a complete truck you can use the stock suspension and have the axle dropped, posies makes lowering springs for the front and rear. You can adapt early 50s chevy car brakes(5 bolt), or if you want to keep it 6 bolt, 53-54 chevy truck bendix brakes to the front axle(or use a complete hub to hub 47-54 chev axle) Sent from my SM-G950W using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I appreciate the replies! Decided to pull the trigger on these. Figured too good to pass up on. Ended up getting the cab and a set of fenders for $250. The fenders are pretty rough, but the cab looks like it was went over pretty good, with only a few dings from moving it I suspect. Got the doors, doghouse, and front fenders for $240. Doors were solid but had rust on the lower inside panels and internal parts are rusted for sure. Fenders are salvageable I think? Doghouse light mount was broke and front edge tweaked a touch. All in all, I think good for extra parts or to flip. Between the cab and doors, there’s a full set of hinges, minus the pins. The cowel vent works (a little rough) and there’s only one spot of rust on the back of the cab. Ran the numbers on the “Vin” tag. She’s a 38 out of Oakland. #12,258 ( I think 2HC12 258).
I found a video of this truck online. While I don’t like the Cadillac’ish custom bed and the severe chop, I like the profile of the truck. For me, it looks like a 50’s style rod, which is what I’d ultimately like to do. It’s simple, low, but all there without the rat rust. Would a build like this fit in the traditional forum, if I moved towards this type of build? Is it more custom or all rat?
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