I'm new to Cadillac engines but I've got this 1955 331 I am putting in a '40 Ford. This motor originally had four heater hose nipples, two for heat and two for the hydramatic. One on the block at the rear under cylinder 8, one at the rear of the water pump, and two off the side of the water pump. Which ones are the pressure and which are the return side on this, I'll need to plug off two of them. Can the nipple on the side of the block be unscrewed and replaced with a pipe plug? Underneath that there is what appears to be an oil line that has a check valve in it. Is this the supply or return oil line for the oil filter, or something else? Moriarity was kind enough to take some pictures of his setup but I believe his is an earlier engine so some things are a little different. Speaking of oil lines, I have this loop on top going from the block to the oil filler tube. My initial thought was this is the oil filter pressure and return until I saw the other fitting on the back of the block I just mentioned... This is an obvious one I hope, it has a wcfb that I will likely rebuild and run. I assume this vacuum pot is for an air conditioned car to increase the idle speed, or possibly a dashpot for the hydramatic. Either way I think it's safe to remove it... Speaking of the carb, what's the best way to hook up this choke? I have a good heat riser that bolts to the passenger exhaust manifold, but my manifold and heat riser don't have a provision for a tube. I'd like to get away from the heat riser if possible. That should get me started for now. Thanks for any help!
The fitting with the check valve is a vacuum line originating from a pump attached to the oil pump. It can be plugged.
The original bypass oil filter has been removed and replaced with the loop of tubing from the block to the oil filler tube. I'll have to dig out my '55 shop manual to check on the heater hose routing...
From the '55 shop manual supplement: Automatic Heating System; "The water flows from the upper right side of the water pump to the thermostatic control valve, from the control valve to the right and left heater cores, and then to the water pump intake. On cars equipped with transmission oil coolers, coolant is taken from the right rear of the engine block, flows through the cooler and returns to the intake side of the water pump through a "T" connection at the pump."
Awesome thank you! Now I just have to remove that fitting from the block. I can also plug that vacuum line down there and hook up the oil filter properly. I found electric choke kits for the wcfb so that should be the way to go.
If that thing is equipped with an automatic transmission of the same era, and you plan to drive it when the ambient is below 40 degrees and an electric choke; remember to drink TWO cups of coffee after starting in the morning BEFORE you put the transmission in gear. Alternately, have your cell phone in your pocket to call the tow truck. Electric chokes were invented long before 1955. There is an excellent reason why the car manufacturers chose NOT to use them. Much better to fabricate a "heat stove" to attach to your exhaust manifold, and retain the original heat choke. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Heatstovefabrication.htm Jon
Thanks. Maybe I'll look more into the heat stove idea. For what it's worth I have an electric choke on an o/t 60's car that's never given me trouble. With this one I'm retaining the '40 Ford column shift and rear. Want to by a hydramatic?
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