Technical Oil on my spark plug threads - '56 Ford Fairlane, 292 Y block

Tried to start a recent rebuild of my '56 Ford Fairlane, 292 Y block, but it would not start. Checked the plugs and they have oil on the ends as well as the threads. The head gaskets are brand new and installed correctly.... I'm guessing my rings are bad - they are the only thing I didn't replace in the build. Im going to take the heads off to see what's going on... Any other guesses as to why oil is on my plugs/threads?

 

There's oil because it didn't start?

Seriously....oil on spark plug threads is kind of normal, and is not the cause of it not starting. But if there is not enough compression, then it won't start. how about performing a compression test, first? that's where I'd start. Then I'd make sure it was getting spark and fuel, and if it still wouldn't start, I'd see about installing a set of fresh clean spark plugs.

But start at the beginning...compression test

 

Thanks, oil was on the ends of the plug as well... not just the threads, if my compression is bad, then where do I go from there?

 

How can a "rebuild" not include fresh rings and bore hone? Jus' sayin'.

 

it was just a "top end" rebuild. Im not a mechanic-didn't want to get in too deep :|

 

Yep, and being cheap is now going to cost you. Do a compression check per Squirrel's suggestion, but my guess is you got some major blow by and that will show up in the compression check. Most likely you will need a set of rings and a hone job, if not an all out bore and larger pistons.

 

It is a good idea to figure out what's wrong with an engine, before doing too much work to it. But at least you dove in, and did something. Now you might get to do more.

Again, start at the beginning, with diagnosis.

 

I remember when a valve job was a routine procedure. Many times the increased Compression , [ or vacuum ] would suck oil past the worn rings.

Ben

 

Or it just got the engine running well enough that you could see the other problems, that it had all along?

 

Its work but you can re-ring with the engine in the car. Get an overhaul manual for your year. I had the pan off my 56 by putting the crank in a certain spot. All the Pistons can come out the top.
When you had the heads off you could have checked cylinder wall taper but it sound like you didn't and it will dictate where to go.
Y-blocks are a different breed of cat and assembly a little different. An old machine shop may or may not have someone who know and is familiar. Central Ca. and Central Texas have 2 of the best....YBlocksforever.com is also a go to site. Good luck..

 

This sounds like what I dealt with when I was a kid making two bucks an hour. Use what little money I had to rebuild the top end only to get it right and then find the bottom worn out too. Done a few under the car re-ring jobs....good times...not.

 

Compression test is always page 1 para 1 in the tune-up manuals. Gauges used to cost a fair amount, they are inexpensive now.

Loosen the spark plugs, and then re-seat them just kinda snug. Warm the engine up, take a short drive and get the engine at normal operating temperature. Idling can't do this. Bring it home and remove all the spark plugs. Block open throttle and choke on the carburetor all the way. Need a freshly charged battery in good condition.

Spool over the engine with a remote starter switch so you can observe the gauge. Record each cylinder compression using the same # of "puffs" it takes to reach the high number, say 5. A stock Y-block is low compression, but 150 psi would be right in there what you want to see for every cylinder.

Your engine has solid lifters and valve lash is kind of tricky to set until some experience. If they are too tight the compression will be indicate low.

 

Engine does not start at this point, so the compression test will be on a cold engine. Will that affect compression numbers?

 

It won't effect it enough to matter at this point...you are just trying to figure out why it won't run

 

Question do you get a lot of oil past the rings just cranking an engine with the starter?

 

Normally I would say no. However if the valves had reciently been don't and you have lips instead of piston rings the vacuum could draw a bit of oil when cranking.

 

Yes the OP could do a in frame ring job like Squirrelis doing with his Hudson. However since its a Y block. I think the engine should be pulled. the cam bearings should be replaced. the block vatted and all sludge & gunk removed. new core plugs. timing chain and oil pump rear seal ect. Myself I would want to swap for a FE or small block engine.

 

Old Wolf is well known for his love of the Y-block. LOL

 

I pulled the 292 out of the edsel to do the rings on it...good thing I did, it needed cam bearings, as he said.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/y-block-overhaul.1017969/

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Yes Im not fond of Y blocks. started out with them in 56 fords and a 55 pickup. I could go faster cheeper by swapping in a FE. However the FE in a 56 is a tight fit and the stock exhaust is very restrictive, A 302 or 351 is probably a better choice today. They weren't available when I was a teen, Heck they had not even been made yet. If the OP,s block and pistons are good enuf fer a ring job that's a good option. If it needs bored. a engine swap becomes more cost effective.

 

I curious is you 56 a stick or a automatic.

 

I once did a valve job on a '57 Olds at the owners request. Next day he was back with the rods knocking. Must not have had any compression before the valve job.

 

What I don't understand is, that you have oil on all your plugs, and the engine has not run yet? Has it even fired? If it hasn't, go back to the beginning.
Turn the engine until you have top dead center on the compression stroke. Check that your distributor rotor is pointing to the number 1 spark plug. If you have pulled the distributor as part of this job, it is easy to re-install it one or two teeth out, or even 180 degrees out of position. Check the point clearances. Check the rotation of the rotor, and make certain that you have replaced the spark plug wires in the proper firing order.
When you did the partial rebuild, did you replace the valve seals and check the valve guides for wear? Did you replace the timing chain, and if so, did you insure that the markings on the gears were properly aligned?
Check that you have spark, by turning the engine over with the plug grounded, to see if you have spark. If not, this could be that the points are oxidized, or that the condensor is internally shorted or open, and needs to be replaced. The points should be filed to remove the oxidation, or replaced. You don't have to replace points all the time, if you buy a diamond file and remove the oxidation periodically.
I would be a little surprised to see oil on all the plugs, but think that would be from any damage necessarily, and certainly shouldn't stop the engine from firing. You might try putting a small shot of gas, or ether, in the carb then attempt to start it.
I agree with the others, first do a compression check. Because the engine hasn't run, one way to make certain that each cylinder will read correctly, would be to spray some light oil into each cylinder before turning it over. This will help seal the rings, and give you the highest reading.
I have never had a problem getting an engine started, even with fouled plugs.
My experience with Y blocks, is that because I bought worn engines, I had a problem getting oil to the heads , but they always started and ran well.
This sounds like a problem with an easy solution.
This should be enough to start you in the right direction.

Bob

 

Because the engine hasn't been run this would not apply. I tank the heads and do my own head work but before I did you would be surprised how many times I found grinder stone grit in the ports. Ports were not cleaned after seats ground. This also goes for oil passages in crank after it's been turned.

 

@j-jock has some great stuff to look over for you. Maybe you know this, but there was a fella over on another forum who couldn't get his engine to fire. Or maybe it was here I dunno. Anyway he was eyeballing the distributor rotor to point at the #1 spark plug, not the distributor cap terminal. Hm.

 

Not a lot but enough that the threads are coated, the plug is wet and if I place a finger in the plug area I get a finger full... although the piston top looks dry, so it seems its seeping up from the bottom edge of the piston top. gonna do a compression test this week and if i have to, take off the heads to see what I have going on.

 

automatic

 

Has it ever ran while you've owned it?? I agree with the idea, get it running first, and see what's what. Plenty of time to tear it apart.

 

Ok now do you know if the transmission is any good? If after spending time and money fixing the engine the Trans poops out. can you fix it. can you afford to pay someone to fix it? Get a 57 or later dist. put new points and get it working. then remove all the hot wires fron the solenoid. run a hot wire to the coil from a 12 volt battery and hook two 12 volt batterys in series so you have 24 volts to the starter. They should crank it fast enuf to start it . I would get it running first to be certain the trans is good before spending a lot on the engine. If I lived close I would come & help you.

 

If you are thinking pull start it should not mater that trans will have a rear pump.