Hot Rods Right stuff vs. Rtv gasket makers.

I tried the aerosol can once, it was a disaster, I only buy it in the caulk gun tubes anymore. I also stash it in the refrig between uses, keeps it going longer. Plug the end and stash in a zip lock bag.

 

The smallest aerosol was like $17... 2 uses out of it, have to see if it has any life left in it.

 

Just found another use for it yesterday. My cj7 spare tire was preventing me from being able to hook up a trailer. I pulled the carrier off the rear, cut off the tire mount, moved it up 3" and re-weldeled it. After that the tire was shaking all over the place. I bought some toilet gasket material, cut it to size and used the right stuff to adhere it together to make the correct thickness for a "bump stop" so to speak. Gave it a day to cure and voila...done

 

The Right Stuff IS RTV. They are on in the same. Every manufacturer has their own recipe to bland RTV with other chemicals. The end result is for all intents and purposes basically the same. Some are a bit thicker, some harden a bit faster, some have more lasting qualities but they are basically are all the same. When setting up race engines you do have to be very careful with The Right Stuff and RTV as it is not quite as thick as a gasket and we've had problems at times with clearances between the crankshaft and oil wipers on the pan. I learned to use a gasket instead of RVT alone but a thin pass of RVT on the gasket will work wonderfully.

 

I should have used the term "set up faster" rather than "harden faster".

 

Is this stuff really that impossible to remove once used? I have a th350 that leaks, yes it is the gasket.
I’ve had it with gaskets and ordered some “right stuff”...

 

I used to use only Toyota (black) or Nissan (orange) sealant only, it flows like the right stuff but is in a tube. Haven't used it in awhile, it kicks fairly quick so you need to use it within about a month.

 

All you need is a razor blade

 

I have found that it (RIGHT STUFF) works best if you smear a small amount on the other surface, the one, that you do not put the bead on really makes the best of the best seals.

 

Smear with your finger a light coating on mating surface then apply the bead on the pan?

 

With RTV or any silicone you should lay a bead down assemble parts and just apply enough bolt pressure for the parts to lightly mate then allow the silicon to set up before applying final torque. If you apply the silicone and go to final torque it just forces the silicone out of the joint and is the same as having no gasket. Not tightening to final torque before allowing the silicon to set up is especially important on parts like oil pans, valve covers or any part that has a very low torque requirements.

 

I torqued pan bolt bolts(th350) to spec yesterday after a thorough cleaning. Checked this morning still a slight leak. It may be what was left between the gasket amd pan. But pretty sure its the gasket(wix rubber in trans kit)/rtv I tried this time.

Before I used this same pan gasket and applied some gasgacinch on the gasket, usuing a summit chromed tranny pan with drain plug. No leaks. I tried something different this time, keeping the old pan but forgetting to flatten the bolt holes...

 

Y-block valley pan with the two bolts in the center. Rep;aced with aluminum pan and right stuff doe to OEM leaking.
Nary a drop now. I like it.

 

^^^^^^ yeah? well check back with us if you ever have to remove it, LOL