Technical bolting driveshaft to stock '32

Bolting up the stock type driveshaft to the trans. No room for sockets or a wrench to tighten the nuts next to the cup..... What is the standard solution to this problem ....Special nuts ?? Spacers?

 

Would unbolting the cross member help?
Use use a socket head cap screws instead of hex bolts..
Could you tack weld the nut to the coupler and then insert the bolt from the other side?

 

Pretty sure Henry used special nuts with a smaller hex. When I did my 32 I didn't have those nuts, so it took a lot of partial turns with a wrench held at a weird angle. Get them as tight as possible then put in the cotter pins.

Oh, I just realized you have that added crossmember thing in the way down below. Maybe you can grind a socket real thin to slip on the nuts?

 

You can tighten them with an open end wrench, but it is a slow process. I am going to try using coupling nuts(used for joining lengths of threaded rod) on my present project. Probably have to go to an industrial supply house to get fine threads

 

If the cradle between the two add-on legs is removable mark them before taking off and clearance for the two lower nuts. Or tighten the two lower nuts and add the cotter pins before reinstalling the lower cradle. It looks like you have the Industrial Chassis reinforcing legs which are a great structural improvement to the early chassis.

 

I bet you could modify open end wrenches by grinding them
thereby reducing both the thickness and the outside width .
You may also have to heat up the wrench and bend it to a configuration
that allows access. You could also take a smaller size nut and drill and
tap if for the required thread size. That would give you more working
room by reducing the wrench size required.

 

Bolts are fixed to the plate.

 

Jet nuts. You can get them at any place that sells sprint car parts. Speedway sells them. ARP sells them. Last ones I used took a 9/16" wrench on a 1/2" bolt.

Never dealt with these folks but it will give you an idea what's out there.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/cata...MIiZCi2KaR4wIVA7nACh36qQlSEAQYASABEgIT1vD_BwE

SPark

 

What’s the thread size on those, 3/8-24? I have some various 3/8-24 twelve point nuts that are both 1/2” and 7/16” socket sizes. These are all self locking nuts.

Let me know and I can send you some hardware to try. I don’t have a ‘32 so I can’t say.

Cliff Ramsdell

 

You can also use a coupling ,nut they are longer
Then you can get a socket on them

 

I ground a socket very thin on the end. Worked ok for me.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

thanks for the help. I'm giving Nacewicz a call tomorrow. I think Ford may have had a special nut.

 

What does the manual show.....?

 

If I remember correctly the studs are fine thread 7/16" and Ford used a 5/8" nut instead of the more standard used 11/16" nut. A chrome thin wall socket will work with the smaller nuts.

 

Mr. Nacewicz recently passed away. Let us know if you can still make purchases from his company.

 

Looks like they do have a listing for a fastener for the cup. Sorry to hear about his passing. When ?? I have purchased for him before. what a collection of correct parts.

 

Very sorry to hear about Roy a pic From the 1932 ford book by David

 

could you use allen nuts?i used them on a tight fit with my steering arm.
sorry to hear about Roy, bought a lot of stuff from him.

 

http://fordscript.com/ Looks like they are still closed.

I'd think about taking a smaller nut and boring/tapping it out to 7/16" in a lathe. You've got to have a friend with a lathe, dontcha? Probably take about a half hour tops. Next time I need some I'm doing this.

 

https://arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-detail-b.php?RecordID=997

 

Still need slots for the cotter pins.

 

This may be a help. Totally Stainless. Ron