My first build, first post, and first Hot Rod. I have to admit I feel a little intimidated posting this, There is so much talent and knowledge on this site. I haven't had anything to contribute until now and if anything maybe it will help motivate the average guy, it's the simple straightforward builds that put the idea in my head that I can pull this off. In the winter of '16 I got the itch to build a coupe v8 hot rod and found myself on a road trip from Detroit to North Carolina to pick up a 31 body and frame. In retrospect I should have waited for something closer and more complete but I was impatient and didn't want to buy someones turn key car, I want to build my own car! 20160312_133922 by JJelen posted Mar 19, 2018 at 10:15 PM S-l16006 by JJelen posted Mar 19, 2018 at 10:23 PM I'm aiming for a traditional look, though some parts may not be period correct. I have the Tardel book but some of it may not apply to my part choices. For the last 2 years I've been gathering tools and parts to actually start on this project. The plan: highboy Y block w/tripower trans undecided(700r4/toploader4spd/t5) Leaning towards 4 spd frame boxing/x-member/4-6"stretch for motor? F1 steering column ford 8" was told it was from a pinto or mustangII, about 56-57" wide I'm still on the fence with tires, maybe 750-16/550-16 or something similar 4" drop axle and speedway split bone style arms Juice brakes 2-3" chop 30-31 style grill no fenders/no hood Ford 312 - YouTube by JJelen posted Mar 19, 2018 at 10:30 PM I live on a dirt road and I don't have the dedication or desire for a fully restored vehicle but a budget paint job will be the long term goal. At first look the engine I scored runs pretty well and once I get the body solid I plan on just rolling with it until I get the vehicle under it's own power. Speaking of getting the body solid... Pasbackcorner by JJelen posted Mar 19, 2018 at 10:23 PM Drivbackcorner by JJelen posted Mar 19, 2018 at 10:23 PM Inside by JJelen posted Mar 19, 2018 at 10:23 PM The entire back half of the body from behind the b pillar is completely loose from the subrails due to rust. I have the replacement panels for the entire bottom half of the car and subrails from the b pillar back but i'm not sure at this point if I should start with the body assembled, or disassemble and start with just the cowl and subrails bolted to the frame and patch each panel during reassembly and alignment. I know it will be better to take everything apart to blow the rust out of all the seams it just seems daunting for a first timer.
congrats on getting project - yes, it can be a very daunting task first time try - even with some builds under your belt can be daunting - most of us are blinded by excitement and optimism at the start - but, this is how you learn to do it right
Looks like a good parts list so far , I know it may seem out of budget but a pair of 32 rails will add some extra bling and resale value it will also help if yo stretch the wheelbase some cause the car will look wider I wouldn't stretch the wheel base more than 107 especially if you are going to run the A frame the car will start to look long and awkward
Good point, I hadn't thought about the point at which a stretch gets awkward. Maybe I can make up room between pushing the radiator forward a little and recessing/flipping the firewall.
If it was mine, I'd unbolt everything I could and blast between all those seams. Epoxy prime all the joints before reassembly. Make all the reassembly steps on a nice square and solidly mounted frame, using the proper wood blocks under the subframe. Get everything loosely assembled, tack welded, and square again (doors and trunk lid gapped nicely) before welding any patch panels solid.
Go read @BenLeBlanc 's build thread. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1930-ford-coupe-project.954246 You'll probably get a lot out of it.
So much available knowledge and willing help and encouragement here, I'm sure you'll be fine. I'm near Imlay City Michigan. May I ask... where in Michigan are you? Good luck with your project! Sent from my VS835 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You can do it, one thing at a time, go out to the shop and say, "today I'm going to......" focus on one project every time and you'll soon start to see it come together. If you're stuck, ask, there's some very good folks here.
Welcome, that coupe is good compared to our As .... 04210... IMO...since your rear subfloor is toast, trace the curve of a '32 frames's rear kick up... build your rear subfloor to match that... you can shim to bolt the body down on the A, if later you want '32 rails [who don't] your body will be pretty much ready to go... Pic of my '30 coupe trunk floor, had to reset the tank floor as I set up the rear window to be up or down 4", to let the air out... where the frame drops down at the rear I tacked dividers either side of the battery so I could slide in 4 qts of Tranny fluid and 3 qts of Rotella T and still clear the tail light pigtails... just in case... I also tacked in a couple nuts to anchor a spare starter, 2 tubes to slide in a "get me home" points distributer and a coil...
Like thirtytwo said, 32 rails. I bought the cheapest set on ebay and they look really nice. I haven't used them yet but I don't see how they could be made any better.
That's funny, I subscribed to his channel around a year ago and watched every video! I never knew he had a build thread on here. Same thing with Aaron D., I've been watching his video updates and both of them are inspiring. Just south of Ypsilanti Township, near Willis, MI Multiple mentions of using 32 rails, my frame is nearly mint and I don't want to bite off more than I can chew. Thanks everyone for the positive input!
For me astetically I can't push the grill forward it just looks wrong to me to have it much past the centerline of the axle , I messed up measuring once and thought I could do it and live with it... I ended up cutting chassis apart ant moving the cross member
I put a Y block in an A sedan, and stretched the frame 5.5" that was just enough to get it in without cutting the firewall. I also run a spring in front axle set up so the axle is moved back about 3" or so. With that, the wheelbase is only 2.5" longer than stock.
Very nice Tudor, is that a stock A radiator and if so is it cooling the Y block sufficiently? Small update for today. 3-27-18a by JJelen posted Mar 27, 2018 at 9:47 PM I cut the rusted subrails out. 3-27-18b by JJelen posted Mar 27, 2018 at 9:47 PM New ones are in. 3-27-18c by JJelen posted Mar 27, 2018 at 9:47 PM 3-27-18d by JJelen posted Mar 27, 2018 at 9:47 PM I repaired both sides of each B pillar similar to this. I also welded up all the cracks and missing metal at the very front mounting holes of the subrails. I'm currently fighting with the bolts holding the door hinges to the body, I've got 6 of 18 out so far. I'll have to deal with the hinge pins too, they are being little bastards. I figured once the doors are off I can begin with the cowl patches and door alignment then work on the back half of the body.
Yes it is, I soldered a '53 Ford truck radiator neck in place of the stock neck so I can run a pressure cap. Only running a 4 lb cap because I don't trust the radiator with any more pressure than that, it was a $20 swap meet unit at Hershey. It cools fine, I have no problem even on 95* days. You are starting with a better body than I did, good luck, looks great so far!
Small update today. I got distracted with Summer hitting Michigan before spring came and I needed some R&R. I didn't get pics of it but the A pillars above the cowl area were cocked to the passenger side a good 1/2"-3/4". I used several ratchet straps, heat and a 2x4 with a hammer to straighten them up. Hopefully when I'm ready to fit the doors I don't find them out of whack either. It makes me wonder if this car sat in a garage with a ton of wood or drywall leaning against it for decades, or maybe in a junkyard with other wrecks pushing on it. I picked up a Dodge Caravan seat to use. 6-1-18e by JJelen posted Jun 3, 2018 at 9:26 PM I found a 3 spd 3.03 Toploader trans with a Hurst shifter locally on Craigslist, and had the input bearing retainer machined down at a shop down the street to fit the y block bellhousing which i also recently snatched up on the other side of the state. I've seen them on ebay but this one also had the fork/pressure plate/flywheel and hardware, all cleaned up and primed. The ole guy looked like a 90 year old Popeye and was cool as hell. The trans was in a 63 comet though I think the guy said it wasn't original to the car. I lost my notes with the clutch plate I need to get but i think it was a common disc, from what i understand I'll just need to measure and lob off some of the input shaft and figure out a proper pilot bushing for the 312 crank. I'm also not sure yet if the auto starter was the same as manuals for the y block. I'm a ways from getting the engine together but it would be nice to test it on a stand before too long. 6-1-18a by JJelen posted Jun 3, 2018 at 9:26 PM 6-1-18c by JJelen posted Jun 3, 2018 at 9:26 PM 6-1-18d by JJelen posted Jun 3, 2018 at 9:26 PM And i finally got started chopping in the first patch panel, my panels are all from Snyders and though the fit was good the panel had to be shortened for the body lines to match up. I think I've read of other cases so I wasn't terribly suprised. Inner support thingy was rusted. 3-31-18a by JJelen posted Jun 3, 2018 at 10:08 PM I banged out a new makeshift one. 3-31-18b by JJelen posted Jun 3, 2018 at 10:08 PM This looks close enough. 3-31-18d by JJelen posted Jun 3, 2018 at 10:08 PM 6-1-18f by JJelen posted Jun 3, 2018 at 9:26 PM 6-1-18h by JJelen posted Jun 3, 2018 at 9:26 PM
Btw you can fit a y block in a Model A without lengthening the frame. You just new to move the front cross member about .5 inch forward and install a 32 firewall. I have enough room to put my hand behind the distributor, when I have a complete engine in .
This is a good idea an If I don't find a cheap used firewall I might spring for the Brookville flat firewall or maybe the stamping only and graft it to the rim of the 31 firewall. I've made a little more progress on body repairs. I fought like hell with the hinge pins on the passenger door and still have to do the driver door. Using the hinge pin tool from Snyder's proved ineffective, I soaked the pins for over a month as I procrastinated. once I used the tool it mushroomed the bottom of the pins on 2 of 3 hinges and the dowels that came with it all bent and fractured. I ended up drilling the top and bottom of each hinge just enough to pull it off the door then finished the body side of the hinge on a drill press. Quick Timelapse of passenger side cowl patch going in. IMG_20190609_164831873 by JJelen posted Jul 1, 2019 at 10:41 PM Passenger door rust holes. IMG_20190616_112024835 by JJelen posted Jul 1, 2019 at 10:39 PM IMG_20190616_130227731 by JJelen posted Jul 1, 2019 at 10:39 PM IMG_20190623_125856036 by JJelen posted Jul 1, 2019 at 10:39 PM IMG_20190630_141508776 by JJelen posted Jul 1, 2019 at 10:39 PM Hinges apart and cleaned up. IMG_20190622_154546030 by JJelen posted Jul 1, 2019 at 10:39 PM After hanging the door I see I'll have to make some adjustments to the cowl patch. IMG_20190630_163227862 by JJelen posted Jul 1, 2019 at 10:39 PM Driver door. IMG_20190630_180431879 by JJelen posted Jul 1, 2019 at 10:39 PM IMG_20190701_130141889 by JJelen posted Jul 1, 2019 at 10:39 PM IMG_20190701_135259842 by JJelen posted Jul 1, 2019 at 10:39 PM IMG_20190701_193511192 by JJelen posted Jul 1, 2019 at 10:41 PM IMG_20190701_203219029 by JJelen posted Jul 1, 2019 at 10:41 PM
Yes, great progress. Keep at all the panel repairs, there is always a lot of metal repair to do on these old cars, but in the end it's worth it. Your Coupe is looking good man, before ya know it you'll be in the drivers seat cruising it around with a big smile on your face!
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