Almost to the point where I can begin wiring my coupe to start the motor. Using the attached diagram I found as a reference I am realizing I have replaced a wiring harness before but never started from scratch. Couple questions for you wiring experts, will be using a 12V Rebel Wiring Harness: Engine - 1967 283 SBC with NOS Generator Transmission - 1939 Ford 3 Speed with 1939 Ford Banjo and shortened torque tube Questions - 1. Do I need a voltage regulator with the Generator? I know some alternators have it built in. Assuming yes any recommendations or any 12V will do? 2. Ignition Ballast? Where can I source that? My distributor is a NOS Roto Faze with NOS Judson coil. 3. Starter Solenoid - I assume any 12V will do? 4. Was always planning to use the Model A gas tank as its in decent shape. Any disadvantages to using it versus a trunk mount? Thanks for any advice or guidance.
If you're going to the local store and play the Make,Model and year game: I like the Chrysler inline resistors for the distributor, 69 Dodge Charger, 318 engine. Remote Solenoid, 72 Ford pickup, F100, 360 engine. The last external voltage regulator I bought was solid state, not the old adjustable type. I'm not sure when Chevrolet stopped using generators, I had a 64 that was alternator, my 55 is generator. So I would try a 55 Chevy . Good Luck
If your Judson coil is 1.5 Ohm, then you can run the Chrysler ballast resistor at 1.7 Ohms to reduce power input to the + terminal. If its a 3 Ohm coil, no ballast resistor is needed. In essence, no matter what coil and ballast resistor, they need to add up to 3 Ohms to protect your points. 56-62(?) Chevy voltage regulator. Early 55 was positive ground. Don't know if that matters since you'll need to polarize your generator. Don't forget to do that before you start running everything.
Chevrolet starters have the solenoid mounted on top … maybe a diagram for a '55 - '57 Chevrolet would be closer to what you want to follow
If the alternator has built-in regulator you don't need an external regulator. Just run the single wire from the alternator to the positive connection on the starter Sent from my XT1710-02 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I don't think your stater switch will work as currently drawn. You need to pickup 12 volts at the point you showing going to ground. This would energize the solenoid and complete the circuit between Bat + and the starter. Where you pickup 12 volts for the starter switch would depend upon if you wanted the the starter switch to work only when the Ign. switch is on or work independent of the Ign. switch.
If you are set on the look of the generator, all the ones I have ever seen had an external regulator. Pretty easy to wire up. I run a Ford solenoid (relay) up on my firewall, an old stock car trick I have used for decades.
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