The drivers side door latch on the '50 Coupe has never shut properly and it was time to replace it with a new one, but as often is the case even the new latch doesn't seem to work properly. I have spend at least a couple of hours adjusting it up, down ,back and forth and in and out, it just doesn't want to shut all the way. The passenger side isn't perfect but it's much better. These latches are identical to the ones on the Ranch Wagon and I have them working perfectly, I've run out of ideas, I can't be the only one to have this problem. HRP
Danny, I find that most latches are good,its the adj\justment of striker plate that is crirical...A person usually is trying to set the plate IN too far..The latch is not going shut deep enough...back off on the striker so you catch the first location,and not needing to catch second location...IN SHORT...your striner in door jamb is set for closing tigher(Deeper)
After play for too long with designed adjustments,and failed,,,Doors can be prob.s,hinges,frame,warpage. There are times I had to get werid with them,and use a 2x4 too lift outer end,or put 2x4 in the way when closing the door on it=so to give it a twist it needed for better fit.
I always fit or adjust the door without the Latch or striker in place , also with the window down and make adjustments as needed to get the proper height of the rear of the door , also to make sure the door has no twist and fits flush . once the door fits the opening properly , then apply the latch and striker. on my 53 Coupe Deville , I had to use a porta-power to push the top of the Quarter panel out about a quarter inch to get correct door alignment. P.S. Same goes for Hood and Decklid = No latches when checking Fit / Alignment
A closed window can make for a bad day on striker adjustment . You will probably never have any reason to look at one , but my old Power Wagon has about 3/4 in gap where ends of the door weather strip meet at the bottom of the door . Believe it or not this is just to allow air to escape when the window is up to allow the door to close easily . You may have it sealed up way to tight to close easily .
I used the incorrect terminology for the part I am dealing with, it is door striker plate, The weather stripping is not a issue, the striker plate on a 1954 Ford is identical to the one on the '50 coupe. I am familiar with the latching mechanism but despite everything I have tried the door just won't completely close in the latch position, there seems a be at least a one inch gap when the door is closed, there is no play when it's closed. At this point I am thinking the car has been involved in a accident years ago and my best bet my be to update to a different type of latch. HRP
How does the door lay against the body with striker not in place? Objective of question. Looking for what others have touched on. Door seal issue or hinge binding.
With the striker removed the door fit's the body as it should, that is what's driveing me nutsm put the striker in place, move it every way possible and it doesn't come anywhere close to fitting properly. HRP
Move the striker out. You may not be engaging the second pawl because it is to far in. Edit Latch should click twice, maybe latch is broken.
Door jamb issue? As in to much or to little gap between door edge (latch portion of door, not body gap) and the jamb it's self.
Good point. A dry fit of sticker to door latch with door open can give a reference point to transfer over to where exactly on the jamb it should actually go.
I have moved it in and out, up and down, side to side and it will ether latch with a huge gap or not at all. HRP
open the door and put the latch on the door to see if will latch. if it does measure from the out side of the door to the back of the latch, then put it the same distance from out side of the jam '- 1/8 "
The Jalopy Journal
