sorry got the numbers switched around. the carbs are tied together (not progressive.) yes the motor did bog down when i set the back carb near the fire wall . on the front one it was ok .......funny i had on two 94s and they set ok on the same manifold? i do have the old needle and seat valve. the ones in the carbs now have a round ball at the end and holes all around maybe i should switch back to the old style as CarbKing suggested ??
the carb in the back (fire wall) did bog down but i tried two 94s on the same manifold and worked fine when syncing. they are NOT progressive linked. they do have the newer fuel valves and i do have the older style and should try them as CarbKing suggested
after reading the HRM article that was in a post from patmanta i can see that H&H would recommend two strombergs on an offy intake just like i have. drove it to back to the 50s this weekend and asked a few questions at the show. showed the plugs to people and to my surprise they weren't running as lean as i thought. but now after driving for two days i see that i get a little backfire when starting (not all the time) and it seems to be a little doggie running could the timing be off? i have a Mallory electronic distributor 4 degrees BTDC ? and i noticed it wants to spit water out the exhaust pipe at start up. no water is lost in the cooling system is this normal? and while i was at the show Edelbrock wants to sell me a 500 CFM carb and manifold that would cure all my issues?? 500 CFM is to big of a carb RIGHT??? thank you guys!!!!! mike
2 lb of fuel pressure is not enough. 3 1/2 is recommended. The stock float valves work better than the ball ones. Neoprene tip float valves came out in the 50's and are now called Viton tipped. Properly installed and with correct float level, these will not leak with 8 lb. of fuel pressure. I have been running 6 lb on mine for 40 years. NO LEAK-BY. With two 97's, 3 1/2 lb of fuel pressure, 1/4 inch fuel lines, on a modified engine, the bowls will run dry on a full power run through first gear or a short pull on a dyno. If Uncle Max checked your carbs, you have NOTHING wrong with them. You have other problems.
well your right max did do the carbs and he was the one that suggested 2lbs anymore would be bad. the leaking is at the accelerator pump hole. I do be leave its the inlet valves that is doing this gas squirts up ad over the top of the carbs leaking from the pump holes. I will send a few pics here the fuel line is a Stromberg line (hope that's big enough) and I will try the old style max did look at carbs twice just seems funny I know he's good at it. not disputing that fact.. could the power valves be bad??
Somebody other than Max has been after that idle tube. That screw head is buggered on the tightening side and there is no way he would put enough torque on that screw head to do that to it. If it came to him like that, he would replace it. The carbs are leaking because the float valves are NOT sealing. If you can't afford Viton valves, replace them with new FORD stock ones. They did not leak from the factory. Those fuel lines will work ok for street use. For street, 45 main jets and a 65 power valve should work ok to start from.
this picture is when I got the carbs back from him. as far as the jets and power valve I don't know what he had put in the carbs. you must be referring to the pic that I sent with the valve circled? there are some personal things going on with him right now and hope its all good....