Still need to add this cross member but want to order the fuel cell first Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Almost done with back half.. waiting on dropped cross member and ladder bar front mount brackets so I can set up rear end and coil overs.. then gonna work my way to the front half of the frame. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Welds look pretty good! With gasless flux core....how do you keep the "BB's" to a minimum? I think you will like the full frame with a kick up a lot better.(I do!) 6sally6
Thanks..I use a flapper disc on a grinder with 180 grit and remove them Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
Looking good. You may want install your engine and trans and make sure the dip in your ladder bar crossmember doesn't intersect with your driveshaft travel. I also noticed your ladder bar adjustments are all the way bottomed out. You should have some room both ways to adjust. Right now you can only adjust to make everything longer. I had the same issue with my Morris Gasser project. Had to cut the center out and remake my driveshaft loop . You can also set your pinion angle at the same time. Very important to get right in short wheelbase cars as your drive shaft will quite short. Mine is going to a little over 18 inches. Not much room before you get into binding issues. Have fun finishing your Morris. I am in the home stretch on mine.
The the ladder bar mount is forward to account for the ladder bar adjusters that will add 4.5".... Waiting on them to come in the ladder bar mount is just welded on top in case I need to cut and move. Thanks for the compliments.. can't wait to see yours run.. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Front driveshat yoke should be parallel to front ladder bar Heim joint pivot Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Any comments or suggestions are greatly appreciated Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Need to work on front frame rails so I can mock up engine and transmission next.. but you are right.. Thank You Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Any you guys know the pros and cons of running a front frame kick up after the firewall? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
There really isn't any pro or con it is determined on the ride height you want, and as far as being in front of firewall your leg room will determine that. Your engine steering box or rack and headers also has to be taken into consideration. Pat
Well don't laugh I know it looks likeright now none of the welds are ground down.. the front fenders were wrinkled and the hood was twisted and rotted out.. can't afford a $1,400 fiberglass front end soon going to do with what I have with heavy modifications.. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Just trying to piece it together.. all flux core wire welder Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Do you have a bead roller You can flair the rear fender's with it and then hammer out the flare. That's how I did mine. Looking good so far. My driveshaft ended up being 26 1/2 inches . I had to roll the rear up to get correct pinion angle View attachment 4317247
Been following along Rigor..Just MY thoughts here..........is there any way you could keep the front wheels in (or near) the wheel well openings? I sorta question the altered look with the front wheels sticking way out in front of the car. The old Comp coupe class with the coupe body sitting on a dragster frame was too-cool but yours............I think would be better with the wheels in the stock location (or "near" stock location). Would the engine be in your lap?? Is that the reason. Jus wonder'in 6sally6
@ 6sally6 : Yes I've changed my mind on the altered look I'm going try and keep front wheels as close to stock location as possible. I believe there will be plenty of room for engine without it being in my lap.. and from what I've read from Quain Stott is, in these short wheel base cars you want the engine as far forward as possible to keep it from being a wheelie machine.. lol. So yes I believe you are right on looking more correct with front wheels as close to stock location as possible.. what I am worried about is header clearance. Really appreciate the motivation. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
@ SouthCross: as always I really appreciate all your help, probably wouldn't be where I'm at without it. The bead roller is definitely on the top of the list. I love the look of your fenders.. and will definitely have a lot of questions for you in the near future. I've kinda been jumping around tackling different areas trying not to get discouraged.. it's definitely been a learning experience and has really tested my skill level. On The pinion angle I've been reading as much as possible on ladder bar drag set up, as it probably will not see a whole lot of street time.. I have it set now where pinion is parallel with ladder bars in center hole of front mount with 2 holes up adjustment and 2 holes down adjustment.. with ladder bar adjusters on the rear axle mount for preload adjustment, if that makes sense? Lol. As always appreciate your input. May be acquiring a front engine dragster.. but that's a different topic.. lol Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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