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Technical Life's good, sometimes it sucks, BIG TIME!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 34Larry, Jun 13, 2019.

  1. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    No problem, they make lots of sizes, I picked a smaller one and mounted it at an angle under my tail shaft because I had room.
    That way it will get the airflow it needs.
    They don't have to be mounted in front of the rad, anywhere under the car where they get airflow is good.
    And they will be way more efficient than the finned aluminum thing.
    As you know transmissions don't like extreme heat.
     
    VANDENPLAS likes this.
  2. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,363

    evintho
    Member

    Gorgeous chassis with that Hemi/Torqueflite/Jag combo!
    I think you should take a road trip in that sassy lookin' Riv, just to clear your head and plan your strategy.
     
    loudbang, dirty old man and Hnstray like this.
  3. Man that's a drag. The state of my cars has a direct relationship to my level of happiness.
     
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  4. egads
    Joined: Aug 23, 2011
    Posts: 1,419

    egads
    Member

    Derale 15950 12"x13"( I wouldn't cut that frame either )[​IMG]
     
  5. 40Standard
    Joined: Jul 30, 2005
    Posts: 5,963

    40Standard
    Member
    from Indy

    get out your Fellow Pages and ask for some help. good luck
     
  6. 34Larry
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,701

    34Larry
    Member

    Thanks evintho. That Rivi is another guys now. I had it 20 years, It was a factory dual quad 425 nailhead GS. One of 169 made. Sold it to finish the 34 and ended up spending that 18K on a new roof instead I had to do, just my shitty luck. It was and is still a beautiful car, many awards through the years. Wish I still had it, but then i wish I had all the rods and rides I've owned in my eighty years.
     
  7. 34Larry
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,701

    34Larry
    Member

    I'll be look' in on this one also.
     
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  8. 34Larry
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,701

    34Larry
    Member

    Here is the first installment of what I hope will be "the fix" I believe I can do this with a lot less work and hassle than what I posted in the OP.
    This then is the cross member as it is today. It will be a week or so before I "get "into it as we are headed out on a 5 day vacation trip. Wife needs time away and so do I. (Unbelievable family issues with the damned great-grand kids)
    So what you see here is the cross member I built and installed originally and welded in place. Right now I'm planning on just cutting the space under the tail shaft out. Unbolting from the engine and dropping it down after dealing with the shift linkage. I'll keep the piece I cut out and reinstall it using 5/16 X 1-1/4 (maybe wider), flat bar and bolting it across the bottom of the and stubs from the fame for correct height and then reinstalling the removed section piece and using 5/16 x 1-1/2 FB and bolts through the re-installed member piece and the stubs in the vertical cuts made when I took it out. I'll drill it all before cutting it out so I'm able to position it as close as possible to its original position.

    I'll cut vertical cuts from bottom up common to the "pocket" save that piece and reinstall it using FB and bolts so that the future guy(s), won't have the same issue as the original idiot fabricator created.
    I'll keep this updated as I work it, but that's the plan for the present. I'll also include what left and right of this fix. The left side with the fitting showing is the fuel line and the right side are the transmission cooling lines. That is 5/16 wall tubing and I'm a retired from the iron trades, and Boeing manufacturing Engineer and with my knowledge I'll be using the correct size of bolts and materials i believe. The plaguing issue is this old man human body and laying on the cement and how long I can endure doing so. (Might get under there and have to call the fire dept boys to come help me to my feet. :):eek::rolleyes:o_O
    So I'm open to suggestions from any one with better ideas, but I do not want to get into any welding of any kind.
    L hand.jpg
    Left side with fuel fittings for necessary routing to the engine and battery cable from the trunk. r hand.jpg
    Right side with transmission cooling lines.
    Center.jpg
     
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  9. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,588

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

  10. dirty old man
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 8,910

    dirty old man
    Member Emeritus

    Larry I just found this thread and read it all. What you showed us is a beautiful piece of art, and I agree totally with your reluctance to let "just anybody" touch it with a wrench, much less a Sawzall!:eek:
    And I certainly understand the effort and potentially painful effort it's gonna be to do the job. I'm a little closer to 82 than 81 myself and don't enjoy working on a creeper either! I'm facing a somewhat similar job, except I hope I don't have to do any cutting and refabbing, replacing the clutch in my "A" Hiboy roadster with a McLeod dual disc in order to reduce pedal pressure required to drive it. It's either that or go to an automatic transmission sooner or later.:confused:
    An idea is running thru my head is to take advantage of having built the car myself and the same applies to you. We both know pretty well what wrench sizes/types we need already. I'm going to put all the wrenches, sockets, and etc. on a shallow drip pan I have and place it where it won't be in the way of my work, but close enough that I can roll the creeper over and get what I need. That way no struggling to get up and down from that damn creeper, which is a struggle more than working while on it!
    A good friend has offered the use of his shop and a lift, but I'd like to do it in my shop so as not to feel obligated to hurry and get thru with the job to free up his lift and shop. Don't plan on doing this till after good roadster driving weather is over and Winter arrives and when topless roadsters ain't too much fun. So I'll have time to work at my own pace and not feel guilty if I don't get on it real fast.
     
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  11. 6sally6
    Joined: Feb 16, 2014
    Posts: 2,459

    6sally6
    Member

    Like my Dad once said......."Gett'in old ain't worth a shit!" He sure was right....again!
    You were in the 3rd grade when I was born but I feel your pain scoot'in around on a creeper.
    I prefer to not use a creeper.. Get it up high enough to roll under and out.
    Put down some foam carpet padding and get comfortable.
    Have the needed tools (most of 'em) nearby so you can reach them .
    Set up a nice box fan to keep you somewhat cool and the gnats away.
    Maybe a little music or some Rush Limbaugh on the radio and enjoy what you're doing.
    No pressure to gett'er done...just a little 'modification to your previous work'. Heck we all do that.
    Now....git-after-it!;)
    6sally6
     
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  12. 34Larry
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,701

    34Larry
    Member

    ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
    Hey DOM thanks for the great suggestion, I'll do that.
    Yeah man as is said by old codger friends in Az. when I'm there in the winter, "Getti'n old ain't for sissies," and another one always says, "These are supposed to be our Golden Years. Hell the only thing Golden is y urine ! Hey good luck and stay healthy.:)
     
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  13. lemondana
    Joined: Feb 21, 2009
    Posts: 225

    lemondana
    Member
    from Lincoln NE

    Just asking-Do you have a kickdown installed and adjusted properly? If not, your new transmission won't last much longer either. Disregard if you have a manual valve body in the trans.
     
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  14. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    One of the best Mopar trans men in the country used to be over here in Grandview but I don't think he has worked on them for years. He is around 80 too though.
    It's kin of a danged if I do, danged if I don't on cutting that trans crossmember out. You can probably cut it right next to the welds and with a bit of trimming weld flanges on it that bolt to the X member like they were there to begin with. Lots of work if you have to lay under the car and do it though.
    On the other hand, I was just wondering if you can even snake the engine and trans out of the chassis with the body on it. That looks like it is going to be a pretty tight fit.
     
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  15. 34Larry
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,701

    34Larry
    Member

    lemondana, No kick down. . Guess that is a good question to ask the shop that I end up taking it to for repair.
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2019
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  16. 34Larry
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,701

    34Larry
    Member


    48 see , my post above on how I plan on getting trans out.
     
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  17. Frankie47
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 1,877

    Frankie47
    Member
    from omaha ne.

    As it sits now you repairs could be minor to middle ground.......you keep driving it and burn it up......big dollar on repair or total replacement is a distinct possibility.
    Being thrifty now can cost a lot of money down the road, stranded on the road at that. I say fix it now if you have the funds...good Luck either way you go.
    EDIT. no kick down or improperly adjusted kick down will burn up a 727 in a New York minute......that doomed it from the start.
     
  18. 34Larry
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,701

    34Larry
    Member

    Thanks F47. I have not drove it since parking it in my garage except to back it out so I could give back to my grandson his 97 Mustang I bought from his mom. That's another story. My repairs should start tomorrow or next day.
     
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  19. Frankie47
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 1,877

    Frankie47
    Member
    from omaha ne.

    If your tranny mechanic says you can tie the kick down lever halfway back and it'll do fine......put your car back on the trailer and run like hell....lol.
     
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  20. 34Larry
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,701

    34Larry
    Member

    Frankie47 "kickdown" is a strange meaning word to this northwest boy. By that I'm assuming it to mean what we call "passing gear". That is where the throttle is floored and the trans, ("kicks down" , into a lower gear for more power for passing or whatever). Is that the meaning?
    I do not have such a feature on my car nor will it have it when back on the road. Will this be a problem when it is back in the car or can the shop do something to prevent killing the new rebuild because of the lack of not having the kickdown?

     
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  21. lemondana
    Joined: Feb 21, 2009
    Posts: 225

    lemondana
    Member
    from Lincoln NE

    You do need the kickdown or you will continue to burn transmissions up. The only way that you don't need the kickdown is if you have installed a manual valve body. It is a racing modification. They are not fun to live with on a long term basis. It is like having a manual transmission without the clutch. You have to shift up and down everytime. You will need a good shifter designed for that valve body. If you go to a shop that says that you don't need it, Run like HELL, as said above. Lokar makes nice kickdown setups, although someone will have to install and adjust it correctly. Being you have dual four barrels it will take a little more work. Good luck.
     
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  22. lemondana
    Joined: Feb 21, 2009
    Posts: 225

    lemondana
    Member
    from Lincoln NE

    Do you know what year your transmission is? Up to 1970 they used a full throttle kickdown, then in 1972 they went to a part throttle kickdown-easier on the drivetrain.
     
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  23. lemondana
    Joined: Feb 21, 2009
    Posts: 225

    lemondana
    Member
    from Lincoln NE

    Instead of 1972 I meant to type 1971. Sorry.
     
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  24. Frankie47
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 1,877

    Frankie47
    Member
    from omaha ne.

    Kick down linkage is to down shift into " passing gear " if you don't have one installed or a Lokar cable by a very experienced tranny guy you will have a roasty toasty burnt up torqueflite.
    Yes a manual valve body will work instead but it is like being punched in the back of your neck every time you shift.
    Some light reading for you.

    https://www.allpar.com/mopar/torqueflite.html

    https://www.lokar.com/assets/instructions/INS0046-ChryslerKickdown.pdf

    https://www.bouchillonperformance.com/resources-kickdown-cable-notes
     
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  25. 34Larry
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,701

    34Larry
    Member

    That's a no on the year, I had no knowledge of this need, wow. It is a B&M 727 if that makes any differencence ? (I suspect not). I have had the car on the road now for two years and most always start out in first or second, shifting to 3rd, So I'd venture I've been getting away with potential failure for a long time then? Thanks to you Lemondana, and FRANKIE47 for the education. I guess that is what the hamb is all about. Damn, just when you think your at the end, they move the end, RATS Charlie Brown.
     
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  26. lemondana
    Joined: Feb 21, 2009
    Posts: 225

    lemondana
    Member
    from Lincoln NE

    Keep us updated on what you do and how you get thru this. We'll help you anyway we can!
     
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  27. 34Larry
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,701

    34Larry
    Member

    Hamb guys are the best, thanks so much.
    So this will be my last update for a while, but here is the latest
    Serious family issues have kept me out of the garage for the most part, ( damned great grandkids, dope and pot and resulting violence.), but I did manage to get the car up on jack stands, about 24 inches, yesterday to assess how it would work out cutting the cross member like I have described in a previous post. Short answer, Can't be done. To damned old to lay under there, the fix for reinstalling the trans to involved, and it would for me anyway to long compared to what I am going to do. I called in my best buddy, Jim Carmichael, the 30 year auto shop teacher who now has over a hundred cars built to his credit and he helped get this one on the road, for his advise. So back to my first thoughts. R&R engine and trans was his thoughts so that is the direction I'm headed. Faster in the long run, no fab work involved and I don't have to lay under it except to unbolt the trans, drive line and headers from the exhaust pipes. My back still hurts pretty bad just from straining to see what it would take.
    I'll not be posting any pic's although I'd like to, but being as how the MOD's have been more than good allowing a HAMB non-friendly car some space, I don't want to offend them and others here with pic's.
    I am still in the dark about kickdown need, but Jim knows it well and he will guide me with the installing.
    My sincere thanks:D:):D, for everyone who has offered their help, advise and given me an education on this. Now its of to just dig in and get-er-done and put it back on the road in time for the Puyallup Goodguys if the gods allow and gremlins will leave me alone.
     
  28. lemondana
    Joined: Feb 21, 2009
    Posts: 225

    lemondana
    Member
    from Lincoln NE

    Good Luck!
     
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  29. lemondana
    Joined: Feb 21, 2009
    Posts: 225

    lemondana
    Member
    from Lincoln NE

    When you get the transmission out, find the number on the pan rail right below where the shift and kickdown levers come out of the trans case. The number will start with a (PK then a seven digit number. Post that on here and we can tell you what that trans came out of.
     
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  30. 34Larry
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,701

    34Larry
    Member

    Thanks lemondana, will do. One thing I have not included is the trans has leaked since day one. Two issues could be the cause. #1 according to Jim is that I trimmed off a small part when installing it that appeared to be a casting tooling part. Jim says it was for the neutral safety switch, but I'm not buying it. #2 I had the tail shaft sitting on a jack during fab and it fell off cracking the upper portion of the case. I have a close friend who is a master welder with a "N" stamp ( which stands for nuke welding certified), weld it up. Wont know for sure where it is leaking until it is on the floor in-front of me of course. Picture 454.jpg This shows the welded crack in the case.
     
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