Customs 302 with blown head gasket?

Looks like a normal t-stat opening up. Slap the cap on and drive it, study its habits.

 

I agree with you Los Control, that don’t look right.
I think combustion gas test is going to show positive for exhaust gas in coolant. Had one that ate my lunch and was not tearing it down until absolute certainty. I was too tight to buy the test kit and finally found it by putting compressed air into cylinder 4 of a four banger. Bubbled up into radiator. Pulled the head and confirmed bad gasket and some head warping.

 

What front dress does the motor have? There's several different versions, if parts have been mixed you could have the water pump turning backwards. V-belts all turn clockwise, but a serpentine could be either.

 

How bad do you want to tear it down? I find that engines that sit for a long time sometimes will develop a head gasket leak. You could always put a block-saver product into it, it got me 10k miles out of an OT Nissan a few years back that had a head gasket leak.

 

I would really just put the cap on and drive it. I think you are looking for a problem that doesn’t exist.


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5.O's can be a bit ornery when bleeding air from the coolant system. Elevate the front of the car on ramps, and slowly fill while its running..

 

In your 1st post, you said that you "flushed the radiator" so I am assuming that you have drained and refilled it. Did you burp it? In other words, are you sure that you got all the air out?
I had a '57 Ranchero that did the exact same thing, it had a 302 in it and it drove me nut's trying to figure it out! I pulled the heads, had them gone thru and replaced the head gaskets but it still did the same thing until an old timer said to me "did ya burp it?"
I jacked up the front as high as I could, filled the radiator and started it up. It didn't take long for it to belch out a lot of air bubbles, let it back down and refilled the radiator. My overheating problem was solved... might be worth a try.

 

ya beat me to it, Hemiman! lol

 

LOL!!! Guess I paddled a bit faster!!!

 

I just wanted to give a update, and ask a new question.
With the help and encouragement of the members of the forum, I really do not think it is a blown head gasket today.

I have not driven it yet, whats stopping me is the T-stat housing. Just wore out aluminum and can not get it to seal, will buy a new one tomorrow.

What I did do, after replacing the T-stat gasket the second time, I left the water level in the radiator 3" down.
I put a cap on it and let her run. There was no water coming out of the overflow tube.
There was some coming from the T-stat housing is all.

What I question and am concerned with now. The ugly motor calls for a 195 T-stat.
The car is running around 195-200 warmed up and in the driveway. It may do better on the road.
To me, I worry about 195 on the original radiator and heater core ... I am tempted to drop it to 180.
I also want to replace the radiator cap, I ask for advice on what psi to replace it with?

Tomorrow will replace the T-stat housing, and also pickup the test kit for a bad head gasket. And a 180 T-stat
I live in a small town and need to drive to a bigger town to get these items.

Also wanted to add, I agree that burping it to get the air out is important, I think this car has the radiator cap at the highest point already, thinking is not a issue.

 

I would not worry about the thermostat, 195 is not going to hurt it any


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He may want a colder stat to make the temp gauge read right (if it is still using the OEM gauge). I did a 351W swap into a '56 Ford years ago, with a OEM-for-the-351 195 stat the gauge was nearly buried at 'normal' operating temp. It wasn't over heating, I'm guessing it was a different calibration for the Y-block. Put in a 180, that put the gauge in the middle of it's scale.

And if you have one of those chrome aftermarket T-stat housings, don't buy another one; those things are notorious for leaking. Get a OEM replacement type.

Another thing to look at is making sure the t-stat is centered in the housing when installing. If the stat slips, a warped leaking housing can be the result. I'll use a couple of dabs of superglue on the stat to hold it in place before attaching the gasket.

And a 'trick' to make it easier to fill is to drill one or two small holes in the t-stat flange. That allows trapped air to escape past the stat, it won't affect operating temps.

 

I thought that was my issue, I use indian head gasket sealer. and actually seal the T-stat to the housing, then sealed the gasket to the housing to to hold the T-stat.
And it leaked. ... this time I ran a file across the housing, there is only 1/16-1/8" mating surface, just wont seal.
After running the file across it, I should have known better to try it a second time, but I did.

Just saying, My Brother lives in Yelm, having a house built right now on his property.

 

180 is what I put in the older cars, the later models get their 195s. I'd put a 180 in it, since you have to fix the leak anyways.

did you get the test kit yet?

 

Is that when you became 1stGrumpy ?

 

I am with you buddy. According to the wife I am never right .

 

....with the heater running too.
Looks like it needs a good "burp" to me.
A lotta SBF radiators just will NOT stay full to the top. They kinda find their own level.
Cap it and drive it. Iron heads you won't hurt it if it starts to get warm.
6sally6

 

No, that happened years ago when I got married the first time!

 

I am leaning to 180, going to take your advice on this.
Small town I cant get the test kit here, 35 mile drive tomorrow and get it.

 

Got side tracked, back at it.
I appreciate the advice, all seems to be fine now. One more question please.
What I did was replace the T-stat housing (no more leaks) and also installed a 180 T-stat.
The 180 really seemed to fix everything, now the water level is a inch below the neck, there is good flow and no more overflow.
I test drove it just around town, running180-185, no loss of water. But no highway drive yet.

Now I am going to hook up a flushing T, flush it and then antifreeze.
The only thing left is radiator cap .... Hoping your advice can point me in the right direction.

It currently has what looks to be a 16 pound cap on it, only numbers are 16v
I think this cap probably matches the motor.

I am thinking this is the wrong cap for the original radiator, heater core?
Trying to decide, do I get a original cap with the lever on it, call it a day.

Or do I go to the antique shops and find a glass bottle to use for a reservoir, and the newer style cap?

Either way, not sure what pressure to install? 16v sounds way to much to me.

 

I would use a seven pound cap, with overflow bottle if you can make it look not too modern.

 

Most rad pressure tester have an adapter to test caps

 

that kinda backs up my thoughts.

My other thoughts, dang asshole thinks it is fine to leave town, while leaving the keys in the ignition.
I try to explain that it is bad, he claims if they want it, they will get it.
Sigh
just saying, He has a 95 ford he bought new. a old ranger, a 1964 chevy c10 that runs really nice ... and this old shoe box, when I return it, it will be sitting in the alley with the key in the ignition.

 

AutoZone have a kit you can rent. Like this one

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-27145

You warm up the engine, fill the tube with test fluid, then plug the tube in to the radiator opening. If you have a blown head gasket, the exhaust gasses exit the radiator, bubble through the test fluid, and it changes color.

The weird thing with this, at AutoZone, is that it’s a tool. You borrow it. Leave a deposit, get your deposit back when you return it. The test fluid is also a tool. So you put down your deposit, they give you a bottle of stuff. When you’re done, you return the empty bottle, and get your deposit back.

You can buy the test fluid, but why would you when they’ll give it to you for free?



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I consider it as preventive maintenance. Caps do go bad. I have replaced everything else. Everything was completely shot. Bearings squealed on the water pump, T-stat was frozen shut. The entire engine compartment was covered with rusty brown water.
The heater hoses were so rotten they tore when removing them.
Just going to go ahead and replace the cap while at it.

What was cool, the guy that built the car. He wrote on the core support, 1998 -20
I assume this is the antifreeze he was checking.
Leads me to believe, 1998 was when the car was built.
On the radiator, was 2003 -25
I did need to paint the radiator, and lost that. Tempted to write it back on and then add this year as well. Kind of gives it some history.
I am sure 2003 is the last time the cooling system was touched, same time the water pump and T-stat I bet was original to the engine.

That's weird for sure. I called autozone to see if they had the kit, they had the tool but was out of fluid. I planned on buying the tool. Autozone is a 60 mile round trip for me.

I was thinking last night, maybe a jack Daniels bottle would work, quick, easy and maybe not to dorky ... sigh, how would I empty the bottle?

 

Tell him most insurance companies won't pay nothing for anything if you leave the keys in it.

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Original pressure caps on the '50s Fords were in the 13-15 lb range, I think that had more to do with the hoses available at the time than the radiator/heater core. Increasing pressure raises the coolant boiling point which is a good thing. If everything is in good shape, a 16 lb cap will work fine.

 

Honestly Steve, I did look it up, you are correct thats what they did back then.
I am use to my 49 dodge in my avatar, zero to 4 pounds is good.
Because the 1954 is 65 years old, the odometer shows 61548 miles on it, I think it is correct and not turned over.
The cooling system was clean enough to open the petcock and get a cup of drinking water. Before I added the antifreeze a hour ago.
Now with antifreeze and idle in driveway for too long, running about 175.
And that is with the old 16 pound cap still.

The average guy would just smile and stick a fork in it.
My only goal is to make the old girl have a easy life, preserve it for the next generation, while still being able to drive it and enjoy it.
Same time I am a ignorant carpenter and not a mechanic, why I ask for advice.
Steve you have the best advice anywhere, your electric post are incredible.

Think I want to go 7 pound cap and a reservoir tomorrow.
Yesterday the owner gave me the updated insurance papers, tomorrow he is taking it in for inspection/registration, then as a 3rd party, I can legally drive it and all is covered.

Bias ply tires, loose wheel bearings, middle of the road brakes ... It could create a pucker at 70 mph.