Considering this my summer project instead of the Model AA. But I can’t decide. I know as I’ve looked at everything I am falling in love with how solid and well designed this truck was. VIN # R11 480, Model # 2R11-22. It’s got some old custom stuff done to it including side pipes, power steering, aircon, and a V8. I can’t find any numbers on the engine except the casting #535976 and the internet thinks this seems to match a 1957 v8 7.5:1 compression engine they put into the Golden Hawk. Questions: I have a 460 ford and C6 but is it worth rebuilding the Studebaker engine? I’m not planning on spending much money on this. How does the original front axle ride with good shocks, grease, and bushings? Are there any bolt on wheels to get me away from split rims? Is there any way to keep the 3/4 ton lug look, but get some disks under it? I’m Any idea what kind of automatic transmission could be on this thing? General thoughts on if this is just too big or expensive a project to tackle? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
That looks for the most part rust free. Whatever was guarding the engine compartment gave its life for the cause! Maybe you should call it "Fealty", "Dedicated", "Until my Last Breath!", or something similar? Naming contest....
the 535976 number you gave sounds to me like it must be the cyl head casting number. I'll bet it was raised numbers right on top of the center exhaust ports. You need to look for a stamped number on a flat spot machined on the block at the very front of the lifter valley cover. Usually there is an oil filler pipe there, or at least a block off plate if there is no oil filler stack pipe. the number will start with a V or a P. that stamped number will allow you to look up the year etc... Stude v8s were the strongest and toughest engines built. If you decide to do a brandX swap, please offer the engine to a Stude aficionado. They are special. WHY BE ORDINARY ?
I hope the Stude engine is not stuck. Unfortunately, the Stude characteristic of having a solid lifter camshaft leaves it with the vulnerability of having at least two or more valves left partially open no matter where the engine stops. That sometimes lets two or more cyls open to sticking when stored for many years if the air cleaner or hood isnt protecting it as you wish they would. A hydraulic lifter engine can survive a lot longer after the air cleaner is removed than a solid lifter engine can because hyd lifters will close the valves while sitting. The first thing I would check is whether the engine was stuck. WHY BE ORDINARY ?
ouch. that carburetor picture tells me the engine is most certainly stuck in at least a few cyls. thats sad. A loss that didnt have to happen. It's still rebuildable, but more costly than it should have been. WHY BE ORDINARY ?
I really think you can do better. This is what I see $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$' That's just to get it running and rolling. If you have a fully equipped shop a big budget and lots of experience, maybe. If your having to do this in your backyard or attached garage with minimal tools and experience.....No Way! Your AA is pretty rough too. Honestly.... I think you need to focus. If you want a traditional hot rod... Kill the AA as a truck. Use the cab for a build. A good cab is a start. Now start looking for Model A stuff you can actually work with. If you want to drive...... Buy the best you can afford. I do not know your skill set but both the Studebaker and AA are major projects. Lot's of folks cripple themselves in picking very rough projects. Projects that would be hard for a professional shop to do. Those projects are inexpensive for a reason. Sadly, sometimes these are doomed from the start. Buy good stuff even if you have to scrape and save for a while.
Must have been some work truck, Love the tool box! Although I would say go for it, this is not going to cheap or without some labor. Possibly more than One summer. This Would be an awesome truck for a longer term project, maybe put it back to its former, bitchin' self. Your Choice, let us know.
First, yes, that number is a cylinder head casting number (535976). Used on many engines. Once all the old garbage is cleaned off, it might not be all that bad. While the big Ford engine is plenty doable, rebuilding the Stude engine (if possible !) would be cool too. Just not as fast as a big inch Ford engine..! Unless you have the Ford ready to go now, the Ford will cost more to rebuild than the Stude, but the Stude engine won't be cheap either. All parts should be available thru a coupla different outlets. A friend did one similar a few years back. Big Chevy, Chrysler torsion bar front suspension. Fun truck, and really loud..! Looks like fun, have fun. Mike
That Stude will be a good project, join the Studebaker Drivers Club and you will find all kinds of dedicated Studebaker info, the forum is free but the Turning Wheels Magazine is worth the cost of membership. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/
To answer your question; "How does the original front axle ride with good shocks, grease, and bushings?" I rides like... well... like an old truck! I have a '56 1/2 ton that is my everyday rig. It had a 327 Chevy with a TH-400 in it when I dragged it out of a barn. I put Monroe Gas Magnums on it, replaced all the leaf spring bushings and cleaned/greased the hell outta everything. The steering is not as hard as you'd think. It tracks straight and hauls 10 bails of hay with no problem. But empty, the ride is STIFF! (If I put 4 bails in back I can get my wife to ride with me!) I can imagine a 3/4 ton would be a real bladder buster, but there are dozens of ways to smooth & soften the ride if you wish. The engine compartment and floor boards would be a little snug for a big block Ford & C-6... Measure 1st! If you don't like attracting attention, stay away from Studebakers, 'cause it's a definite conversation starter where ever you go!
And if nothing else, you have a bunch of pretty rare Stude AC parts to sell if you decide to go with the Ford...But I vote for keeping the Stude engine.
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