That is: 1. On a script cover like this one do you paint the orange and then carefully paint the black (maybe hire a skilled pinstriper to do the deed)? Or do you paint the black, let it dry, paint the orange, and wipe off the top of the script before the orange dries? Or do you paint the black and then tape off the top of the script before painting the orange? 2. And on aluminum finned valve covers do you paint it all and then sand off the high spots? Or do you tape off the high spots before painting? I doubt that I'll ever paint any finned valve covers, I like them bare aluminum and have several sets. But I think I'll try to paint a set of Chevrolet script valve covers with two colors.
On the first one it's like doing license plates. Shoot the black. Let it dry then the orange. Then you lightly buff the script to expose the black letters.
All the Chevy script valve covers I've painted have been all orange. The lettering shows well even if you don't paint it.
It's need to be dried entirely. It's a real soft touch with a foam pad. I use a real mild cutting agent like 3M's .....dammit a senior moment. Perfection no that's not it. Let me walk out to the garage. Sorry went and looked and I don't have one. Must have used it. Well use something less abrasive than raw cutting compound and go slow. I have a variable speed two stage buffer that works well here.
On my finned aluminum valve covers I figured that paint wasn't going to stick that well so I cut that red conspicuous reflective tape often seen on the backs of school busses there. Real pain making stencils to fit around the word "Corvette".
painted the orange and then used a sanding block with 320 grit...….......…...keep sanding until all fins are the same width ( visually ) and the finish on each rib is the same BEFORE BLOCK SANDING AFTER BLOCK SANDING
On stamped I painted the letters first Then the rest ( quality single stage) Sanded the main color until the letters showed up. Then cleared. Looked great On finned, I paint all of it then sand and polish the fins.
I used a Sharpe on my Chevy script valve covers (hangs head in shame). But the pair is on the wall. What do you do if you powder coat them?
Fine grit sanding block after orange is dry. lightly rub it and the script will come out silver. Then leave it that way and clear coat it. 6sally6
Paint the black, then allow to dry. Then, with a crayon, cover the script with wax, then paint the orange. Paint won't stick to the wax, then remove the wax. Done. I am butch/56sedandelivery.
I have always used grease over anything like tags , decals that was not getting painted. On finer lines like the script go buy a fine small artist brush . Take a match book cover or a business card and lay it up close to your script as a guide. You paint the letters , let dry , apply grease. Paint your orange , let dry and wipe grease of script. Patience and do not drink a cold one until done.
The same as you do with paint, black first, then red, then buff off the letters and clearcoat with powder
On the finned aluminum, take a thinner soaked rag wrapped around a rubber sanding block and wipe the fins clean while the paint is still wet. Done this way they can be pre-polished. Way easier than sanding them clean after letting it dry.
For script/detail work you can paint the cover the colour of you script and then go over the letters with grease before you paint the top colour. You can then just wipe off the grease/paint on the script. I've be warned off powder coating valve covers as if it's not done properly the powder coat on the underside can come off under engine temperatures and you then get the abrasive powder falling into your rocker gear and mixed with the oil... Sent from my SM-G390F using Tapatalk
On these, bead blast, taped off, painted black, block sand, clear coat. 5 years +, look as good as day 1
Can’t believe that there are so many different ways to go about this. On my finned covers, I just painted and while still wet, (immediately), took a rag wet with turps, and wiped the top of the fin clean. Was already polished. This was about 8 years ago after researching how to go about it, here on the HAMB !
I polish the valve cover, clean it thoroughly, mask the outside along with thin strips on top of the fins, paint, and while still tacky, pull the tape strips, and finish removing the paint with a thinner dampened rag. I found taking the time to slice up and apply the tape on the fins; while probably taking longer, gives you an edge on cleaning the paint off the fins.
I can't believe I read through this whole thing and it was all about, ugh, CHEVROLETS. I'm going to go get another cup of coffee
Its just about painting "Valve Covers" just happens to be that Chevrolet owners are PROUD to show off there stuff.. Not seeing them Blue Oval owners stepping up?
Last set of finned covers I did, I only wanted paint between the fins. I used a small brush, and had a rag with thinner for any goof ups. Just sorta flowed the paint between the fins, then wiped off any that got on top of them. After they were dry, touched up the tops of the fins with fine sandpaper.
On the raised script covers, paint the base color 1st. Take the color of choice for the script, once the main is dry, and use a hard rubber roller (brayer) to apply. Practice a little on an old license plate for the amount of solvent needed to maintain control. Here's some examples from BLICK art supply, but any art supply will have something: https://www.dickblick.com/search/?&q=rubber roller&filter=Category_fq:"Paint Rollers"&rows=24&view=grid&start=0 This so easy you'll want to find all kinds of shit to do it on. Finned aluminum, get the whole thing finished to the choice you want. get it really clean and dry then mask all but the raised fins and paint the valleys and sides but not too heavy. Covered, but not thick and heavy. Sometimes a light spray of etching primer helps too, but you have to wipe the ribs while it's wet. Once all in wipe the ribs off and you get a really pro look to the final job with only the valley in color on a fully polished cover. I'm far too lazy to try some of the ideas posted, but that doesn't mean any of them are wrong. But what if you have tin covers with logos stamped in? Well, that's where a small brush and edge wiping are the efficient and easy way. Once all colored and fully dry fill in the low stamping with the color wanted and wipe as you go. I try to use a hard backer and relatively lint free wipe with a minimum of solvent, just enough to clean so it doesn't run into the stamping. Plain enamels are best and you can use mineral spirits (hardware paint thinner) to wipe off the excess and not hurt the main color. Have fun...
LOL, I took the lazy way on the last set myself, they were in bad shape and pretty pitted to start with though. Gold rattle can, black permanent marker and a few shots of clear. At least two years old and still look OK.
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