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Technical F100 dropped axle, leafs and steering setup??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Sammy Cakes, Jun 6, 2019.

  1. Sammy Cakes
    Joined: Jun 4, 2019
    Posts: 23

    Sammy Cakes

    I recently bought a 1960 F100 with 3" Nostalgia Sid's dropped front axle and 2" drop blocks for the tie rod. It has Western Chassis lowering leaf springs all around too. There's also a steering stabilizer and sway bar kit. The truck is really hard to steer (way harder than my other manual steer trucks). It feels notchy too.

    I looked under the truck and it appears like the tie rod is touching the oil pan. The leafs also appear to be arched in the opposite direction. Is this normal? I'm including some pics and the build sheet so you can see what has been done to the truck. Any suggestions on making this steer/ ride better are greatly appreciated!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. I would call Sid 405-416-3080 and talk to him about the setup too. He is great at making sure to get you set up right.
     
  3. But...seems the springs may be your main issue.
     
  4. Sammy Cakes
    Joined: Jun 4, 2019
    Posts: 23

    Sammy Cakes

    Thank you! I did send a couple of emails to Sid. Maybe a phone call is better. The guy who sold me the truck is adamant that the setup is correct and that lowering leaf springs just look that way. Do you think the weight of the 5.4L and auto trans would contribute to the sag? Is there ever a scenario where leafs are meant to be arched in the opposite direction, or is that just plain wrong?
     

  5. De-arched springs look like that. I'd be more worried about the drag link angle.
    Gotta have bump steer....
     
  6. Sammy Cakes
    Joined: Jun 4, 2019
    Posts: 23

    Sammy Cakes

    Thank you for the input! Sid said the drag link angle was no good either. I think that's why the previous owner installed the steering stabilizer, because of the bump steer. I heard that people heat and bend the spindle arm to compensate for that. However, can't I just buy some kind of dropped drag link like the 4x4 guys use? upload_2019-6-6_14-53-12.jpeg
     
  7. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That drag link angle has to give some terrible bump steer and probably half the reason for the steering stabilizer. I don't know if shock clearance is an issue but the drag link should be a lot closer to level which means that the steering arm from the spindle needs to be bent down accordingly or replaced with one with the correct drop.
    On the springs, I'd email Western Chassis with a photo but am like RNR&C in that that is the way they are set up.
    Pan clearance have the steering arms been dropped? At any rate that is the . thing that has to be taken care of as the tie rod will eat a hole in the pan in short order the way it is now. You may end up changing to a pan that has a more friendly shape to it or having that pan modified for clearance.
     
  8. Atwater Mike likes this.
  9. wheeltramp brian
    Joined: Jun 11, 2010
    Posts: 2,551

    wheeltramp brian
    Member

    You can buy dropped tie rod ends from Speedway motors among other places
     
    Atwater Mike likes this.
  10. bonzo-1
    Joined: Oct 13, 2010
    Posts: 342

    bonzo-1
    Member

    No bump steer because of the oil pan steering brake.
     
  11. bonzo-1
    Joined: Oct 13, 2010
    Posts: 342

    bonzo-1
    Member

    No because the two ends need to be level.
     
  12. bonzo-1
    Joined: Oct 13, 2010
    Posts: 342

    bonzo-1
    Member

    That front end needs some major work. Raising the engine to clear the tie rod and lowering the steering arm to level it out should take care of most of it. Your castor shim looks like more of a spacer than an angled shim.
     
  13. bonzo-1
    Joined: Oct 13, 2010
    Posts: 342

    bonzo-1
    Member

    If you drop the tie rod lower it will be below the scrub line.
     
  14. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,213

    sunbeam
    Member

    Is the spring tie- axle locating bolt the same distance from both ends if not are the springs installed right? It is hard to tell from the picture but the axle looks farther back than other 57-59 trucks. Moving the axle forward would help with pan clearance.
     
  15. Sammy Cakes
    Joined: Jun 4, 2019
    Posts: 23

    Sammy Cakes

    That's funny!
     
    Kodak Jack likes this.
  16. Sammy Cakes
    Joined: Jun 4, 2019
    Posts: 23

    Sammy Cakes

    Yes, the tie rod drop blocks are kind of hokey in my opinion, but they drop it by 2", whereas the dropped tie rod ends only drop it by 1.5"
     
  17. Sourwood
    Joined: Jun 6, 2019
    Posts: 31

    Sourwood
    Member
    from Atlanta Ga

    I would take a look at starting over, get rid of the dropped axle . There are better ways. I know three guys who have sold there dropped axles and enjoy the ride a whole lot better. Those tie rod ends are just crap and scary. Here's a picture of my 63, though its not that low it still lower that stock and drives like new. And all the parts are factory except the reverse eye leafs, ans the two inch body drop.
    [​IMG]
    Sourwood
     
    alanp561 and 6sally6 like this.
  18. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,890

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    As already said, tie rod rub is bad, as is steering rod angle. You could fab a bracket and move the steering box up a couple of inches. Lots of work needed there.
    It shouldnt drive like a potatoe wagon when you get it dialed in
     
  19. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 1,534

    Doublepumper
    Member
    from WA-OR, USA

    Just looks like it never got properly finished. To use what you have, bend the steering arm down to get the drag link level. Use dropped tie rod ends and loose the blocks. Modify the oil pan for clearance. Check shocks for adequate travel.....done.
     
  20. Sammy Cakes
    Joined: Jun 4, 2019
    Posts: 23

    Sammy Cakes

    All good input. I actually have some reverse eyed springs that came with the truck when I bought it. I wonder if I should reinstate them. The tie-rod would clear the pan and the spindle arm wouldn't need such a drastic adjustment. But then the front might be jacked up in the air compared to the back. I also have a stock height '64. It's my pride and joy. This lowered thing is all new to me.
     

    Attached Files:

  21. I'd start with the other stuff first & then maybe install the other springs if you're still having issues.
     
  22. Sammy Cakes
    Joined: Jun 4, 2019
    Posts: 23

    Sammy Cakes

    I've enlisted the help of an able-bodied friend who is willing to help me heat and bend the steering arm. We'll take it from there.
     
  23. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,405

    alchemy
    Member

    Usually heating and bending the steering arms is done with a bare spindle. You will cook the grease in the kingpin boss, if not even warp the bushing a little. And I would sure never do it with the brake hose right there. It takes a LOT of heat.

    But, this is a necessary job to help correct your extreme drag link angle. Might not make it perfect, but it will be a lot better. Make sure to re-center your steering box afterward, then adjust the drag link to fit.

    I have a pair of those dropped tie rod ends from Speedway and they look OK. I'd recommend them for you, and if that doesn't give you enough clearance from the oil pan, take a saw to the pan.
     
  24. Sammy Cakes
    Joined: Jun 4, 2019
    Posts: 23

    Sammy Cakes

    Thanks for the info. We were gonna do it on the truck, lol! Could have been bad!
     
  25. 1946caddy
    Joined: Dec 18, 2013
    Posts: 2,059

    1946caddy
    Member
    from washington

    To start with, those are not caster shims but spacer blocks to raise the truck so the tie rod will clear the pan. I would put the stock springs back in it to bring you back to about where you are now. You either need to raise the engine-transmission to clear the tie rod or modify the oil pan. Dropped tie rod ends will put you below the scrub line. Modifying the pan would be the easiest way to go. Either get a drop steering arm or bend your arm to get rid of the angle as suggested.
     
  26. Like someone else said, raising the steering box will fix half of your problem. I made this simple box from 3/16 plate to raise my steering box 5 inches. I moved it forward 1-1/2 inches while I was at it because I moved the axle forward that much. Drag link ends up parallel with the ground. I think you'll also need to install some positively arched springs to fix the rest of the issue.
    IMG_5003.PNG
     
    Zax likes this.
  27. Sammy Cakes
    Joined: Jun 4, 2019
    Posts: 23

    Sammy Cakes

    They are definitely caster shims, but the angle of my first photos makes them look like spacers. Here's a better shot. The raised steering box is interesting to me. I do need to investigate the box as well because there is a LOT of free-play in the steering wheel. There's maybe 4" to 5" of travel from left to right before I feel any resistance. That's pretty insane now I think about it!
     

    Attached Files:

  28. earlymopar
    Joined: Feb 26, 2007
    Posts: 1,608

    earlymopar
    Member

    That much steering box slop can't be "adjusted-out". A rebuild or replacement is in order.

    - EM
     
  29. Sammy Cakes
    Joined: Jun 4, 2019
    Posts: 23

    Sammy Cakes

    Maybe someone is selling a decent one on here somewhere
     
  30. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,405

    alchemy
    Member

    The trouble is a box may feel nice on the bench, but once it is in the truck you can feel the extra slop.

    In your case though, I wouldn't be surprised if a lot (most?) of the slop is in the weird dropped steering arm extensions.
     

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