With a stock vortek 350, Edelbrock 600 carb, 700R4, 3.73 rear,, and 31" tires, I turn 2050 r.p.m.s @ 75 m.p.h. in a 2150 lb. steel roadster. Go figure from there. Good luck.
I had 2.73 rear gear in my 37 Buick with a straight eight and it was fine here on Texas flatlands but a pooch on hills in Missouri. Used a Bengtstens adapter to put in a 2004R behind the straight eight and a 4.11 rear gear which is the same gear as most of the factories used with an overdrive trans. The non OD 2.73 was ALWAYS 2.73 but now it's 4.11 to get the big barge moving and a nearly identical 2.75 final drive for cruising. Used the 2004R because a 700R4 would require cutting the factory X member.
Engine Torque vs vehicle weight Engine build components will determine your torque curve and at what rpm,,,,, Then you decide where you’re going to compromise reaching the goal,
I'm putting a TH350 in it with a 10 bolt 3.08 rear. Should work well on my 50 Chevy Convertible. Not a race car, just my little 283 tri-power hot rod
I'm doing a mild 283 tri-power (progressive link) with a TH350 and 10 bolt 3.08 (it came with). Should be a nice little combo.
My 60 Pontiac (avatar) has a 1965 389 .030 over, cammed up, FI Tech, 2004R and a 3.08 rear. Around town the car performs just fine using first, second and third like an automatic three speed non overdrive transmission. For highway cruising over 45 MPH you can electrically lock up the T/C in overdrive. I have an extra floor mounted dimmer switch and indicator light on the bottom of the dash that tells me when the T/C is locked up. At 75 MPH the RPM's drop to 1950. If extra power is needed I just unlock the T/C. The car has plenty of power when not in OD and gets great gas milage in OD.
That Pontiac,,, on a bad day it will put out over 400 ftlbs of torque at 2500 rpm. I’m positive all you said is true and I’m sure it’s fun to drive. However a 283 is not capable of the same torque output at those RPMs. It’s a comparison that needs some math. Find your ratio of torque to weight. Keep the OD the same Keep the rear gear the same Keep the T:W ratio the same
I had a 283 with a Z/28 solid lifter cam, a 350 turbo, and a set of 2.79's out back, when I first got my coupe on the street. It didn't like those rear gears at all. When I put the 283 in my truck, I swapped the cam for an Elgin 1785, and had a stock '40 transmission and rear with 3.79's, and the 283 was MUCH happier winding up higher. I'd vote for a lower gear ratio in the 3.55 and up range, at a minimum.
I tell you what I run on my Deuce roadster which is a bit lighter than your Stovebolt. A stock '96-'2000 Chevy 350, 700R4, 8" Ford 3.73 posi and a 30.5" tire. It comes out of the hole like greased lightning if you want to, cruises at 2300 rpm @ 80 mph, and delivers 22 mpg. With a slightly shorter tire, you can run 3.54 or 3.23 gears and be happy. With your 2.73 and a 29.5" tire, you will spin 1741 rpm @ 80. With a 31" tire, you will turn 1657 rpm. Those rpm's are considered by many to be a bit low as in lagging so I've heard. P.S. An 8" Ford rear, which is a dropout, is slightly smaller and lighter than a Ford 9" and will handle upwards of 300 hp without breaking, plus they are still around in V-8 powered Mavericks and Comets from the early to mid '70s. They are much cheaper than $600, they are narrow, and are a dropout.
Keemo no matter what a "283 like's" and the perfect "rpm range" or changing to a Ford rear. (different bolt pattern). Use what you have, don't spend unnecessary money and get the car on the road. THEN you can decide what you like or don't like, also I may be wrong but driving in 3rd gear (not OD) is like driving any car without OD. My non hamb Suburban has OD and I drive in 3rd gear all the time except on the highway, no problems. The car coasts so much in OD I'm on the brakes more so in 3rd it's just like a stick shift car. That's my opinion after reading these 3 pages of opinions. Some insightful and some not germain to your original question. Pat
I would not pay $600 to have gears swapped in a 69 cam$ro 10 bolt. Check your local classifieds within 50 miles, 67-69 cam$ro, 68-72 no>a 10 bolt rears (8.2 ring gear) are almost a give away when swapped out. 73-77 or so no>a rears are 8.5 ring gear 10 bolt and about 1/2 wider per side. Anyone selling used first gen cam$ro parts is worth asking if they have a 10 bolt rear, a lot of times people dont even list them for sale, but have them hanging around.
KEEMO, fill out your profile page and location. People can help you find things if they know where you are. If youre worried about big brother tracking you or wear a tin foil helmet on a daily basis. Just say what state youre in.
This post is almost a year old. But I will say with that kind of RPM going down the road it better have a lock up converter I don't care if the engine will pull it you are in stall range and the heat build up will be crazy. Many newer cars have temp lights that come on because the converter clutch quits working if you shift out of overdrive it will cool down saving the transmission.