OK, I bought a Speedway 11" disk brake kit for '37-'48 Ford spindles (PN 910-31945) thinking it would bolt into my '48 Ford Tudor Sedan. OK, ok, stop laughing! Suffice it to say that I am stumped trying to match the brake hose that came with the kit to the original tee on the driver side. I believe the thread on the female end of the original hose was 7/16-24 as was the original banjo bolt that went through the tee. The new hose has a 3/8-24 IFF female end. I ordered a new banjo bolt with 3/8-24 thread for a .425" banjo height (about the same as original) hoping that would be the fix. Wrong! The bolt has the wrong flare at the bottom and the shoulder is smaller than the original banjo bolt. I have yet to be able to locate a suitable tee that I could use as a replacement. I am using 3/16" hard line with 3/8-24 IF fittings. Original tee and hose: New hose and new banjo bolt that proved to be wrong flare and shoulder size: New banjo bolt I tried that didn't work: This is the latest thing that's keeping my car from being on the street. Looking for advice on getting this last piece of the puzzle solved. Thank you in advance for any advice to help me get this safely plumbed!
Greetings Ritzy1 ! I believe the rubber brake hoses you have will accept the flare nut and flare on the end of readily available steel ( or some less likely alloy) brake line carried by any auto part store what you will need is a TEE with the same thread and flare and do away with the banjo fitting completely...your local auto parts store SHOULD still Carry those as well....but then things ain't what they used to be, if not available locally try speedway or jegs etc.
The original banjo Tee fittings are neat if you are using all original stuff...but yeah, that's what we do nowadays, is get rid of it and replace it with 3/16 inverted flare fittings and associated Tees. The original banjo fitting didn't seal at the center, it sealed with washer, to the hose.
Yup, I've looked at the various tee fittings but am still struggling to understand how to connect a female tee to the female hose end. Anybody have pictures of how they made it work?
Replace the banjo tee with a regular tee and then run a short steel line over to the original hose bracket and new hose. Might be easier to make a couple new lines and move the tee further from the hose bracket to make it easier to run the new line.
That banjo bolt could be machined to look like the original Maybe the correct bolt is available Clean up the original banjo bolt and use it Or get another style tee
sorry I wasn't as clear as that...I guess things that are obvious to some of us, aren't obvious to others of us.
Thanks for all of your input. As I said, novice here. So, for the heck of it I took my puzzle by a local hose shop. The guy at the counter had an idea. He grabbed a -3 AN to 3/8-24 IF adapter and said he could cut off the AN side of the adapter and the 7/16 female side of the original style hose and solder them together to make an adapter to mate the new hose with the old tee and banjo bolt. I think it came out pretty nice. Now to see if it all plays nice together without leaking . . .
Looks like too many fittings and adapters. That will just be more opportunities for leaks and problems. I would just get a different Tee fitting and minimize potential problems.
Yup, probably overcomplicating it. I'll see about making it simpler. Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Did his name happen to be Rube Goldberg? If he used silver solder, it should be strong enuff. But do you want to risk your car, your health, and your life on it? If he used plumbing solder, no way should you risk it. Squirrel offered a simple solution, you should go with it.
OK, going the simple route per everyone's advice. Think I'm going to use a different hard line though, as the stuff I got from Speedway doesn't seem to want to flare nicely. Bought some coated steel line from Autozone and that seems to flare much better. Original tee with 3/8-24 adapters and bracket. New tee without adapters and Speedway bracket for hose. Still need to plumb line from MC and add line clamps.