Hot Rods Paint and labor cost how has that changed your perspective

Sorry, but nice paint and body work is non-negotiable for me. I'll figure a way to make it happen, even if it means more work and/or money on my end. It's really what separates the good from the great.

 

I'm with you, Jim. I'm building an old school 57' Belair. I've carefully bought slightly scratched items for it so it will look like a 60's survivor rod. Part of that will be a single stage paint job.

 

My last two deuces have satin urethane paint jobs, about the same prep but no sanding and buffing. I'm happy. Just bought a 40 coupe with a PPG Acrylic Enamel paint job, was my paint of choice in the past. It's an older build but the paint looks great.

 

Like I have mentioned before I can buy a lot of cool parts for my collection or entertain getting another project. Shiney is fine but it doesn't get you on or down the road.

 

talked to my paint supplier guy today. I want to do a review of different paint types in class when we get back next school year. Paint similar test panels with different types of paint. Oil, enamels, urethanes, lacquer,....
Single stage metallic vs base clear
Enamel, oils, alks with and without hardner.
Cheap clear vs high end clear
Check for depth, gloss, cut and buff charactists
Will it feather edge?
Prone to wrinkle?
May take a metallic base coat and spray thru different guns. From a #7 to HF to mid grade guns and high end guns

 

I for one would appreciate what your findings are.

 

I think I will take 2-3 students and have them do this as a class project.
The only thing we can’t test is color holdout or longevity.

 

That's cool the your able to do all that testing and free labor too. But it will be great knowledge for those kids.

 

It’s all part of learning. Spraying a single stage metallic makes you appreciate base clear

 

I’ve been shooting Eastwood paint with a HF gun. About $200 for base coat and another $200 for clear coat. Or $150 for single stage. I’m happy with it and I can fix it if it gets damaged. No high dollar paint jobs here. Not a show car. Not afraid to drive it. It’s a hobby for gosh sakes.

 

HF has the guns on sale this week
Under 10 bucks with coupon.

 

With the cost of paint I let someone else paint it now...If they screw up they can bear the cost to fix it and the new paints are not healthy to breathe...Equipment cost are to much for one or two projects..

 

That’s what I’m talking about. May very well do that myself.

 

Macco, for paint, worst case $1200 with some final body work and North Hollywood Upholstery for interior $2000, whole car for $3200, not too bad.

 

Time to move! It's the state where nothing is allowed.

 

Greetings fellow HAMBers!...the next one I finish ( if I ever call it FINISHED!) is going to get low dollar single stage urethane, that can be color sanded and buffed if my application is less than perfect ( as it will be!) ....I'm also gathering parts for a " modified " type zip around car I want to drive and have fun with without worrying about chips and scratches like I do with my toys that are pretty darn nice.....I'm starting to understand this original paint/ patina deal as I could drive something without much cancer or major damage but also without " good" paint...

 

I'd appreciate that too!

The holdout and longevity are surely additional, longer term, projects?

Chris

 

To perhaps answer your question as to whether the cost of body and paint has changed my approach, the answer is yes. First, whether the process is BC/CC or something else is irrelevant to me. I personally think BC/CC is the superior paint method, but that's irrelevant to how my approach is. Knowing what it takes to have nice paint and body has changed what projects I buy. I try to avoid cars that are "in between". What I mean by that is the paint and body are passable, but not great. Perhaps the body work is wavy, or the paint is dry and textured, or there is rust starting to bubble through in certain spots, or the paint is old lacquer, etc. What winds up happening is that you pay a premium for a car that still looks pretty good, where the seller can wax it up and it shines and they say "look, nice paint". But there is still some rust, or questionable (sometimes highly suspect) body work under the mediocre paint, and to repair it properly you wind up stripping the car down, cutting into it, and doing all the same body work and paint work to it that you'd have done if you just bought a complete project where you knew the body and paint needed to be done, which would have cost 1/5 of the price to begin with. So in terms of approach, I tend to concentrate on either nicely finished cars with very good paint and body, or completely trashed projects where I know I'm in for the long haul on paint and body from the get-go.

 

we thought about placing some of the samples on the roof of our shop and check monthly or quarterly
still would be a long term deal
there are way too many products to test all brands
but we can test the binder types offered, our local store sells PPG
we plan to test industrial and automotive binders/paint types offered by them
and add a couple easy ones like a rustoleum and some lacquer thats available from another source.

 

" Paint and labor cost how has that changed your perspective"
It is my personal opinion that this is one of the contributing factors in what started the rat rod craze......................................

 

and a push back on the billet laded cars from the late 80s thru the 90s

 

I totally agree with your assessment. Keeping the gaudy off a RR makes it a little closer to a jalopy of old. I think their is a freedom in not worrying about stone chips. My neighbor , had a 1964 Biscayne with a beautiful Marina blue paint job and he was always stressed out every time he took it to the Good Guys shows up in Washington or down to L.A. to visit family . He finally sold it and bought a Vette so he could just drive it even in the rain.