I want to paint the web on my chrome dropped SB axle the same color as my car. My plan is to scuff the chrome with a maroon scotchbrite pad and then paint with an adhesion promoter before spraying with an epoxy primer. Do you think this will work okay? Thanks , Bill
I've found that chrome has to be fairly rough for anything to stay on it for any length of time. I've done it many times in the past and used 80 grit to get it rough enough for good adhesion. I'm thinking scotch brite won't be enough.
I may be wrong but I believe adhesion promoter is used on plastics and other materials rather than metal.
Forget that it is chrome. Treat it as if it were bare steel. Sand thoroughly with nothing finer than 400 A thin coat of primer sealer would probably help adhesion. Under car finishes take a real beating.
I've done a couple, masked them first then red scotch-bright. Don't think they were primered and sprayed them with Krylon. The last one was ten years years ago and there isn't any chipping or flaking paint.
I have painted several chrome axles. If the web area hasn't been polished, I have masked the axle and just used a new maroon scotch brite. Lightly prime with an epoxy primer, then paint.
The adhesion promoter will not help. Scotch will not creat enough tooth . I would bead blast etch it then acid etch primer then paint. It will last forever. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I've also had good results from sand blasting chrome then using epoxy primer under the paint. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Friend just had the unpolished web on his freshly chromed SuperBell axle powder coated. Coater guy said it would stick; guess we will see. Buddy said he wore out his fingers spending about 4 hours peeling the heated and coated tape off in little shreds. Looks good tho.
That axle does look nice. You can buy powder coating tape that removes easily. Your powder coater should have some. https://www.thepowdercoatstore.com/collections/high-temperature-tape
Stuff the powder guy gave him to use looked like the same stuff in your link, green with a white plastic core. Wonder why?
Perhaps the right powder coating tape was not used for the temperature range required. https://www.echosupply.com/blog/2016/04/which-tapes-to-use-during-powder-coating Also, were the instructions for the "easy" removal of the tape followed? I would guess that the tape should be removed ASAP after powder coating BEFORE it has a chance to harden and bond with the area it covers and the edge of the powder coating. Perhaps you need to use a heat gun that emits enough heat to peel off the tape bunot enough heat to damage the powder coating. Again, I don't know the answer but, an experienced powdercoater should know, I would think.
I think Gearhead Graphics method is the easiest solution. Plus, it's cheaper and if you use high quality acrylic paint it will be very long lasting and durable.
Related question. Is the powder coat oven temperature high enough to lessen the chance of hydrogen embrittlement? Also does the heating have to be done right after the chrome process or doesn't that matter? Chroming a cast axle seems a little shaky to me.
Here's an article about this. Worth reading. https://www.google.com/search?q=chr...rome..69i57.6879j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
I wire wheeled an old chrome axle then painted it, over the years rock chips have happened and the dull chrome is shining through, so it'll need to be rougher than that.
It will stick, I've partially coated chrome bits before. One advantage is if you ever want to remove the coating (using a messy chemical stripper), you'll have undamaged plating under it...
It's less about grit and more about being thorough. A red scuff pad works but you'll need at least 2 full pads. This is price friendly and works well: https://www.semproducts.com/product/self-etching-primer/39683 Comes in grey or black. It's not a product that likes to be used heavy. 2 easy conservative coats and either overnight dry and scuff again or wait an hour and shoot right over it. Not like you're gonna drive it 100 MPH on gravel roads, right? Salt spray and snow? I bet not. Enjoy the journey and don't sweat it too much.
Being an electroplater and metal polisher for 35+ years ,I can tell you this .DONT plate any suspension parts on a street driven car, your insurance wont cover you in any accident , if it snaps due to hydrogen embrittlement . Chrome is easily removed with hydrochloric acid . 5 minutes usually .The heavy coating of nickle is removed in a Laybare bath .Think ,plastic trash bin filled with sulfuric acid and half a gallon of glycerine .Hang sheet roofing lead down inside on 2 sides .connect 12v DC cuppla hundred amps to the lead and axle (get the polarity right , now) do it half and half .takes about 20 minutes and Bobs yer uncle . WARNING ! hydrogen gas can explode ,so no sparking .eh
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