Technical Think I can slap a set of bearings in this?

I, too was trying to comprehend that, my experiences with dropped pickups has always been lack of oil pressure. Sure something didn't happen when you pulled the pan?

 

We'll assume you'll at least use plastigauge to check clearances.
The only stuff I'll use is various "grits" of CROCUS CLOTH. No sandpaper, or any other sanding medium.
Reason: Since the grit is made of crushed walnut shells, crocus cloth won't take steel off of forged (not too sure about cast cranks, but would guess same deal) crank journals, it will however remove the various soft bearing metals & dirts, leaving a very nice shine. Awhile back, did a lightly scratched (by dirt) stude crank in the car, when I replaced the bearings (for a quick rebearing job & regasketing/sealing job in winter, wasn't expecting ultra-long life - job on dd lasted 4 years, when I quit driving Lark due to rust/rot.) . Didn't remove the scratches, but cleaned bearing surfaces perfectly. It's all I'll use at work in replacing $400USD crank seals in the TK a/c screw compressors(it's also what TK specifies), hard grit = bye-bye. FWIW. Marcus...

 

Good info, now where to get locally...

 

Where could I pick up crocus cloth and plasti gauge locally in socal?

And is there a grit number for the crocus cloth I need to know?

 

Here you go https://mcfadden-dale.doitbest.com/categories/emery-crocus-cloth

Go with 320 grit

 

Virtually any Auto Parts supply store of any merit.

I believe crocus cloth is the next step beyond the finest emery and is defined by it’s name.

 

Oops there are various grits. But any grit is suitable, how fine is fine.

Also, Harbor Freight has a nice boxed assortment of strips on a roller very inexpensive. Easy to use like a shoe shine rag on round surfaces and to lay against a single cut file, overlapping the lead end for flat surfaces.

 

Can you. More than likely. Should you, no.

 

Well I want to know did you polish the crank a bit and put in the new bearings? Was it a success or a miserable failure?

 

That's local to me! Thanks!

 

Gotta get the cloth and plastigauge. I plan on doing this week.
Im also putting my 1970 C10 back together with a rebuilt motor and trans. This motor is in a 60.
Oh and swapping motor in my 1979 Glastron CVX 16 SS. Too many projects!
HELP!

 

Be sure and clean the shit outta that crank before anything goes togather,flush out the journal oil holes.

 

Im only doing the rod bearings...

 

Like was said only use emery and crocus cloth to polish the crank

 

I knew a guy had a caterpillar diesel. and wanted to rebuild the engine right. He let a machinist talk him into turning the crank and hard chrome the journals. It was real pretty a work of art. and it took longer to put the engine together than it lasted working in the D7. and then he was broke having borrowed the money to rebuild the engine. That chrome came loose from the journals. Another guy had a used crank setting in a shed. Gave it to them. it was rusty. They cleaned the rust off with fine sandpaper. and went and got the old bearings that they had removed at the start of the engine rebuild. put it together and it ran for many years. A friend got a new NAPA rebuilt short block. 283 bored .040 crank turned .020-.020. and it soon started knocking. NAPA wouldn't honor the warranty because he changed the cam and installed double hump heads. Him and I installed a old used crank cleaned it up and used .002 undersize clevite bearings. and it held up. and he tested it every time he drove it.

 

Well the rod bearings ride on the crank

 

Polish the crank with Crocus clothe...mercy...new bearings...see what happens.

 

The pickup on this one was so lose when I put it back in the pump. It only had 5 qts of fresh 10w40 in it when I found the issue.