This might be a dumb question and I already think it should be fine, but I though I might ask just to ease my mind. Are all brake fittings the same, not as USA vs China, but for applications. I found a brake fitting I'm wanting to use but it's for a golf cart. It looks to be ok thickness and looks automotive quality.......what say the pros here? The fitting in question:
It's a brass banjo master cylinder fitting that takes 2 x 3/16" inverted flare ports, you need to use copper washers on each side of the banjo fitting to prevent fluid loss and hold pressure. If it suits a golf cart it'd fit most likely many other applications. You require 1/2"-20 banjo bolt, washers are .609" ID x .810" OD x .030" thick. I'd be comfortable on face value, are other brake fittings DoT approved or generic to a minimum standard? https://www.vintagegolfcartparts.co...tTwoPort&sid=ac3z7s7me51r4yz37976rq7yn424j4ca
To categorize this as a “golf car” fitting simply because that’s where you found it is only one way to look at it. I think it more likely the fitting is a ‘standard’ part, suitable for most any application needing it’s shape and dimensions, that was selected for use on the golf cart.
it looks like something you might find on a car or truck from the 40s or 50s, and I would not hesitate to use it if it would fit what I'm building.
It's just a simple metal piece that when manufactured, had no idea what vehicle it is meant to be used on. One guy I know has had a master cylinder for a fork lift in his car for years and is working fine. I wouldn't worry about it.
There are 2 common flare types, the inverted or V shaped flare used on American cars and the bubble flare or metric used on European and Japanese cars. Then there are different sizes like 3/16, 1/4 etc. If the size is right, the flare is right, and the threads fit correctly it is the right fitting for the job. No matter if it came from a golf cart or a Peterbilt truck.
One thing to note, seems copper crush washers ain't what they used to be. The last couple of brake systems I did, I couldn't get any copper crush washers to seal completely. There are aluminum crush washers that work OK, but you still have to tighten the hell out of the banjo bolts to get them to seal. On my latest project, I didn't want to fight with them again, so went to stat-o-seals to get things sealed up, without the hassle of leaks and potentially stripping out threads. Seems all the copper crush washers I've been trying to use are either the wrong alloy and/or not annealed correctly. I'm done using regular crush washers and from now on will only use the stat-o-seals. The extra cost of them is totally worth it for me......I hate leaky brake lines
Copper work-hardens quickly, what I've done when I've had sealing issues is remove the washers and heat them to red-hot with a propane torch then let them air cool. This re-anneals them and has cured my issues with them. Clean them after with some steel wool to restore color.
you might check with kaiser willy's. They make jeep resto parts. If that's the fitting you're for, it looks like the master cylinder union. I have a 1955 jeep, i've ordered a lot form them, all i have gotten from them is good. It fits right, anyway
I agree, that's what I had to do in the past. This time around I didn't want to go through the hassle of fighting them to get a decent seal. I like to do things once and move on, so this time went a different route and am glad I did.
how did you quote crazy Steve when he did not post on this thread? I have seen this before and wondered about it
You might want to checkout a Jeep one : https://www.crownautomotive.net/Brake-Fitting/JA000557.html https://www.google.com/search?ei=Bn...41j0i22i30j0j0i10j0i131j46j33i160.ZJSfSQZDio0
They are available in several different sizes and from several different sources. The latest ones I used are for 7/16" banjo bolts. I got them from Speedway. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Goodridge-SS902-07-Stat-O-Seal-Sealing-Washer-4-AN,34188.html
@manyolcars If he posted while you were reading the thread it would not appear until the thread is refreshed. If someone posts while you are typing a post for that thread, a light shaded line appears to inform that another post has been made to the thread, but it doesn’t appear until you submit the post and the refresh occurs.
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