Replaced the Idler Arm bushing on my 61 the other day. (still has original control arm) I was told that upgrading to the 64-65 Idler Arm assembly will improve the time between that bushing going bad, but my real question is about the amount of flex that arm has. It twists even with the new bushing in there. Causing the right wheel to become miss aligned in corners. As anyone with a early 60's Ford should know. As you get into the Left turn the front feels like it is pushing at first then it over turns and you have to correct. Really want to get fixed for good. The 64-65 Idler Arm is much beefier as most that may read this know. My question about that beefier idler arm is does it twist like the 61 does or is it much more rigid? Solving the problem of that left turn push feeling. I would put a performance idler arm assembly or rebuild kit in if I could find one. Does not seem to be one though. If the 64-65 Idler Arm assembly still twists and causes that feeling of it pushing initially in left turns then I may take that 64-65 idler arm assembly to a machine shop and have it machined down for bearings or Brass Bushing.
When my Galaxie went wonky in the front, I put in upper and lower control arm bushing kits. If the idler bushings are bad, you should look at all of the suspension components. I did poly upgrades and a Holman-Moody sway bar in a 1964 Mercury. It went through the corners flat after that. Sent from my LG-H830 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
What do you mean twists? It turns on a shaft, where is the twist? How about a picture with an arrow showing the direction of the twist.
@arthurC3 Upper control arms and lower control arms rebuilt, HD swaybar added, Strut Rod bushings were not done, but there is no play in them and an alignment has been done. Tie rod end links are not sloppy. @BJR I do not have a picture right now, will get one. Best I can explain it though is the center link being on a different plain than the inner tie rod end and no play in it. When you have the left tire in the air you can push and pull as if to add or remove toe, the Idler Arm twists/rolls. I imagine if the center link and inner tie rod end where on the same plain it would not do this.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1umKcyKibO1MwynLC86gGAgv90V2g9SmD/view?usp=sharing Understand that the idler twists on the post and the post is tightly attached and not worn out.
There is a reason why '61-'63 T-bird owners convert to the '64-style idler arm/bracket assembly - it's beefier. The idler arm assembly (arm, bracket and bushings) gradually increased shaft and bushing sizes several times until the '64 style became the final version of it. Go to www.vintagethunderbirdclub.net and find the link to get you to the VTCI Forum and owner forums including 61-63s (both stock and modified). The topic of idler arms has been covered a few times over the 17+ years it's been around in its current iteration.
@Yutan Flash thank you. I will look into that. Really look to see if the 64-65 part still does the same thing at all.
Well since you're on steering, how's your column shift quadrant? All of those cars, through 66 actually, had a weak diecast shift quadrant in the bottom of the steering column. They wore out fast and made starting the car a bit dangerous. Working on it while running was still dangerous as the car can jump out of park and fall into reverse. Worth a look on all early to mid 60s Ford cars and trucks. This has been a Public Service Announcement. We return you to your regularly scheduled program already in progress.
@theHIGHLANDER it is in perfect shape currently. I do know about that little issue. the alignment of the shifter is on point too. It's the reason I always leave the steering wheel to the side or the car in neutral if it is locked in place. Thanks for the reminder.
As somebody who has owned a '63 and '61 T-bird, to answer your primary question: Yes, the 64 idler arm is an entirely improved design, the pivot shaft is approximately 50% larger, the housing is reinforced, the bushing design has been improved and strengthened as well over the 62-63 design. The '61 design was even WORSE than the 62-63, with an even smaller diameter shaft, simple rubber "pillow" bushing and abysmal tolerances once assembled. Please note that when I installed the '64 idler arm in the '61, it did require an alignment as it raised the steering rod a bit due to the slightly larger and taller setup. The idler on my '63 was BADLY in need of replacement as you talked about in your OP, with the sudden "flop" and the car darts wildly towards one side, trying to kill you. IMHO, replacing only the bushing is lipstick on a pig. Planning to replace it will serve you much better in the long run and you will enjoy driving it a lot more. Here's a great option for the '64 idler arm, bracket and bushing, it's a bit spendy, but it's money well spent in the enjoyment of driving your Bird! https://www.parts123.com/parts123/dyndetail.pta?catalog=0000030b&uKeY=AAARY Here is the '61 specific bushing which uses softer rubber, and less of it: https://www.parts123.com/parts123/dyndetail.pta?catalog=0000030b&uKeY=1281 And the later 62-63 bushing that was improved slightly: https://www.parts123.com/parts123/dyndetail.pta?catalog=0000030b&uKeY=1280
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