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Projects 1940 Ford 4-door restoration project in Europe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cjtwigt, Jul 31, 2018.

  1. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member


    Hi Sam,

    I have the hood on the ceiling because I have no room for it elsewhere and it won't go through the stairway to the attic. Putting it upside down and using it as a container is an idea that I will keep in the back of my mind.

    Regards,
    Chris
     
  2. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member

    Hi,

    I'm doing a restoration in order to get a license to drive the car in The Netherlands. I intend to keep the engine and overhaul the gearbox (it is leaking oil). I intend to replace the entire floor pan because it is rotten in a number of spots. In addition I need to fix the frame which is almost rusted in half in front of the rear axle. In order to do that I think I will have to drill the nails out of the frame, have it blasted and then replace the rotten parts. Then put everything together again and finally I will put in a fresh wiring loom as the car currently only has wires to run the engine.
    There are probably easier ways to restore it/get it back on the road again but I plan to do it this way. It will take some time but it will be tons of fun.

    I don't know much about the history of this car but so far no previous owner has ever decided to bring it to the scrapyard and I think it is beautiful and I will make sure it lives on for another 20 years.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2018
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  3. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member

    Today I managed to do some body work. I decided I wanted to repair the dented sheet metal that appeared under a hood mount.

    I took some measurements to record the locations of the holes for hood mount.

    Then I used an angle grinder with a cutting disc, a saw, several screw drivers in combination with a hammer, a spot weld drill, a wire cutter, and a center drill. In the end you find yourself surrounded by almost all tools you own..

    IMG_4617.JPG
    IMG_4619.JPG
    IMG_4620.JPG
    IMG_4621.JPG
    IMG_4622.JPG

    The hard part is to avoid cutting through the flange of the firewall and the top door hinge support (that somehow Ford managed to spotweld the sheetmetal to). You can spot the door hinge support in the last photo.
    The end result is not too bad considering the raw destructive power of an angle grinder.





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  4. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Hey, I recognize that cowl spreader bar. The bar worked well for me. I remember working in this cowl area. It is a difficult place to work and it takes some patience to cut away the outer skin without destroying the support structure behind it. Well done! thank you for the update Chris.
     
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  5. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member

    Hi Sam,

    Yes! I copied your spreader bar. Thank you for adding the size specs in your thread Sam!

    Regards,
    Chris


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  6. good work there !
     
  7. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,778

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    Don't know how I missed this thread previously, great work going on here. Seats in the attic, wow, that was no fun. Like Sam, I am spoiled by the available space that I have in my shop. Seeing what you have came up with to solve your space problems is inspirational. Keep up the good work and great posts.
     
  8. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member

    Thank you Okiedokie! So far, one of the advantages of a tight garage is that it forces you to tidy up very often and that it does not consume a lot of energy to heat it.



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  9. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member

    I did my first metal repair today.

    I decided to make the hole bigger first because I found more dents. I cut some more at the bottom and cleaned it up with a wire brush inside and out.

    IMG_4658.JPG

    Then - after a short test run with my TIG machine to find the right amps for sheet metal I decided 33 amps was good for tacking 1mm sheet metal. I clamped in a small piece and backed it with a strip of aluminum to dissipate the heat.

    IMG_4659.JPG
    IMG_4660.JPG

    Then I tacked it.

    F9993597-65C3-480A-A3CA-4A888B41A84D.jpg

    and TIG welded it all around with some pauses to prevent warpage at 31 amps without any problem.

    IMG_4662.JPG

    Then I started on a larger replacement part. I could not find clamps large enough to back this with aluminum however.

    IMG_4664.JPG

    I had never done plug welds before. First I drilled a too small hole (4mm). Then I retried with 8mm. But it still amazed me how hard it is to make it stick. It seems the old metal has a higher melting point and since the old metal is behind the new stuff it is hard to get a good weld.

    The end result with only mild warpage:

    IMG_4666.JPG

    IMG_4668.JPG

    It looks better at a distance

    IMG_4670.JPG








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  10. Nice first repair Chris. Never worked with TIG, still working with my German Elektra Beckum MIG welder that i bought new in 1990 :D

    Hennie
     
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  11. Baumi
    Joined: Jan 28, 2003
    Posts: 3,043

    Baumi
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hahaha, that´s funny, I´m still using an Elektra Beckum that I bought used in 1994.

    The 40s is a nice project! Have fun! 40 Fords are just beautiful.
     
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  12. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member

    A couple of weeks ago I hit on a couple more holes in the upper part of the cowl.

    [​IMG]

    In addition the area around the air vent is completely rotten. So I decided to cut out a large part around the air vent. My dad joined to help me remove the windows.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]




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  13. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member

    As you can see I cut as far forward as possible without cutting into the curvy front part of the cowl. That is because I found holes there as well. But this turned out to be not enough.

    I found more holes in the adjacent thin vertical part as well. The metal rot can only be seen from the inside.

    [​IMG]

    The metal is very thin there and when I start sand blasting I’m sure I will blow right through it without any problem.

    So I started thinking about a repair and bought a bead roller.

    Then I used paper supported by the cut out part to create a mold.

    [​IMG]

    The challenge is to fold the metal with the bead roller in exactly the same profile as the cowl.

    [​IMG]

    I had to modify the steel wheels of the bead roller for that. My small lathe had a hard time cutting through the hardened steel.

    [​IMG]

    With both wheels turned down 1mm and one rounded edge the fit is perfect. For your information: The offset (difference between the large- and small diameter) of each wheel is 7.4mm and the horizontal space between the wheels is exactly 3mm. The radius of the bottom is about 1mm. I used 1mm sheet metal so this will cause an outer radius of 2mm.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    But because the metal is stretched by the bead roller it distorts in the wrong direction.

    [​IMG]

    The only way to get this right is to take out the tension in the middle by making a number of cuts in the bend. You are looking at a prototype here.

    [​IMG]





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    Last edited: Feb 23, 2019
  14. BFXJason
    Joined: Jan 2, 2018
    Posts: 87

    BFXJason

    Coming along great Chris! I need to do the same repair near the hood hinges...now I know what to look forward to! hehehe

    Keep up the good work!
     
  15. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Thanks for showing us your thought process and technique for building your cowl vent piece. Those cowl vents are a nice thing to have on a warm day...... But if you live in an area with a lot of rain they can also be good leak source. I thought this car was all stock so I was surprised to see the cowl vent filled in until you showed the rust damage. Pleas show us more as you proceed.
     
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  16. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member

    Hi Jason,

    Thank you. During the repair I noticed that using a heat sink makes all the difference. I used a smal piece of 1mm aluminum clamped behind the spots to weld. That helps a great deal to prevent burning holes when welding (TIG).

    Start out with the lower part. That is the easiest bit. With the upper part you wil notice that it is hard to bend the metal completely into perfect shape before you start welding. It is best to start out at the back. Make it fit there first.
    Then you will see that it is very hard to make it line up at the front because you need to bend into a composite curve for that. What I did was the following: I made it fit perfectly at the back for the first 2 inches. I used a brake for the 90 degree angle and I also used the brake for bending it subtly to follow the curve up into the cowl. Once you have a good fit for the first 2 inches at the back clamp it into place at the back - the horizontal flange at the bottom - and then push it inward by hand at the front. Convince yourself that when you push it inwards at the front it will fit nicely. When you do that of course the back part will tend to go inwards too much but that does not matter. What matters is that is just clears the front of the cowl with the closest of margins. When you are happy with the fit then tack weld it from the back to the front and hit it with a hammer every time you need a bend to get better fitment. Good luck!
     
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  17. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member


    Hi Sam,

    The cowl vent edge was filled with lead apparently and the small gutter was completely rusted through/off around the edges. The only reason is was still in the car was that it is a kind of ring so it could not escape. I think I'm better off without it. The gutter - the way it is designed - is destined to gather rain.

    I will show more of this repair, you can count on that :) It is really daunting to me because it is in a very visible spot and I desperately want to match the old sheet metal and the hood contours for that matter.
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2019
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  18. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member

    Jason,

    I have received your knee lever shocks man!
    They have landed in Abbekerk.

    IMG_1740.JPG

    Thank you very much! They were missing on my car. Thank you!!!

    Chris



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  19. BFXJason
    Joined: Jan 2, 2018
    Posts: 87

    BFXJason

    Chris,

    Thanks for the tips! I tackled it today and it worked out great...just needed patience.

    Glad the shocks made it!! Awesome!!! You are very welcome.

    One step closer...right?
     
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  20. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member

    Today I proceeded with the upper cowl patch panel. I cut out the rusted flange. It had several holes in it which would surely be enlarged by sandblasting.

    [​IMG]

    Then I proceeded bending and resizing the patch panel. I cut it in half for convenience. It fits pretty well now. I also hung up the hood for trial fitting.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]






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  21. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Nice work! How did you bend that nose radius?
     
  22. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member

    Hi Sam,

    I modified the wheels of a bead roller and used that to create the flange in the panel.
    But the bead roller causes distortion, see my previous posts. I made several cuts in the distorted area in order to be able to bend the panel down.

    I did a prototype of the patch panel first to see if I could build the panel at all and to see if I could make it follow the original curves and hood close enough.

    It took a lot of time but now it is ready for welding :)



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  23. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member

    I finished welding. The top of the cowl. I had to cut the tacks out a number of times (lost count) because of warping. But it is in.

    IMG_5351.JPG

    I managed to sell my Dax Rush and I have more room in my small garage now.

    IMG_5454.JPG

    IMG_5455.JPG

    I reinstalled the steering column because in order to get the chassis right at the desired spot in my garage I had to turn it 180 degrees outside.


    IMG_5465.JPG

    IMG_5466.JPG

    Now I can start repairs on the chassis.



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    Last edited: May 25, 2019
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  24. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member

    This is the the first time I could take a good look at the chassis.
    So I did, got scared and then quickly left the garage.

    Then I got back into the garage and did a lot of looking and ass scratching.

    I decided to have the chassis sandblasted so everything has to be taken apart.

    So I started taking the exhaust apart. I was determined to cleanly separate the individual pipes that the exhaust is composed of.

    It didn’t take a long time to figure out that that approach was too hard so I took out my recipro saw and executed plan B. Well actually it was plan E..


    IMG_5472.JPG


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  25. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,524

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Having a plan is always good, having the ability to adapt and proceed with additional plans as needed is a necessary skill and part of the fun of working on old cars.

    I am enjoying watching your methods for solving your small space problems and can see that you are a highly skilled welder/fabricator.
     
  26. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member

    Thank you for the big compliment Sam!

    So far I had quite some plans that do not turn out the way I wanted to. To me the results so far are okay-ish. But I'm still on a steep learning curve. I admire guys like Zibo and BFXJason work more instinctively and dare to make big steps that seem irreversible. I'm more of a planner but I do hope for better plans than I had so far :)
    That body hoist for instance works well and it will go in- and out of the garage. However in my calculations I forgot to take into a account the space required by the movement of the garage door when it closes/opens. Fortunately the body can be moved back just far enough to allow the garage door to close :)

    Still it's is a lot of fun working on the car and I'm on fire now that I have room to work on the chassis. More updates are likely to follow soon.
     
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  27. BFXJason
    Joined: Jan 2, 2018
    Posts: 87

    BFXJason

    The great thing about these threads is we can all learn from each other and glean a little from all our talents. Thanks Chris - you are doing a great job! Keep it up!

    (BTW - I am getting ready to take the body off - you’ve given me some ideas...hehehe)
     
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  28. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member

    Hey Jason,

    Thank you for the reply. If you are thinking about some sort of rotissery it might be good to know that the roll axis of the body is just below the hooks of my hoist. I think it is not more than 1 inch lower - I can flip the body with one hand.

    If you are thinking about a cart check out Sam’s blog on the hamb. He created one and posted the plan/design in his excellent blog here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...upe-for-uncle-mike-build-thread.949053/page-3

    Grtz,
    Chris


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  29. BFXJason
    Joined: Jan 2, 2018
    Posts: 87

    BFXJason

    Thanks Chris!!!

    Wow - I checked out that thread...funny...I just spend a week figuring out and drawing up almost the same thing...glad to know it will work!!! Hehehe
     
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  30. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 148

    cjtwigt
    Member

    I have continued disassembly of the chassis. As you can see here there is a difference in thickness of the frame at top and bottom. I will have to repair the bottom part that has lost thickness as result of rust. You can also see the fuel line here. It was mounted to the tank and to the engine but no place else.

    IMG_5504.JPG

    I will have to repair these bits:

    IMG_5512.JPG IMG_5513.JPG

    I have decided to have the frame blasted before doing the repairs. To make sure that the frame makes it to the blaster in 1 piece I welded on some temporary steel strips to strengthen it.

    IMG_5546.JPG

    Sorry for the quality of this last picture.


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