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Hot Rods HACKSAW

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by oj, Oct 13, 2018.

  1. What's not to like about a 3/4 size '41 Ford clone. :rolleyes:

    Well, maybe 1 & 3/4 times the build cost. :oops:
     
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  2. TrailerTrashToo
    Joined: Jun 20, 2018
    Posts: 1,289

    TrailerTrashToo
    Member

    3 years ago, I bought my 1962 for under $3,000 and drove it onto a Uhaul car trailer. A '41 that starts and yard drives gonna cost a lot more.
     
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  3. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,454

    oj
    Member

    Well, it took a couple more trips to get wheels and tires on it and I made a tierod but we finally dug it out and gathered it up last Sunday. I had my camera and forgot all about taking pics, it was a Hamb worthy effort, we had to roll it a good ways down a steep hill without any way to stop it, it took some doing but I got my truck on the uphill side and used a snatch rope to guide it down to the rollback.
    Here it is, back at the shop:
    001.JPG 006.JPG 009.JPG 008.JPG
    He has the missing sheetmetal and other doors when I need them.
    The frame will be SFI spec and the main rails will be 2x3 tube, the rest of the structure will be mostly 1 5/8ths chromemoly round tube, ladderbar & coilover rear suspension; 9" Ford rear; tube axle front with trailer springs; I'm leaning to a TH400 transmission (I think I'll need 3gears); the engine is blown 392 hemi - what else?
    I have a good deal of the chassis design completed in AutoCad Inventor, if I can figure out how to import the file I'll do it.
    I'll modify an empty chassis jig and order up some steel. We'll build a complete rolling chassis before setting the body on it.
     
  4. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,628

    The37Kid
    Member

    Good to see progress! Bob
     
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  5. I understand the job in front of ya can't help but smile. Fond memories for sure. Here's a photo of my last one to help motovate ya as if you need it. Make sure to keep your joints tight as possible. On first Tec for sert. some inspectors get real critical about wide filler welds. They can make things very difficult for ya. Adjoining joint alignment is also important to them.
    Nov. 2011 005.jpg
     
  6. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,454

    oj
    Member

    Very nice work, looks great!
     
  7. Thanks for the kind words. Have you done this stuff before? Took me a few chassis to find a trick to get perfect joint alignment at the door X among other things.
     
  8. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,454

    oj
    Member

    I've done a few but words of wisdom are welcome.
     
  9. You mention using 2" X 3" rect. tube for main rails. I understand being getting Round tube to stay in place on a frame table can be tough. Heck, getting it to stay put anywhere during the build is tough. I was shown by a mentor how to get around that. Small pieces of channel iron laid out and tacked in place as needed and access to clamp a piece above so as not to need tacking the actual frame tube to anything. Always work off a center line. I'll get a photo of a tool I made to insure I always get exact line up across intersections shortly. How do you determine fish mouth and exact length of each tube?
    July 27 - 11 002.jpg
     
  10. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,454

    oj
    Member

    Lets not get ahead of ourselves, we'll bore others silly. The 2x3 rectangular tube is a class spec. They don't have many rules for the double A's, its like you're supposed to know what to build and they'll let you know if its wrong kind of thing. They spec a rear tire, ladderbars, torque converter, 6-71; there are some guidelines about wheeliebars, engine, front suspension, fuel injection type, header style and NO ROOF HATCHES! which I really wanted. There might be other things like parachute style etc. I've never seen a proper set of fixed rules for them.
     
  11. Got ya. So who does and where do you go for Tec cert? They actually require rectangle frame rails? I haven't done that since the 60's. I took some photos but if all your doing is a simple Roll bar that's pretty simple and strait forward. For a moment I forgot I was on the H.A.M.B. I'll go adjust my calendar.
     
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  12. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,454

    oj
    Member

    No,no - it is not a simple cage at all. It'll be dualrail chassis, proper funnycar cage with the main hoop just forward of the helmet - it is just the mainframe rail is box tube instead of chromemoly that gives it the vintage air. These are 7 second cars, make no mistake. I should have 1200hp, 2500lb and the chassis needs to manage it.
    NHRA does the certification and assigns a serial number to the chassis, I can have a tech guy come to the shop or go to a local track when they have a chassis certification day (usually early spring).
     
  13. Okay, same game the chassis I posted the above photo of. The NHRA rule book can often leave you scratching your head for clarity for sure. I was blessed with the local Tec guy being a personal friend as well. Sadly he passed away a few years back. Only up side is that I'm retired now so no need for his wealth of knowledge.
    This my look like scrap iron but I used it to match tube across the joint and it works very well. It don't matter if your doing 90* or long bologna slice through an intersection. It keeps all tubes involved as in line to each other as a rifle shot. Joint alignment seems to one of the things Tec guys really pick on with a first inspection.
    20190521_142048.jpg 20190521_142204.jpg I also only tack weld till the main chassis is all in place. This will give you an idea how it actually works.
    20190521_142456.jpg 20190521_142906.jpg
     
  14. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,175

    73RR
    Member

    Things certainly have changed since the builds of the early 70's......

    Nice work on the chassis.

    .
     
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  15. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,454

    oj
    Member

    Thats pretty clever, how'd you come up with that?
     
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  16. Strange what you can come up with when a 3rd hand is necessary and there isn't one to be had. I still find it amazing how simple it is, what it looks like and how well it does it's job. Wish I had a chassis here I could clamp it in place on so you'd actually see it on a joint.
     
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  17. Are you in tune with these tools yet or are you a hole saw, drill press or vertical mill guy to make your female joints?
    20190521_143521.jpg 20190521_143223.jpg
     
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  18. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,454

    oj
    Member

    I generally cut with bandsaw and touch the inside lips with grinder. I won't bother to tool up for milling bit or holesaw unless I use both halves of the cut, chomemoly is thin and quick to touchup with a flapper disc on a grinder and you are able to test fit while doing it.
    One of the things about joining the tubing that rarely gets mentioned is drilling the vent hole. When you weld all around the seam of a tube then pressure inside the tube(s) needs to escape or it'll blowout the weld you are trying to make. I take an 1/8th" bit in a drill and drill a hole into the tube I'm welding to where the hole will be covered by the tube you are adding. The holes are concealed. Along those same lines is when you double the material for cage uprights on a very fast car with high certification you drill a couple holes for the inspector so he can look inside the tube to see the other tube.
     
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  19. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,013

    belair
    Member

    Good stuff from you two. Thanks.
     
  20. At first, i was thinking gasser. Then, i looked at the second rendering. That looks pretty damn cool dropped down like that
     
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  21. OJ, Spot on about the vent hole. Another thing often overlooked is a center line on the tube your working with. It helps ya keep the notch on both ends of the tube in correct clock rotation to each other. Nothing worse than a pair of Premo notches on both ends only to not lay in place because they are out of time to each other.
    I can't remember the last time I tooled up to make a notch. The pipemaster tool lets you make an exact shape of what you need providing you set it at exact angle of the joint your making. Then just a black sharpie to transfer the shape on the tube and a 3" high speed cut off disc close to the line and a clean up on a post grinder. Generally by the 3rd time to the post grinder I have a finished part. Getting exact length when working with angles on both ends can also be a challenge for some.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  22. OJ, you might like this "Tube coping calculator".
    http://metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi
    You type in the variables and it produces cutting patterns for joining two round tubes.
    Just print out the patterns on standard 8.5"x11" paper & trace them onto your tubing. :)
     

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