I am looking to put these on an 8BA I have been building but I am unsure if I should spend the cash on the heads and still use bolts or studs. I like the idea of the bolt for a much easier way to remove and replace when needed. Do they make dress up kits for the bolts? Covers? Do people just paint them? Bellow are the heads I was looking at. https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/35...MIx72PnbCv4gIVBtlkCh1PdAUMEAQYCSABEgItavD_BwE
The stock bolts work just fine. Use Chevy head bolt washers under the head of the Ford bolts. Use #2 Permatex on the threads to stop water leaks. Chrome acorn covers are available.
I have stock bolts on both of my 8BA's with Edmunds heads. It has been a couple of years and I have no problems. I have had a lot of 8BA's over the years and scavenge all of the stock head bolts I can find and use only those that are perfect. I think they are better than the stuff you can get at the hardware store. I am lucky that the Edmunds heads.use stock length bolts; some heads require longer bolts. I also have several bags of the 11/16" acorn nut covers I have collected over the years. For the other miscellaneous bolts used on the engine (water necks, distributor hold down, etc.), I make my own with chrome or stainless acorn nuts from the hardware store, a hacksaw and some miscellaneous grade five leftover bolts. I chase the threads and use JB Weld to keep them together.
Okay so I have the offy 8ba heads and the offy stud kit in my cart. I guess what I am trying to figure out is if my stock bolts will work with these.. and link me the bot head covers if possible
If you ever have to remove your heads again you will be glad you used bolts not studs. IMO your heads would look better if you bought polished aluminum heads and painted between the fins with the same color as you engine block. Call vendor and ask what bolts fit their heads. Acorn nut covers are available also. OEM bolts were 11/16 in. Many after market are 5/8 in. Make sure you get the correct size acorn nut covers and Grade 8 hardened washers. Suggest you post on Fordbarn telling what type of engine you are building (stock or not) and ask for head recommendations that would be best for you. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flat...Chrome-Acorn-Nut-Covers-11-16-Nuts,20887.html
+1 on the hardened washers; I forgot that. They are readily available and not that expensive. Also, to be clear, the 5/8" and 11/16" mentioned above refers to the head size of the bolts. The bolts themselves are 7/16".
Correct on head bolt sizes. I reused the OEM 8BA headbolts on my 8BA aluminum OFFENHAUSER heads for many years with no problems. They were 7/16 x 14 with 5/8 head size Remember they only get torqued down to about 55 foot pounds. I know, folks say you shouldn't reuse head bolts but, my wallet wasn't big in 1970.. Of course , if you're building a "race horse engine" new head bolts are the best way to go. It's best if you write up an affordable plan and stick to it.
Awesome! I appreciate the help. Exactly what I needed to know... Now its time to search the 12v conversion and how it works with the overdrive on the 49'
If you're concerned about overdrive, you might want to consider staying with 6 volts. if your 6 volt OD components are in good shape. Replacement OD parts are hard to find and expensive if you do. My '51 is still 6 volts, and I have no problems at all. Good grounds and connections, the proper battery cables, and a 6 volt Optima battery will get you going with no problems.
One thing not yet mentioned is DO NOT run a tap down the head bolt holes to clean them up. Henry used a sliughtly smaller tap when manufacturing the blocks so that the bolts would fit tightly and seal up sine they are open to the water jacket. Most will seep water out past the studs or bolts if cleaned out with a sandard fit tap. Use an old head bolt wit slots cut in the threads t o clean out the holes unless you can find one of the very scarce FoMoCo chasing taps.
I used ARP studs and acorns from HandH. I did run washers under the acorns to make sure the threads were not bottoming out in the acorns. Also, I had to machine the bolt head surfaces on top of the Navarro heads to get a uniform surface (another reason I was worried about bottoming out the acorns and getting a false torque reading).
tubman makes some good points about sticking with 6 V. 6V has stood the test of time but, some say 6V high quality components (like in the old days) are getting harder to find, especially when "on the road". That's why you carry spares. However, if you decide to go with 12V consider using a Ron Francis Constant Voltage Reducer (CVR). That way you can still keep your gauges running on 6 V . Don't forget your heater motor. and radio and speaker system if you have one. I used a CVR on my 40 Ford 20 years ago and it's still working fine. I run no accessories. Best to call Ron Francis and explain what you want to do.I believe I used the VR-4 unit from Francis. 12V is nice if you plan to run accessories. Here's some info: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259991&highlight=converting+12v There are other options like the voltage reducers.Ford used in their 12V cars during the 60's. This has been discussed many times on Fordbarn so there is a lot of info there. Best to call Ron Francis and explain what you want to do.I believe I used the VR-4 unit from Francis. 12V is nice if you plan to run accessories. Here's some info: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259991&highlight=converting+12v Also be sure and read all of the following thread and links about converting to 12V . Also, does your car have an ammeter or volt meter gauge? Be sure to ask how to keep them operable. Do you plan to run a 12V generator or alternator? Here's some alternator info. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=247245&highlight=convert+starter+12V Will you be changing your wipers from vacuum to 12V? https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=254265&highlight=converting+12+volts There are plenty of folks out there (smarter than me) who have done this and really know their stuff. Plus, there are new electronic 12V conversion device improvements being made. So ask, ask, ask questions and formulate a plan. Don't go piece meal. Good luck. One last thought. Your 6 V starter will run on 6V but you don't want to keep cranking it continually. Eventually, the Bendix spring will break. My Bendix spring finally broke after 40 years so I converted my starter to 12V. Car starts instantly. Here's how to convert your 6V starter to 12V. When I did this I also installed a 12V Ford starter solenoid. There may be a way to use your original solenoid but, I am not sure. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211141&highlight=convert+starter+12V I found that once I converted to 12V , I gradually installed an electronic ignition system so as to do away with points. This is not required and many folks still use points. If you plan to install multiple carburetors in the future keep in mind the OEM 8BA vacuum system doesn't seem to work well with multiple carbs. Others can tell you more about this. OK, I am finished. Be sure to plan ahead. Don't throw away any old parts.
Yes, the OEM 1949-53 Ford/Merc flathead V8 uses longer bolts where the heads are thicker and shorter bolts along the bottom where the heads are thinner. I have some bolts I can measure if you need to know the length. Some of today' aluminum heads are thicker than the stock heads so this isn't true. Longer bolts are used.
The only issue is that my harness is deteriorating. and there are a bunch of electrical tape splices. I also have a 6v electric fuel pump that was added and I think might no need to be there now with the fresh rebuild and a pump rod that is actually making contact I have been thinking about using the 12v conversion offered by antique auto website.
I just found a pair of OG heads on Seattle craigslist for 50$ just gonna rattle can them and get it going.
I bought a new overdrive harness a couple of years ago (I think it was from C&G), and it fit perfect and wasn't that expensive.
Roy Naswisch(sp) he’s in Hemings out of Wisconsin has all the bolts you need you’d him what I had and sent what I needed Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Sorry to bring up an old thread. I'm brand new to flatheads coming from Chevy 235s. I want to swap heads on my '49 Coupe but I'm curious if aftermarket heads require sinking valves or do the flatheads not work that way?
Stefan: Read through all these threads. https://www.google.com/search?q=how...ome..69i57.15207j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8