Hot Rods Unsplit bones with a spacer.

I've seen folks put later V-8s in early Fords and instead of splitting the wishbone for clearance they simply use a spacer of sorts at the ball end to gain the needed room. Is there a name for this process or the spacer itself and wouldn't this put some bind in the perch pin to axle connection if no other modifications were made to the wishbone? Would this also change even incrementally the degree of caster of the axle?

 

Adding spacers would change caster and may pinch as you noted. I was once told spacers were used back when to make adjustments in "regular" cars and have a couple I picked up in flea markets and kept on hand in case. I do have an unsplit 33 wishbone on my AV8 using a Tardel K member and did not have clearance issues.

 

Like 3 and a half feet from the ball to the axle on a 32. I wonder how much you would have to drop the ball to make the caster change just 1 degree? I bet its a lot more than you might imagine...

Edit...just did the math...(I think!) and its actually less than I thought it would be. Seems like dropping 3/4" would increase caster 1*...if the wishbone were 42" from ball to axle. I actually expected more than that would be required!

 

Having never done this myself, to compensate for the slight increase in caster, a similar angled wide but comparable wedge between cross member and spring to spread the load evenly. The wedge could compensate and remove the additional load on the perch and shackles.

 

Thanks guys for the responses.

 

Don,I fabricated a 1" spacer to drop the wishbones on a 39 standard coupe to clear a FMX transmission back in the 70's.

I never experienced any adverse effects and think it actually handled better. HRP

 

I used a 1" spacer on my '40 to clear a C4/302 combination. It did not have an adverse effect on handeling and may have been better with the caster gain. A .733 spacer on a 42" wishbone increases caster 1 degree.

 

Ok...I rounded it up to .750 or 3/4" because thats a commonly available plate thickness. Sue me! LoL

 

Thanks everyone for the responses. 1 degree of additional caster actually sounds pretty significant. Is typical caster of a stock, unaltered Ford axle around 6 degrees? Seems like I've seen people use square tubing as a spacer that may actually move the wishbone an inch and a half or more. Is that safe?

 

Chassis Engineering Inc used to sell a pre-made spacer. I do not see it in their catalog...

I had one in my '47, did not notice any difference in the steering.

 

I have heard 6 - 9 degrees pretty good--so this being said, you are in the right ballpark even with a change. Not sure about the square tube idea. Seems to me you would want something to seat well into the hole where the present wishbone ball/socket goes and then effectively move the wishbone hole down and reform the socket. Maybe I am not envisioning what you are thinking?

 

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It's going to put a little stress on the shackle bushings.

 

Thanks guys. I'm not looking to do this to a car, just asking as I've seen it done on a few cars over the years that I've looked at considering to purchase. Never really knew if it was safe or effective or if it would be considered "half-ass engineering". Judging from the responses, if done well, it apparently has been done for years without any ill effects. No worse than other measures taken to achieve a particular goal.

 

Thanks for the responses everyone.

 

Don, I used another ball cup and a piece of 3/8” flat bar to make my spacer. Not sure how much it dropped it, but it is 1/2 of the ball thickness if that makes any sense. Both ball cups bolt to the flat bar, which is bolted to the cross member. It drives good.....

 

Don, Have been told by several people that spacing it down helps with higher speed (freeway handling) and helpd take a little strain of the steering box by making the steering wheel return a little easier. I actually have a spacer set up for my 39 and I am going to compare it with and with out and see which way it handles better.

 

That's interesting, Jason. Please let us know the results of your comparison.

 

I always ran my model A's at 7-9 degrees positive caster and they went down the highway very straight.. They were light and still easy to turn at low speeds....

 

Ever look at the front wheels on a 60"s rail dragster? They must have run 15-20 degrees to get great straight line control.

 

Reason I did mine was whoever put the SBC in it originally had the transmission pan sitting on the bones! Being it is the late style spring in front, I didn’t have any way to split the bones, so dropping it was my only choice. When I put the SBF and AOD in, I mounted the trans as high as I could without cutting the floor, and gained another 3/4” over what I already had with the spacer. I don’t think the bones will ever hit the trans pan, but if I ever have to change the filter I’m gonna have to either pull motor and trans or drop the bones.

 

I'm bringing this one back. I would like to get a bit more caster on my Deuce Coupe with unsplit wishbone and a 4" dropped axle. I happed to see a spacer in a vid of a car foe sale. Said it came from Chassis Engineering , but have not been able to find it online. I know I could fab one myself, but would like to see a detail of one if available. May not be worth making. Anyone have information on this? Thanks.

 

I think when CE was sold to Heidt"s they discontinued most of the straight axle parts or sold them to other manufacturers. I haven't seen the spacer offered. It may not have worked for you as it was designed for fat fendered cars.

 

Here is a photo of what I'm looking for. Thanks

 

The CE spacer I'm talking about was fabricated steel. The spacer you show should be able to be built by a competent local machine shop. I realize buying is normally cheaper than building.

 

It looks like Heinzman Street Rods has something like it. I will check with them after the weekend.

 

Heinzman part number AS2083 is the old CE part for a 41-48 Ford. Probably would no work on a deuce. I'd proceed in making the slick aluminum spacer you show in the above picture.

 

That is a nice looking part. I've seen them made from another cap and some bent flat bar but this is nice. Interested to see what you find out.

 

back up

 

Personally I’d just use two caps and cut the spacer out of plate steel. As said above, about 3/4” drop will get you one degree.