So, I need a simple keyed ignition switch for my 32 project, and I'm kind of at a loss for what to use. In the past with hot rods and jeeps I have always bought the universal auto parts store switch that has the thin little p.o.s. key, and the crappy bezel that always seems to loosen up and let the entire thing turn in it's hole. Is there a simple robust oem ignition that's easy to wire, mounts to a flat surface with a sturdy good looking bezel and has a real key, that would be easy to get at Napa ? Or a good aftermarket universal one ?
There are good name brand switches, but you're not likely to find them at auto parts stores. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/cole-hersee--ignition-switches--P009_275_001_005?recordNum=1 might be decent?
This outfit put's out some nice stuff also. Several to chose from. https://www.ronfrancis.com/departments.asp?dept=5
Yep, the Cole-Hersee stuff is top drawer and has legitimate amp ratings, not like too much of the aftermarket automotive crap...
I used a '66 Mustang switch, bezel, spring, and key and tumblers. I have a fiberglass Wescott dash so I had to slightly shorten the spring and collar to compensate for the added thickness of the dash panel. It looks like it belonged there all along!
Cheap and low fail rate https://www.walmart.com/ip/GSC-Inte...=sem&msclkid=0c26f960b86f143ba749a5835b8bed21
I'm using the late 60's early 70's Ford pickup switch. You can buy a Standard products switch, tumbler and plug for not much money. I did this because I wanted a double sided key. I found this to be a more durable option than the aftermarket universals.
A traditional highboy? Last thing you want to see is a keyed ignition switch. I think its Pete & jakes that has an ignition switch that you pull to 'On' and continue to pull for momentary 'Start' contact, release back to 'On'. They have a 10-32 threaded shaft and will match headlight switch knob. Those switches really are marine switches but kinda hard to find, the P&J's is good quality. If you want the security of a keyed switch you can add a hidden switch. Few things look more out of place in a traditional than a big old modern keyed switch.
The ignition switch is one part that will help "date" the theme of a "traditional" car. Back in the day rod builders used junkyard parts so an OEM switch would be the obvious choice. If your car has an '50s vibe then a '50s OEM switch assembly would be appropriate, etc. Flathead Ford-powered hot rods most often used a remote starter solenoid, an on-off ignition switch and a starter button. Once the OHV engines became common in wrecking yards the 4-position switch became pretty much standard. High-end builds sometimes used boat instrument panels and the accompanying marine switches. It's all a matter of matching the ignition switch to the era and flavor of your specific car. Good luck!
yeah, those chain store switches are terrible. I've been using a switch from '53-54 chev. They're simple to wire, & look vintage enough
Thanks for the ideas, keep them coming ! I would like a double sided heavy-duty key if possible,or at least a thicker automotive type one sided key. I'll look at the ford pickup, and early chevy units. Whenever I used those little thin keyed aftermarket ignitions, I feel like i'm starting a rototiller ! Marine stuff seems like a good place to look as well. I don't think I will put it on the dash, it will either be on the side of my column drop or down on the front of the seat riser.
I was going to suggest the same thing. You might try one of the suppliers that deal with he early Chevys. My AVATAR has the stock switch. Charlie Stephens
the thing about being able to get a good replacement unit at NAPA kind of kills the idea of using an old OEM switch. Although if it were my car, I'd definitely use an old OEM switch. Like for a 55-56 Chevy car or 55-59 truck with V8. Then you'd need to find a good nut and also be careful cutting the hole for the switch, so you leave the tab that keeps it from turning.
I went through several switches and then installed a Ron Frances switch that has performed AOK for several years now...……...
Old school rods look great with a 32-48 Ford column drop with toggle & column lock, but you are probably too far into the build to use one now. Those years used different amounts of drops to fit most any dash you'd put in a 32. I used a 46-48 drop/ign/lock with a 40 dash in a 32.
If not early Ford , have a look at Brillman for good quality generic stuff. In Junkyards, look at elderly big trucks and trailer mounted motors on portable compressors and pumps for solid and slightly obsolete electrical parts.
I used a 40 ford column mounted switch and separate starter button. Beauty of these is you can incorporate the factory locking steering wheel feature and hide the starter button plus it has an off-on switch. And it has it's own column drop.
Cole-Hersee 2 position key switch and a start button by the same. Got them locally at West marine. Mounted in one of Crafty B's switch panels.
The only thing to say about buying cheap electrical switches is it leaves room in the budget to buy a fire extinguisher.
I’ll second whoever said use an OEM of the time period you’re aiming for. Plenty of NOS vintage options on eBay. You get *actual* vintage parts that fill your need.
Try fleabay for new 3-4-5-6 Chevy. Then you can buy a repop bezel to hold it in place. The repop for the tri 5's are a little ifie
I have several old units I've collected. The real reason I use the switch I suggested is because I hide ballast and coil under the dash so bypass is right there. I also wire engine compartments so no wires are visibly in site except plug wires.
I agree , the parts store " universal " ign switches look horrible. The keys even look ugly. The knurled retaining ring looks ugly.. And they are pretty much offshore junk parts. Quite by accident I discovered a john Deere ign switch that looks awesome. The nut that holds it is hexagonal and is stainless. The switch is compact ( short and small diameter ) on the backside. Has accessory position also. Best part ? The key is compact as well and has the john deere logo on it. Your friends will never be able to grab your keys and start your car unless you share the secret.. Several years ago I posted pics and part # . Maybe someone better at the search function can find my post.. If it cant ge located , I will go to the JD dealer and get the # again.. Dave Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Here is your post Dave Ok, Here is the real deal.... JD switch # AR 58126 nut # r 44342 ( its stainless , not chrome ) switch is $ 29. , nut is $8. Jd dealer anywhere stocks it.. switch has pollak (brand ) # 193-1 cast on the body ( I think its just a casting # though ) Best of all , DRUM ROLL PLEASE..... Made in the U.S.A ! Dave .
I bought one that American Autowire sells. Seems like a good quality switch and the keys are decent quality too. I was told it’s probably a Cole Hersey product by Jeremy at Rebel. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-500456
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