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Technical Disc Brake Conversion

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by 52 Vicky, May 7, 2019.

  1. 52 Vicky
    Joined: May 4, 2019
    Posts: 31

    52 Vicky
    Member

    Hello,

    First post other than my into post. I am new to classic cars so please bare with me. I just bought a 52 Ford Crestline Victoria. I am looking at doing a disc brake conversion. I am having a little trouble with my research because of my lack of knowledge and the fact that I am not working on a Mustang with 1m parts and 2m people that have already done the upgrades I am looking to do, so here I am. I plan on doing a dual master cylinder along with the disc brake conversion but I am having trouble understanding the whole rod bore.

    Here are the kits I am looking at:
    https://jamcosuspension.com/products/sfID1/33/sfID2/39/sfID3/234/sfID4/35/productID/458
    https://jamcosuspension.com/products/sfID1/33/sfID2/39/sfID3/234/sfID4/35/productID/2773

    And the MC I was thinking:
    https://jamcosuspension.com/products/sfID1/33/sfID2/39/sfID3/234/sfID4/37/productID/3113

    What are your thoughts and advice?

    Thank you
     
  2. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    JeffB2 likes this.
  3. Keep the drum brakes and add a dual master, the discs are fine, but so are the drum brakes the car came with. A dual Master is a good safety upgrade for sure. I know some will say you have to upgrade to discs, but if you know how to drive your car it is not needed, with a good adjusted and well maintained set of drums.
     
  4. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    We will bear with you but we're not getting naked with you ! :eek: (Bare with you ) :D:D
     
    Bandit Billy likes this.

  5. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Drums are great until some guy in a new Mercedes nails the brakes in front of you and you don't have any place to go. My drums always worked great for drums but I always gave myself those extra stopping distance spaces with the 48 that seem to be all too attractive to Honda drivers.
     
  6. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 12,286

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    :eek: Civillian, Put down the mouse and step away from the keyboard! :eek:
     
    Blue One likes this.
  7. 52 Vicky
    Joined: May 4, 2019
    Posts: 31

    52 Vicky
    Member

    Just got off the phone with Wilwood, not a fan of having to use exclusively their brakes and rotors if i go with their kit. Definitely going to check out scarebird a bit more. Thanks for the suggestion.

    One question on those though. The linked product says the rotors used are from a 70 to 73 mustang. Any idea which trim mustang came with 11 1/4" rotors?
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2019
  8. KoolKat-57
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 3,073

    KoolKat-57
    Member
    from Dublin, OH

  9. There was probably only 1 rotor in that span of Mustangs, maybe 2. Like KoolKat posted, Rock Auto offers a lot of information on what they sell. I saw the Wilwood kit for my car after I went with something else. They are definitely on the higher end scale.
     
  10. martyk98
    Joined: Jun 12, 2006
    Posts: 134

    martyk98
    Member
    from washington

    If you're close enough to a bone yard: 76-77 Comet/76/77 Maverick/76-80 Monarch/76-80 Granada all fit. There are others. Some might need a slight reem on the lowers but direct fit. Use Aerostar springs 1990-93 for 2 inch drop. 3" blocks in the back and you're ready to cruise. You have the same frame I do....
     
  11. Those will fit the '54-up cars, but not his '52. Ford still had the kingpin front end until '53, no balljoints.

    Nice thing about Scarebird is they tell you what additional 'standard' parts you need, there's no 'proprietary' parts that will need replacing down the road (like special rotors) that you'll have to buy from them. While the 'everything in a box' kits are handy, they're not always handy when you need a part on the road.

    If the car has been or will be lowered, ask the vendor about that. How that is done sometime affects kit fit.
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  12. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,174

    manyolcars

    Stay away from scarebird.His parts did not fit without grinding on my spindles and I didn't want to do that! There are other better vendors
     
  13. Any one with a V8....
     
  14. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,883

    rusty valley
    Member

    if you hit the car in front of you, you are following too close. disc brakes suck
     
    Blacktop VooDoo likes this.
  15. flatheadgary
    Joined: Jul 17, 2007
    Posts: 1,012

    flatheadgary
    Member
    from boron,ca

    join the 1952-1959 ford social group. go to the top of the page and the second from the left under the hamb logo, put your cursor on the one that looks like 3 people, next to the magnifying glass. go down on that thing until you see social group. once there, click on brands and go down on that and you will see the 1952-1959 group.
     
  16. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,795

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    flatheadgary, I'm also interested in that social group. It says private and when I click on it there is nothing there. I am an Alliance Member. Any ideas?
     
  17. When you get to that page, look on the far right where it says 'thread tools'. Click on that, then click on 'join forum' and you're done!
     
    jimmy six likes this.
  18. 51504bat
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 4,755

    51504bat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You might check out Shoebox Central
     
  19. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,795

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanx Steve... Worked perfect..went right in.
     
  20. dansdiner
    Joined: Nov 20, 2018
    Posts: 9

    dansdiner
    Member

     
    JeffB2 likes this.
  21. dansdiner
    Joined: Nov 20, 2018
    Posts: 9

    dansdiner
    Member

    Keep drums have them on a 57 Ford.....just add a 66 Mustang drum brake dual master cylinder.....you will stop fine. I have had no problems and driven alot.
     
  22. I bought a disc kit off of eBay and a master from a 60’s Mustang for my 53. Easy, quick and fairly inexpensive. Drums on the rear. I drag race with it and it shuts down nice after a run with no fade. There are a lot of kits for these and you don’t have to go big name brand to do it.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    Kustomline54 likes this.
  23. dave plmley
    Joined: Oct 24, 2014
    Posts: 195

    dave plmley

    Sure thing, keep your drums "brake are for pussys"
     
  24. Now that most cars have ABS, you need the extra margin discs give you in reaction time and better fade resistance.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  25. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,484

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    You could go all out with this and their power brake unit: https://www.performanceonline.com/1949-53-Ford-Custom-Stage-3-Tubular-Control-Arm-Suspension-Kit/ Or you can do an upgrade using Ford parts and keep some money in your pocket. 1952-54 fords use the same brake shoes front and rear as 1967-69 Mustangs the 50's fords did not have self adjusting brakes the hardware kits and self adjuster kits from a '67-68 Mustang can be used on your Ford total cost abount $30 For an upgrade in brake linings instead of the el cheapo semi-metallics from your local parts store there are these: https://www.performanceonline.com/1964-73-ford-mustang-front-high-performance-brake-shoes/ & https://www.performanceonline.com/1964-73-ford-mustang-rear-high-performance-brake-shoes/ Then you add this and you will stop on a dime https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-STREET-R...m=222564079193&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
     

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