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Technical '36 Chevy Truck - old thread, new question - wheelbase issues

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 1pickup, May 16, 2019.

  1. 1pickup
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,435

    1pickup
    Member

    OK, I think I know the answer after too much time looking around the web, but need to hear it from the experts. I have a '36 Chevy Truck, but I need to know which frame it has, as it seems they were changed mid-year. Can't go by the cab, 'cause it's a '37. It looks to me that the late '36 & newer have a distinct downward curve to the front frame rails, which makes the forged spring hanger/bumper bracket angle back upward. Mine seems to have a little flatter front rails, & the forged bracket sticks out fairly level. Also, the inside lower frame rails where the engine sits, are not parallel with the upper part of the C channel. If that makes sense. i.e.: If you were to box the frame rails, you would need to trim off a bunch on the bottom of the frame. So, I'm guessing it's an early '36, which makes it the same as '34-'35?
    Front suspension is gone, & I'm considering the Speedway dropped tube axle w/ parallel leafs. Is 6" dropped axle too much for running full fenders?
     
  2. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,335

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Can you post some pics of it?
     
  3. 1pickup
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,435

    1pickup
    Member

    I'll try to put some this evening. It's a long process of using my wife's phone & computer. My flip phone & old PC don't lend themselves very well to picture posting.
     
  4. 29moonshine
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 1,341

    29moonshine
    Member

    on my 36 high cab the bottom of the frame is a little wider and curves up
     

  5. 1pickup
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,435

    1pickup
    Member

    Didn't get to the shop, so found these on the web. First pic is what I think the late '36 - '38 (low cab) looks like. Is this correct? attn: @cshades The front spring hanger/bumper mount angles upward & the tops of the frame rails seem to angle down more. Which makes sense so the bumper bolts at the correct height.
    Second is what mine looks like, which I assume is '34 - early '36 (high cab). hanger/bumper mount is shorter, doesn't angle up, frame rails seem a little flatter, & lower part of the "C" channel on the frame rails flairs in toward the engine.
    1937 chevrolet tim 3.jpg Photo06 - copy.jpg
     
  6. 1pickup
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,435

    1pickup
    Member

    So, which of these pics does it look like?
     
  7. Fishstik
    Joined: Nov 24, 2016
    Posts: 6

    Fishstik

    My 1936 low cab frame looks like the 2nd picture. The running board brackets have an extra curve on them and the front frame horns are straight...
     
    badvolvo likes this.
  8. Joe H
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,525

    Joe H
    Member

    This may help, I can't find anything on the high cab frames, but suspect this is a comparison between high cab and low cabs.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. As far as I have ever known, both high and low cab 36s shared the same frame design. Chevy /GMC changed frame design in 37, the first pic is a 37 -38 and the second is 36. The 36 Low Cab was a half year only cab, they didn't redesign the frame for that. Should be the same basically 34-36. I have had my 36 for over 40 years and have done a ton of looking at others,, just my 2 cents. Mitch
     
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  10. 1pickup
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,435

    1pickup
    Member

    @Fishstik @Joe H @mitch 36 Thank you! These are the answers I was looking for. I was misinformed, I guess. That diagram shows exactly what I was trying to explain with words, that may not have been as clear as they could have been. After doing extensive web searching, & coming up with less than stellar answers, I knew you guys would have the info. I did see one place listed their '34 MII front kits as different than '35-'36, so that also made me wonder how many different frames were used in those years. Anybody know thew stock front track width? And the spring length? Mine is missing the rear spring hangers on the front, as it had an old IFS (60's) installed.
     
  11. I wish I could help you there, years ago, much to my dismay, I axed the leafs and I beam and installed one of those new fangled front suspensions we're never to speak about. I'll look in the spec book I have hidden somewhere and see if I can come up with the front track width. As for the spring, just figure your wheel base and find some front springs from an early Chevy truck that has the center pins in the right location, rebuild them and fab up some rear hangers. As for the axle, all the way up to 54 Chevy 1/2 ton will work. Mitch
     
    badvolvo likes this.
  12. 1, looked in a couple places and cant find the front track measurement. I know there are a couple guys on here with 36 stockers so maybe one will chime in. If you plan on using a FORD axle/ parallel leaf setup under her, you shouldn't have any issues going full fendered. Good luck, Mitch.
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2019
  13. 66gmc
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 603

    66gmc
    Member

    The spring mounts on my 36 frame are 35 3/8" center hole to center hole.

    The center pin on my unloaded worn out spring is 17" measuring from the center of the front spring eye to the center of the pin hole.

    Center eylet to eylet on unloaded spring is 35 5/8

    Jim Carter has reproduction front springs, or Posies has 3" drop superslide springs available for a 36. Rear spring mounts for the front should be easy to fab up or you might be able to use the more common 47-54 chevy brackets. I believe the rear spring bolt is the same from 35 to 54

    Sent from my SM-G950W using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  14. Joe H
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,525

    Joe H
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  15. 1pickup
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,435

    1pickup
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  16. 1pickup
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,435

    1pickup
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    Bringing this back up from the dead. Back on this project, but scratching my head a little. Was there any trucks that had a shorter than 112" wheelbase? Trying to find the front axle centerline. From the pdf above, it looks like 18 5/8" from the front of the frame. So, using that my wheelbase looks to be about 108 1/4"? Figured that can't be right, so I bolted the running board brackets on, to locate the fenders, etc. Wheels seem to be centered pretty close to where they need to be. Rear end was installed by P.O. It seems to be correct. What am I missing?
     
  17. 66gmc
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 603

    66gmc
    Member

    This is with all stock suspension loosely bolted in place. Wheelbase is 112". Your front axle centerline measurement is correct. It sounds like the previous owner goofed up the rear end install. Does it have factory leafs and spring hangers in the rear? There is a bracket rivited to the rear frame kickup (see photo) the rear axle should be more or less centered on this bracket and visually centered in the kickup.
    If possible post some pictures of what your working with. 20191006_194720.jpeg 20191207_182827.jpeg
     
  18. 1pickup
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,435

    1pickup
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    The rear end is a complete '65 Chevelle unit. Control arms included. I still have that bracket attached & thought that it should be centered above the rear. My rear axle is a little forward of that. But after loosely fitting the fenders, it doesn't look that far off. Kinda hard to tell, unless I would bolt all the brackets & fenders on tight though. It's so much easier to build from a stocker, than to try to complete somebody else's project. Especially, one that's been apart for so many years. Thanks @66gmc for those pics.
     
  19. 66gmc
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 603

    66gmc
    Member

    The 36 I posted pictures of started as a basketcase with parts from 4 different trucks that had been apart for more than 40 years. I discovered that there is a lot of misinformation online about these trucks, so I ended up just bolting the entire truck together as a stocker so I had a point of reference, and have been working backwards from that. The internet is a great resource, but sometimes the old school way of figuring things out is best.
     
  20. Rocky72
    Joined: Nov 22, 2008
    Posts: 207

    Rocky72
    Member
    from Pa.

    The second pic that you posted that you said looks like yours is the same as mine on my 36 low cab . I would post a pic but I took off the front leaf springs and changed the front axle and spring .
     
  21. 1pickup
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,435

    1pickup
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    A plan is starting to form here. I'm thinking I will tack the front suspension in & get the front all buttoned up where it belongs & leave the rear where it is for now. After getting everything from the back of the cab forward where it needs to be (running boards, cab, front fenders, front suspension, etc.) I can decide if the rear needs to be moved back. I was planning on leaving the P.O.'s rear suspension in there. I like triangulated rears & coil springs. But, if the wheel doesn't look right in the fender, it will have to come out. I have a bunch of metal repair to do on all the fenders, boards, etc. Would have been so much easier to build a fenderless truck.
     
  22. 1pickup
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,435

    1pickup
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    Searched the web & did find a body manual that covers several GM makes/models, but is there a specific '36 Chevy truck manual? Couldn't locate one & I don't know how this thing goes back together. I'm wanting to bolt the front fenders on to assure my front axle centerline looks correct.
     
  23. KJSR
    Joined: Mar 7, 2008
    Posts: 2,494

    KJSR
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    from Utah
    1. Utah HAMBers

    Full fender trucks rule! :)

    What are you trying to put back together? Pictures of the pieces in question?
     
  24. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,931

    squirrel
    Member

    Body manuals are for "body by Fisher" cars. The truck bodies were built by Chevy, not Fisher.

    The factory assembly manual is what you want, but they don't go back that far. The normal truck shop manual is probably as good as you're going to get, unfortunately.

    But it's not really rocket science...take your time, patience is the key.
     
  25. 1pickup
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,435

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    @squirrel - I have a '35-'36 Repair manual, but it's mostly mechanical & most of that has been updated. There is no chapter on the 327 option. ;) So, it's not really much help. You are correct, an assembly manual is what I wanted. Oh well. I will have to dig through the pile of parts to see what looks like it will bolt up.
    @KJSR - I need to put the front fenders on to check my wheel placement, but don't know if I need to install the inner fenders as well. I can't see where the fender brace bolts on either. I assumed it went to the frame, like a Ford would, but I'm not seeing the bolt holes. I'm also trying to do this without the cab mounted either. Do I need the radiator mount in as well? Id sure like some pics of how this goes together. I'm sure I will figure it out, but a shortcut is always appreciated.
     
  26. Dave check your PMs. Mitch
     
  27. cshades
    Joined: Sep 2, 2011
    Posts: 554

    cshades
    Member
    from wi

    Dave I am going to throw my 2 cents in here after building a few trucks. Put it all together before making anything perm it will come back and bite you if you don't. ask me how I know. It is a lot easier at this point than after everything is welded and you are installing 0fenders and it doesn't look right. an inch off either way looks terrible.
     
  28. KJSR
    Joined: Mar 7, 2008
    Posts: 2,494

    KJSR
    Member
    from Utah
    1. Utah HAMBers

    Inner fenders are not required......I don't even run them. The radiator mount/grille shell needs to be mounted. I cant remember where the fender supports mount but I can look on Friday. If you need some pics PM your # and I can text you some. I will also look at my build pictures to see if there are any that can assist.
     
  29. 1pickup
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,435

    1pickup
    Member

    @KJSR - I already got a PM from @mitch 36 with a helpful pic. I just wasn't sure which parts I needed to pull out of the pile, to make this work. Or, if I even have everything I need.
    @cshades - Good advice Chris. I know yours is a little newer, so probably not the same. I wanted to hang the fenders, check the wheel placement, then burn it in. But, now I'm thinking it may be smarter to get it all mocked up first. Only problem with that, is there is a lot of fender repairs, etc to be done. Was kinda hoping to get it drivable fenderless, then start on the fenders, box, etc.
     
  30. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,931

    squirrel
    Member

    Take the time to mock it all up. Spend time staring at it, before you weld things together.
     
    X-cpe, NoSurf and tb33anda3rd like this.

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