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Technical Rust converter

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Darin Younce, May 11, 2019.

  1. Darin Younce
    Joined: May 8, 2019
    Posts: 589

    Darin Younce

    Any of you fella's ever used and had success with a rust converter? Back aroumd 2002 , I experimented with some different rust type paints like por 15 on an old dump truck and seems I tried some sems rust mort on something but I was selling most things I tried these on so I dont know the long time results
    My 47 has some places , mostly front suspension , springs that have a very light amount of rust. Wouldn't take much to get rust off but with thought about using wire brush , scuff pad and what ever and then trying something like Skyco Ospho or Corroseal .brand . Eastwood has some products as well. Did some research on some of these but not convinced they will work. I used to disassemble everything and sand blast , prime and paint but sold sand blaster and large compressor and have no desire to buy another set up.
     
  2. Hdonlybob
    Joined: Feb 1, 2005
    Posts: 4,115

    Hdonlybob
    Member

    Interesting question...will be anxious to hear some answers..
     
  3. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 5,053

    rusty rocket
    Member

    I buy citric acid in a four or five pound bag on amazon. I have several improvised soaking tanks from a coffee can to a piece of rain gutter capped on both ends. I mix the citric with water ( no certain mixing rate) drop the part in for a day ( sometimes more depending on how rusty the part is) and then wire wheel. Parts usually look like the day they were made. I have a few posts with pictures on my build thread. save of the day( single seater)
     
  4. Not a converter,but I use a red primer called rust destroyer that comes in spray,or cans.It comes in a white/green can,and has a Army tank on the label.I clean up the rust problem as best I can then paint it with this product.Its a heavy oil type paint that takes a while to dry,but it does a great job of controling rust.I have non car steel items that I have used it on that sit out in the weather year after year,and the rust doesnt come back.The back step bumper on my work PU looked crappy 4 years ago so I wire wheeled it.Shot it with this paint then painted it flat black.Still looks rust free.
     

  5. RDR
    Joined: May 30, 2009
    Posts: 1,480

    RDR
    Member

    Have used Ospho and had good results.
     
    JeffB2 likes this.
  6. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 1,534

    Doublepumper
    Member
    from WA-OR, USA

    I've been using Corroseal lately and it does work well on rust. I use Ospho on stuff that is already clean and fairly free of rust. Both do what they're supposed to. When using either one, I've noticed primer or paint needs to be applied soon after to keep rust from reforming.
     
  7. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,913

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I sandblasted the bottom of my '51 Ford in 1987 and painted it with POR-15. I did the suspension as well. 32 years later and it's still holding up. A couple of things to note : First, I do not drive the car in bad weather with the rare exception of being caught in a sudden rainstorm. Second, POR-15 is sensitive to sunlight and will deteriorate unless overcoated with something or it is shielded from sunlight. Being the underside of the car is never exposed to sunlight, it has worked out OK for me.
     
  8. Flathead Dave
    Joined: Mar 21, 2014
    Posts: 3,959

    Flathead Dave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from So. Cal.

    I used a rattle can of black rust converter on my coupe. I got it at PepBoys.
    I used it on the really tight spaces like where the windshield pillars are hollow and sprayed down them. Sprayed under the dash area where a brush can't get to. I just sprayed into the super tight areas.

    It gave good coverage and dried smooth and eight years later it still looks like the day I sprayed it.
     
  9. fordflambe
    Joined: Apr 9, 2007
    Posts: 573

    fordflambe
    Member

    Not a converter but a dissolver........I use EvapORust for small parts (use plastic storage tub to soak parts in) and get it at local parts house. Rinse with water while scrubbing with soft brush, dry then prime and paint with your favorite paint products. It works great.

    Local professional builder friend of mine uses Ospho with scotch-brite pads for first treatment. (you are working close to Ospho so USE A RESPIRATOR and GLOVES). He then reapplies Ospho and scotch-brite again and while damp, wipes with lint free wipes. Lets dry for 24+ hours before proceeding with primer. All metal prep techniques must be followed after Ospho and before primer. He has also stored clean metal for a couple of months in Ospho/wipedown for a couple of months before prepping and primering.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2019
  10. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 3,518

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    I have used 3M brand rust converter as well as a few others of the same type , thin as water goes on in a milky white dries black . Not one issue when used as directed . Do not clean the parts to bare metal . Just remove the flakes and brush it on . I need a vat large enough to submerse my complete OT Power Wagon . That is the biggest fight , keeping it alive is to bust the rust , Fred Flinstone would be proud to cruise in this beast .
     
  11. oliver westlund
    Joined: Dec 19, 2018
    Posts: 2,352

    oliver westlund
    Member

    ive used ospho, works great, i use por15 or zero rust over it. zero rust can be painted over, thats its big plus! i used that stuff frank from american pickers endorses, works pretty good i suppose, fact is white vinegar and water does the exact same thing and costs nothing. after a lot of different trials i still typically wire brush what i can, spray on ospho then paint, holds up the best from my point of view
     
  12. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 8,661

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    I'll be the odd man out. Years ago I had a nice Caprice, factory 427. The vinyl top in this before photo had lumps in it from rust underneath. I stripped the top off and treated the rust spots with a converter, went on white as I recall and turned green then black. Prepped, primed and repainted the whole car, leaving the vinyl top off. Within a year all those little rust spots had caused the fresh paint to bubble. No more converters for me, blast, acid, whatever it takes to get to clean metal.

    Caprice.jpg
     
    RMR&C likes this.
  13. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,208

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    My useless opinion: I hate rust converters. Never use them. Either remove the rust completely, or, in places you can't, cover with a rust proofing paint. like POR-15 or Master Series. These are pretty much relegated to floors, trunks, backsides of panels, and undercarriages, if total rust removal is difficult.
    Recently I tried Krud Kutter rust remover, from Walmart, of all places! Worked great! tried it next to EvapoRust, and tit blew it away. Overnight, just about every spec of surface rust was gone on a completely rusted roof (not rotted through, or heavy rust). Used to use Metal Prep or Picklex, and scrub the rust for hours to get rid of it all. Krud Kutter is my new favorite!
     
  14. Darin Younce
    Joined: May 8, 2019
    Posts: 589

    Darin Younce

    A bit of an update. I mentioned I had used some por 15 years ago but never kept anything long enough to see if it held up. Recently I went to my nieces for Easter and while there I saw this old anvil. I asked her husband If he would sell it. He said sure and I bought it for 20 bucks . After I bought it he casually mentioned he found it at a house they lived in and I had previously rented from my bro when we first moved here from Ky . Well I then looked at it a bit closer and realized I had bought my own anvil. ( Yep , I know) any way I noticed 2 things in the anvil. One was a very faint dab of ford tractor blue and a larger dab of a thicker and more noticable black paint. I am sure the blue is from me painting 3 or 4 ford 3000's back years ago and perhaps the black is a dab of por 15. If so then I would have to say it has held up pretty good.
     
  15. Darin Younce
    Joined: May 8, 2019
    Posts: 589

    Darin Younce

    LONG POST. Question concerning por 15 and omni urethane. Am working on a 41 cadillac that has a lot of surface rust underneath on floor pan Mostly on outer edges under running boards but also other areas. Some of the outer areas are a bit crusty but solid except about a total of 4 inches combined in the part that is vertical ( there is an area right under the running boards that turns down with a verticle area of about 3 or so inches then makes a 90 degree back to level) I scrubbed, sanded scraped you name it and now have a workable surface for the por15. I bought a quart locally that was semi gloss because I dont want a shiny finish. The por 15 was in my opinion too thick strait out of the can, almost like bitter milk. Having used por 15 about 16 years ago I sorta remembered it being thinner SO i was a bit concerned if this stuff had been exposed to air which is a big no no. So I went to Cola Sc and found a place that sold por 15 but all they had was the gloss. I bought it and decided to get some omni urethane to tpp coat in a flatter finish . I asked for a chassis black that was sorta flat but not all out flat , you know , like on most modern cars. I got home sprayed the por 15 on the front suspension area and waited for the time recommended by a por15 tech( yes I called por15 and confirmed it was ok to top coat por 15 with the omni) I then sprayed the omni and after a couple hours and it was dry ( not fully cured but dry to touch it was way too shiny. Either the guy at the store misunderstood or mixed it a bit too shiney. I should have done a test shot but I didnt so do you guys think I can re shoot this morning ( about 13 or 14 hours since last top coat) with a new batch of urethane (mixed and confirmed to be what I want )without rescuffing everything? Or do you know of any sort of primer or adhesion promoter that can be applied then reshoot . I dont mind having to re scuff but it is a pita with all the different parts on the suspension. I know the omni has a pretty large window Seems like it is 6 hours.then at 16 it is fully cured or something like that ( dont have paper in front of me right now) any thoughts.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2019
  16. SS327
    Joined: Sep 11, 2017
    Posts: 2,463

    SS327

    Scuff then reshoot, sure beats it peeling off in sheets.

    Denny
     
  17. I used a rust converter product from Mar-Hyde . It came in spray bomb or can. It was thin - like water but it turned a rusty surface to this black, hard coating. I would knock off loose scale and rolled this product on with a small roller. Then top coat with primer and paint or just paint. I used it in areas like bottom side of the floor boards, inside the quarter panels and roof, etc. Has held up perfectly for close to 20 years- no issues


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  18. boltupal
    Joined: Dec 27, 2010
    Posts: 293

    boltupal
    Member
    from western ny

    Dont be so gullible , you can't change "rust " back into mild steel.
     
  19. Darin Younce
    Joined: May 8, 2019
    Posts: 589

    Darin Younce

    Done , took a while but I know its right.
     
  20. Darin Younce
    Joined: May 8, 2019
    Posts: 589

    Darin Younce

    Btw , corn starch will flatten paint . Sounds crazy but info came from a paint rep.
     
  21. Darin Younce
    Joined: May 8, 2019
    Posts: 589

    Darin Younce

    Must
    Looked for post saying " rust back to mild steel" and can't find it.
     
  22. Sandgroper
    Joined: Jan 20, 2019
    Posts: 307

    Sandgroper
    Member

    IMG_0022.JPG IMG_0023.JPG IMG_0063.JPG IMG_0064.JPG IMG_0090.JPG IMG_0091.JPG I use a product called Rainex, it's a rust converter and stain remover. Sand as much as the rust off as possible then repair. Use rainex to kill any left over rust then sand again and prime. Seems to kill the rust and it doesn't come back.
     

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