So I am trying to save this old man from fading away into oblivion... from what I have been told it ran probably early 1960's in Southern tier of New York State or Northern PA area...be that as it may...the current rear suspension is a mess...I would like to bring it back into a drive able status (on the street drive able)...the existing suspension is parallel leaf springs mounted out board on the frame rails...rear shackles are jacking bolts...old tube shocks mounted to the side of the leaf springs...kinda scary but it is what is...I have been looking around at my options...I would like to keep it looking like a race car from back in the day (this one still has a tow bar on the front bumper) but a little safer rear suspension set up would be optimal...I like the low look that is has but their methods from back in the day have me wondering what would be a better way to make it run down the road...so fellow HAMB folks...I need some insight as to which way to go.... thanks in advance....
Chassis Engineering parallel rear spring kit. Used a lot of them when I was building 35/40 chassis with good success.
I used the Chassis Engineering rear kit on my 1939 Convertible and my '40 sedan, I couldn't ask for a better ridding after market rear suspension. HRP
I used a Chassis Engineering rear spring kit in my 48 Chevy, rides like a 3/4 ton truck, CE told me to remove the second from the bottom leaf. Car still rides rough over a big bump. My one friend used a Weedeater rear spring kit on his 48 Ford and it rode like a Cadillac over railroad tracks. Maybe I wasn't lucky.
That's the perfect candidate for a tribute to your favorite stock car driver. I would have to turn that into a tribute to my childhood racing hero, dirt track ace and later 2-time NASCAR National Late-Model Sportsman Champion, L. D. Ottinger. It would carry the Black #2.
If you want it low, check with https://www.weedetrstreetrod.com/ , he is a member and has well engineered products. The Chassis Engineering setup requires lowering blocks, Dale's does not. That's one cool race car !
I dont trust any of the workmanship on this old rig...they hooked the shocks to the side of the leaf springs...that is scary for sure...
One thing about my use of CE rear spring kits. My first experience was with a 40 sedan which rode great. Then I started using them on my repro 35-40 chassis which were considerably heavier than a stock frame and I always used the lighter spring pak. I never had any customer complaints about the ride.As to lowering blocks I can't address that.
I have used both CE and weedetr on 40 builds -both work well but CE does need blocks. Weedetr with reversed eyes do not. Also many do not center rear wheel in wheel well-too far forward-usually 1/2" to 3/4"-looks incorrect.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/my-40-ford-pickup-build.527407/ Research this thread. It's a pickup build, but the same rear springs he uses will work on your coupe. He uses a very nice rear spring package and install. clean and easy.
Here's more info including a link to a dedicated thread he made to the rear suspension installation : For the rear suspension I like to use the front springs and hangers off of the 49 to 54 Chevy pickups. I have used this system on several of my 40 builds. The rear end is a Mavrick 8" and will be running 3.40 gears. I have a tear drop trailer I tow and sometimes I need a little extra support when loaded for traveling. I put these air bag assists on I had lying around. Here is a thred I did on this complete spring and hanger install. Low Buck rear springs for 35-40 Fords http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=557363
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