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Projects 1941 Chevy Sedan Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Voh, May 8, 2011.

  1. Christopher Aos
    Joined: Jul 6, 2017
    Posts: 3

    Christopher Aos

    How did you remove the rad mount? Mine seemed integral to the crossmember.

     
  2. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    It is integral to the stock crossmember. I don't have a stock one under it any more. Have a Chassis Engineering Inc crossmember.


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  3. Christopher Aos
    Joined: Jul 6, 2017
    Posts: 3

    Christopher Aos

    Ok, that's what I thought. I'm going the same route with mine so it won't end up being an issue.
     
  4. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    No. But you need to build or buy a new crossmember for it. Chassis has that as well. Simple and clean install.


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  5. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    So I have run into an issue with the steering column. What are my options for steering u-joints? Any suggestions?
    THX
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    Finally something worthy of posting on. As with the rear fenders on this car, the fronts needed a bunch of work, including the mounting flange at the cowl. Got the drivers side close over the weekend.
     

    Attached Files:

    Shadow Creek likes this.
  7. a4t1rat
    Joined: Oct 6, 2008
    Posts: 52

    a4t1rat
    Member
    from Utah

    Looks good, keep it going.
     
  8. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    So i have made some more progress. Was able to get the Chassis Engineering Inc pedal mount installed. The brake pedal is just fine, but the clutch is going to need some work. Any suggestions as to how best connect to the clutch fork?
    IMG_4988.JPG IMG_4989.JPG IMG_4990.JPG

    As you can see, the end of the fork is not over in line with the pedal.

    I have looked at the use of a Z-bar, but where the ball is on the block looks like it will be right in the way of the column. Can i just extend the clutch fork?

    Can I make a longer rod similar to factory, with a little more offset?

    View attachment 3916879

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  9. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

  10. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    I messed around with it yesterday ad built an offset rod for the clutch linkage. Used a heim joint at the pedal and run the rod through the clutch fork. I have a rocker ball in the mail, and will replace the flat washer when it gets in. it seems to work pretty well from a motion standpoint. Now to get some basic wiring on it so that I can test start it. IMG_5004[1].JPG
     
  11. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    Was able to the the CPP column saver in and the steering all connected.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


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  12. My Dad used a piece of chain for the clutch rod on his 40 Chevy. Been on there over 50 years, and still working.
     
  13. burger
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 2,372

    burger
    Member

    Thanks for sharing these pictures. We have very similar builds. In my 41, I'm using the same CPP column kit and CE crossmember. Did you install a hiem joint to support the steering shaft?


    Thanks,
    Ed
     
  14. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    I have pictures of your car in front of the storage unit saved for reference. I didn't realize it was yours. To your question, I bought the heim but didn't use it. I read somewhere that if you use (3) ujoints, you need the heim. I was able to make it work with just the 2 of them. I did leave the shaft in the column longer, so I think that helps. A bit of advice while its all apart, clearance the motor mount a little bit. Its very close there. Also you might want to put on the ujoint at the R&P, as it BARELY clears. When mine comes back apart, I am going to clearance both these areas.
     
  15. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

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  16. burger
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 2,372

    burger
    Member

    Thanks for the reply! I see how a longer shaft in the steering column would make all the difference. Mine's already cut though, so it looks like I'm stuck with three u-joints and a support heim! What have you figured out for exhaust? I see ram horns in your pictures. How well do those work out?

    Ed
     
  17. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    I have not made it to the exhaust part, although I think it will work. It will be tight on the drivers side, but I think it can be massaged around it well enough. I am on the hunt for the radiator now. My original was basically shot, with the sides falling off and leaks.
     
  18. burger
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 2,372

    burger
    Member

    I haven't purchased a radiator yet, but my plan is to buy an aluminum one off eBay and spray it with black radiator paint from Eastwood. A buddy has used Champion brand radiators from eBay with good results, so I will probably use them as well.

    What transmission crossmember are you using?
     
  19. burger
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 2,372

    burger
    Member

    Btw, I haven't worked on my Chevy in about six years. Along the way a '68 GTO 4-speed convertible fell into my lap and I've focused on that instead. It's been off the road since '84 and needed everything. Last winter I put together a hairy 455 and have spent the summer working out the kinks and doing burnouts.
     
  20. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    My transmission crossmember is the stock one, that I cut out and built a bolt in section for. Once i pull the body i place to tidy it up a little more.


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  21. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    I bet that 455 is wicked! I tried to buy a 1969 firebird in high school with a 455, but Dad wouldn’t let me. “Too much motor for the car” he said. LoL


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  22. burger
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 2,372

    burger
    Member

    I may have been better off hacking up the stock crossmember. I bought a nice looking CNC fabricated one from a HAMBer, but he's since stopped making them. It's hella stout, but I haven't been able to get the brake pedal arm to line up with the factory holes in the floorboard. No rust so I'd hate to cut them up! I think it might be the cheap eBay brake booster and bracket kit though. One thing that I've learned about these Chevs is that Chassis Engineering makes the best upgrade parts. They're a little more pricey, but they fit and work, so you get what you pay for. I bought the CE parts to replace the eBay crap, but haven't installed them yet. Maybe this winter.

    The 455 in my GTO is absurd. I've mostly lived a life of mild small blocks and cruisers, so this is new to me. The car gets sideways at will and even rolling down the road in first or second you need to be ginger with the gas pedal lest you accidentally get the rear end happy. Brutal is a good word to describe it. Sounds better than anything I've ever owned. Fwiw, factory heads ported by Butler Performance, roller cam to Butler spec, forged pistons, fancy rods, aftermarket crank, full roller rockers, the whole bit.
     
  23. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    My wife is a big fan of the nova family. ‘68 in particular, so i keep an eye out. Some day we will have a big motor car. LoL.


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  24. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    Well, after some time i finally decided on a radiator for the '41. I wanted one that had some resemblance of the original, so i used a stamped top style. couple custom brackets and its in the car.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  25. burger
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 2,372

    burger
    Member

    Are you planning to paint the radiator black?
     
  26. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    Yes. That should help it blend in a little more.


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  27. Shadow Creek
    Joined: May 14, 2014
    Posts: 301

    Shadow Creek
    Member

    Any details on the radiator manufacturer? I have a 39 and am in the market for a radiator and I really like the looks of that one
     
  28. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    It’s a Griffin radiator, universal, that i found on eBay. I believe it’s a 16”x26” size. Like $285, made in the USA.


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  29. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    So I have been making some slow progress on the ‘41. The most noticeable is welding on and patching up the rear fenders.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  30. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,027

    Voh
    Member

    Last night i was able to form the passenger side fender skirt. Made the hammer forms this weekend. Did a practice piece and had to soften the radius on the one edge, but turned out well i think. It’s just shaped, not yet fitted to the fender profile.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


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