What oil to use in a ford flathead???

Motor with no filter or a bypass filter, particularly one that's well seasoned = no detergent oils.

 

with valvoline vr how many miles can you go on a oil change? also should ii use 20-50?

 

any diesel oil that say "new formula" means no zinc (which is all of them) pennzoil vr has it and i used 20/50.

 

According to Valvoline, you can go 3000 miles. 20/50 is what I use in my 50 Ford Flathead and both my Studebaker flathead 6's.

 

Okay sounds good I will pick up some vr 20-50 when I change my oil

 

Useful information!

 

castrol hd30 and hd40 have zinc still, valvoline vr1 racing has zinc, brad penn.

 

New formula means the manufacturer has gone from 1400 ppm to 1200 ppm of zinc. There are other additives to make up for it. This is true for rotella anyways. I read an article on this from a shell rep. He claims it will be around for another 2-3 years for sure. I run esso HD 30 detergent with a small bottle of flat tappet cam break in oil.

 

I sent castrol a email and their answer was they have released a castrol syntec 20/50 that says for classic car use on the back of the bottle........if you want a copy of the email pm me and I will forward I cant load it on here

 

...which is more than enough - especially for a flathead w/low spring pressures

 

Here's some info from the two manufacturers who seem to be dialed in to the needs of rodders who do not wish to convert to synthetic oil...for whatever reason.

My flathead is well used but still sound and would not take well to high detergent oil...too dirty inside.

The other reason is that zinc deposits are stripped off the parts by high detergent oil, just like sludge deposits.

So...in order to build up a protective layer of zinc you must use a low detergent-type oil. At least that's the way I understand the situation.

Here's some very interesting information on old cars and ZDDP:

From the Valvoline website: http://www.valvoline.com/racing/index.asp

Consumer Solutions ​

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There are high-zinc engine oils available to meet this need. It is important to note, however, that the entire additive package still needs to be balanced for best performance. For example, engine oil with a high zinc level but low detergent may not perform over a drain interval of 3,000 miles or longer. ​

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Valvoline offers two solutions to the zinc issue ​

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Valvoline Racing VR1: 75% higher zinc than SM engine oil with a balanced additive package designed to work in both racing and street-legal applications. This product will protect older style push-rod and flat tappet engines. Valvoline provides this product in both multi and mono viscosity grades: SAE 20W-50 (part vv211), straight SAE 50 (part vv235), SAE 10W-30 (part vv205), SAE 30(part vv223), SAE 40 (part vv229), and SAE 60 (part vv241)
​

</DIR></DIR>[/FONT][/FONT]From the Brad Penn website: http://www.bradpennracing.com/default.asp

The Brad Penn<SUP>®</SUP> Penn Grade 1<SUP>®</SUP> High Performance Oils contain the higher level of anti-wear (ZDDP &#8211; zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) and enhanced film strength so critical to proper high performance engine protection. The Penn-Grade 1<SUP>®</SUP> oils &#8220;typical&#8221; 1,500 ppm Zinc (Zn) and 1340-1400 ppm Phosphorus (P) content provide the needed anti-wear protection to critical engine parts, such as piston/cylinder walls, roller cams under heavy valve spring pressure and especially those that employ a solid &#8220;flat tappet&#8221; type system. As important as the chemistry is to the Penn-Grade 1<SUP>®</SUP> oils, it is by no means the whole story. The unique base oil cut used to refine the Penn-Grade 1<SUP>®</SUP> High Performance Oils maintain a tremendous affinity to metal surfaces. This naturally occurring &#8220;metal wetting&#8221; characteristic enables the oil to stay put on your highly stressed engines and makes the Penn-Grade 1<SUP>®</SUP> High Performance Oil resist slinging for an extended period of time. Also, rest assured in knowing that the Penn-Grade 1<SUP>®</SUP> High Performance Oils are 100% Made in the USA.
The Brad Penn<SUP>®</SUP> Penn Grade 1<SUP>®</SUP> High Performance Oils contain the higher level of anti-wear (ZDDP &#8211; zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) and enhanced film strength so critical to proper high performance engine protection. The Penn-Grade 1<SUP>®</SUP> oils &#8220;typical&#8221; 1,500 ppm Zinc (Zn) and 1340-1400 ppm Phosphorus (P) content provide the needed anti-wear protection to critical engine parts, such as piston/cylinder walls, roller cams under heavy valve spring pressure and especially those that employ a solid &#8220;flat tappet&#8221; type system. As important as the chemistry is to the Penn-Grade 1<SUP>®</SUP> oils, it is by no means the whole story. The unique base oil cut used to refine the Penn-Grade 1<SUP>®</SUP> High Performance Oils maintain a tremendous affinity to metal surfaces. This naturally occurring &#8220;metal wetting&#8221; characteristic enables the oil to stay put on your highly stressed engines and makes the Penn-Grade 1<SUP>®</SUP> High Performance Oil resist slinging for an extended period of time. Also, rest assured in knowing that the Penn-Grade 1<SUP>®</SUP> High Performance Oils are 100% Made in the USA.

Just my $.02 on the subject.

 

from what i understand the zinc additive is very important...in addition with unleaded gas...it is a good idea to add marvel mystery oil to ones gasoline..i guess the valve seats can burn up without it.i know this old timer who has a vacuum draw marvel mystery oil canister that draws the marvel into the carb...pretty coll vintage set up.he got it a swap meet anyone know if they could still be purtcshed somewhere

 

The sooner that folks start using BradPenn, the better off they'll be. It's the last oil left in the country still made from 100% PA-grade crude oil. It's the old Kendall refinery in Bradford PA, now owned by American Refining ... and still most of the same guys who made the Kendall. Kendall used to be great oil! If you do use BradPenn, make sure you get the PENNGRADE1 line, it's the racing oil. The regular BradPenn is made for the road with the new specs. www.BradPennRacing.com

There are also many ZDDP (zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate) additives on the market. One of particular note is Howards Cams' MAX ZPM, which has moly additives along with the ZDDP. It can be found at www.CompetitionProducts.com

All oils meant for road use have the lower Zinc levels, even the big diesel oils such as Rotella, Delo, Valvoline etc... another great EPA mandate. Supposedly to lower emissions, but I suspect done to get older vehicles off the road by wiping out the motors... like we weren't going to adjust.

 

Here's one:
http://www.thehotrodcompany.com/shopnow/show_item.asp?product_id=st1001

And Brad Penn:
http://www.thehotrodcompany.com/shopnow/show_item.asp?product_id=2050

 

My engine builder said Joe Gibb"s

 

Ugghh, lot's of bad info in this old thread. We've kicked this topic around several times since this thread was last posted back in 2009. FYI, typical flatheads don't need anything special, the common oil available from 1932 to 1953 had no more zinc anti-wear in it than modern oils do. If you have something with increased lift and spring pressures you might need additional zinc, but just a good running old flathead will be fine on modern oil.

Here's a good article describing the situation for the era of flathead Ford V8's, note this sentence: "In the mid 1950s, Chrysler and Oldsmobile engaged in a horsepower race using high-lift camshafts, and both experienced camshaft scuffing and wear problems. These problems were overcome by better metallurgy for camshafts and lifters, phosphating the camshaft and increasing the level of ZDP to 0.08 percent." .08 percent = 800ppm. That's typical for most modern engine oils.

https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restoration/new_oil_and_old_cars

If you want better oil without buying something special, just use a heavy duty diesel engine oil that is licensed for API CJ-4 or CK-4, and is NOT licensed for SN, i.e. not dual licensed for HDDEO and PCMO, and you'll get about 1200 ppm of zinc. I doubt there's many (any?) flatheads that need more zinc than that. You'll also get great detergency protection, anti foam and anti-oxidation protection. Common viscosity grades are 10W-30 & 15W-40, chose one depending on the climate you drive in. Areas like the southwest with a lot of high temps consistently over 100F, use 15W-40. Other areas with temps more common from freezing to high 90's 10W-30 should be OK. Or, if the engine is low on oil pressure due to age, go with the higher visc grade.

 

In the 50s it was the cheapest heaviest you could find.

 

What engine oil should I use in this tired beast?
I bought a 49 Ford convertible Flathead 8BA unseen except for the appraisal, couldn't be any surprises there right?
Except annoying tapping valves w/back pressure from the oil filler tube..
Good news, no oil floating in radiator or coolant in the oil.
Has new plugs, wires and 6V Flamethrower ignition, car and fuel pump.
Engine idle pressure is 20lbs, It does not over heat...yet.
The previous owner installed a aluminum radiator, to keep it from overheating?? Tip off I missed..

 

Valvoline VR1 20/50 in both my flatheads.

 

I read up on several of these oil type threads. Other than break-in lube etc, I'm not too concerned. I probably won't even run a filter unless I can find an Aero Pure Oil housing. I'll just use what I use in all my other vehicles - Mobile 1 synthetic.

 

I like running oil in my flathead that matches the color of the paint on my garage floor. Looks nicer.

I run 20/50 Valvoline racing and no filter.

 

I'd use a Castrol, Pennzoil, Valvoline or any other shelf 10w-30 that's on sale. What do you have, around 50-60 lbs. seat pressure on your valve springs?

 

Shell Rottella 15-40 as prescribed
By my flathead Doctor ,as needed

 

Amsoil 10-40 Z-rod. I use this because it has tons of zinc in it and it’s made for old engines. It’s perfect. And it doesn’t need any additives


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