Projects Proper '32 Pickup build thread??

Subscribed!

 

So, the fine folks at Wilcap responded quickly saying that some of the mid fifties Cadillac engines had an odd bolt spacing on the crank flange and apparently I have one! I was sent a return label to ship back the spacer and flywheel and was told I'd soon receive the correct parts. I like that kind of customer service!
In 10 days or so I had a new spacer and flywheel that looked to have correct bolt hole spacing but still no hole for the crank pin! I emailed Wilcap and they said to just remove the pin. After pondering that for a while I decided that I didn't want to disassemble the engine in order to press out the pin and also wondered if it'd affect the balance? I took some careful measurements and took the spacer to the machine shop and had a blind hole bored for the pin. Now everything fits perfect!
The instructions say that the adapter plate to flywheel face should measure between 3/4"-7/8" and it is spot on! Yay!

 

The kit came with studs which I like to fit the transmission. Time to get this sucker mocked up!

 

I went ahead and bolted on the Mopar mini starter to check the fit to the adapter and the chassis once the engine was in place. Picked up the engine and set it into place to find the correct position. Once bolted up to the trans (fit perfect!) I moved everything forward to get the desired radiator to fan clearance and saw trouble right away. With the carb surface level the fan actually hit the lower radiator hose outlet and there would be no possibility I could plumb up the auto trans lines. I picked up the engine and now have about 5/8" from fan tip to radiator outlet but trans cooler ports are still blocked not to mention the carb surface is half bubble off level. I raised the tail of the trans as much as possible (about 1/2") and that helped some but I think the stock fan needs to go away and go electric. The stock fan just sits too low on the radiator.

 

Very pleased with the way the Caddy engine fits this chassis. It looks like using the stock cast iron exhaust manifolds there will be adequate clearance to the hood sides.

 

Oh, got the wheels painted too. Cadillac blue with '48 Ford caps.

 

Love the color and wheel combo. Really nice build.

 

Good choice on the wheel color and caps.

 

..why not run your trans cooler along side the trans on the frame rail, easier and they work great there in my experience...

 

Or use 90 degree fittings at the radiator....

 

That's an option for sure. I was just expecting to use the built it cooler in the radiator.
Anybody have any good arguments on mechanical vs. electric fan?

 

1 Electric looks out of place. 2 Everything I've used electric (fans and fuel pumps) got replaced by mechanical and has out performed in duty and longevity.

 

Anybody have any good arguments on mechanical vs. electric fan?

ELECTRIC.wins for me compact and powerfull only cools when you need it important in cooler climates.buying quality electrical products like SPAL should be reliable and last. slim black fan mounted on a black rad is hardly noticed plus if you mount it high up on the rad you can cool the hottest water.mech fan in the photo looks to be very low on the rad

 

^^^^^
Another issue for me going electric. "Room". Yes there are slim units, but when not modifying firewalls or stretch nose isn't an option. Mechanical will take up less space.

 

Yes nunattax, although the stock fan is large (18"), it really only covers the bottom 2/3 of the radiator which is a concern. For this rod I was hoping to use the mechanical however to get the engine as far forward as possible as Johnny Gee points out.
If using the stock fan I have had folks suggest to set the blades anywhere from 3/8" -1" from the radiator core. right now I'm at about 3/4".

 

Great project , would you happen to have an extra firewall to sell?

 

Thanks! At some point yes, probably. I need to get a little further along however before I let my "spare" go.

 

Progress?

 

Yes, it's been over a year and there has been progress but not nearly as much as I'd like. Sound familiar? I have made much progress on the '64 falcon and it will soon be back on the road hopefully. Anyway, back to the truck!
It took 8 months for the back-ordered main bearings for the Caddy 331 to come in! Once everything was mocked up and looked good the motor mounts were welded in and the engine and trans now rests comfortably in the chassis. I installed the 3.70 Posi rear diff and set the cab and bed up on the chassis. Next on thre to-do list is figuring out exact;y where the cab/body mount holes go. The frame is '32 Brookeville with Model A front crossmember. The cab is '33 which has different mounts than a '32 because of the deeper firewall. What I'm trying to figure out now is what is the best way to figure out exactly where everything goes. It wouldn't be as important if I was planning to go fenderless but I plan to to run full fenders and full hood. The frame was ordered with NO mounting holes because I knew they wouldn't be right for a '33 cab. anyway.

 

Man I like your truck. I’m building a ‘33 too but on a ‘33 frame and with a Nailhead Buick and TH400. I did what you’ve done, mount the radiator and grille and work back from there with the fan 3/4” from the radiator. There are quite a few GM fans of different pitch and diameter. I bought a few at the swap meets so I’d have some to experiment with. You can always elongate or redrill the fan mounting holes to fit the Cad water pump. I hate the look and sound of an old hot rod with an electric fan. And I like to see a chrome mechanical fan spinning behind the radiator.
I removed my ‘33 firewall and moved the whole thing back 2” and welded it back in. Looks stock but has 2” more engine room without a big recess. Like you I’m working multiple projects simultaneously so progress is sort of on and off but it’s moving forward.
Keep up the good work.


Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Bumping for updates.....

Sent from my SM-A520F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app